Surewood Shaft test kit inbound, now what?

[Zbearclaw]

I kinda know what I need, but what is the best resource for one stop shopping to learn to make arrows.

I got a test kit starting at #80-85 for my #60 PSA coming out today, but how best to figure which spine I need a bunch of?

Also if there is a dvd that answers all my questions let me know.  Thanks guys

[snag]

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=098658#000002  

This is a great calculator if you put the right info. in you will get very close. If your bow is cut to center you might have the correct spine weight already. That is depending on what tip weight you want to shoot. I shot a 55#@28" recurve that is cut to center and it loves 80#-85#'s with 145-160gr tips.

[Zbearclaw]

I don't have any glue on's so I will be ordering some VPA Terminators as soon as I am sure what weight.  

Setting up carbon's is something I've been doing a long time, but I have never fired a wood arrow...

Lookin forward to changing out my ammo so I can "bring tha wood" to them!

Thanks Snag

[snag]

"Wood is good" is my motto! Enjoy.

[NoCams]

When the test kit arrives mount your point of choice, ( all the same ). Trim them to the length you normally shoot and start bareshaft tuning. If you are righty and the arrow comes off the bow tailing to the left then it is weak, go up a spine group and shoot again. You will find one spine group that shoot better than others. You want to wind up ever so slightly weak and by the time you add feathers you will be dead on. You must hold good form and consistent release to bareshaft. Once you think you have the correct spine group keep shooting it to confirm. If you can consistently shoot a bareshaft at 25 yds getting good flight then you are done. record your brace height and nock height for reference and maintain them. We shoot a bareshaft with our fletched shafts during practice to confirm tune of the equipment and the monkey pulling the string !

[Zbearclaw]

Good to know, thanks!

Does wood spine respond as aggressively to arrow length changes as carbon?

[NoCams]

Emphatic NO ! Carbons can get very stiff quick once you get close. I trim 1/4" at a time on carbons when I get close.

Just to add to my post yesterday too..... If you get your bareshaft testing complete and one spine is too stiff and one to weak you can fine tune with length or weight. Since we try to shoot the same weight head all the time I would simply cut my finish dozen either 1/2" longer or shorter depending if I needed to be a tad weaker or stiffer than my test kit spine group that was close. That will give you the 2-4 lbs of fine tuning needed to be ever so slightly weak. If you do not want to go that route you might fine tune with head weight, but with woodies you are kinda limited from 125-160 which is not much. And I can tell you right now 40 grains will change a woodie enough to see, but won't budge a carbon hardly. It usually takes at least 100gr change to effect a carbon. JMHO

[snag]

I have used Stu's calculator and found that if I cut my shafts 1/2" longer than it recommends I can then bare shaft them down from there. I usually cut 1/4" off at a time.