Tapering Accurately with Disc Sander

[twostrings]

Hey all, I have been having a lot of fun attempting to make my first dozen wooden arrows. One question I have for anyone with experience with this is how can I accurately gauge the length of both the nock and point tapers? Does anyone know the internal lengths of nocks and field points? I know that if I used the pencil sharpener type tapering tool, then I wouldn't have this problem. However, I am using the guide block and a disc sander.

I have a feeling that part  of my issue is an equipment problem (there is a little wobble in my disc sander), but even still, I have no idea how long to go.

Thanks!
mh

[Stumpkiller]

I use a 3/4" point taper and it works with about anything that doesn't use an insert blade.

The nock I take down until only 1/16" of flat (end of the shaft) remains.

 

 

[Bjorn]

That is the set up what I use without the metal rod at the front, no idea about any lengths, just practice and eyeball, pretty soon it is automatic. Call it 'instinctive tapering'.

[JamesV]

My tapering jig is home made and has a stop. You night adapt yours after you get the proper legenth. I tried eyeballing mine, guess my eye isn't that accurate.

 

 

[LookMomNoSights]

What Bjorn said.....
I just eyeball.   What I also do,  is have a point and nock handy in case I want to check as I go....helps sometimes!  But once you crank out a couple dozen or so,  you get a natural feel for what ya gotta do and how deep...and how much pressure....and how you spin the shaft.  Its Fun!  I love grinding my tapers!  You notice that some come out more consistant than others in regards to the nice level taper ring at the widest part of the taper?!  Those are the straighter ones! Givem' broadheads!  

[Jack Skinner]

I use the block from 3rivers and my disc sander also. I took a short piece of shaft and made slow adjustments with a piece of leftover block for a stop. I would taper then test with point and or nock which ever I was adjusting at the time. When my taper fit nock/point the way I wannted I stopped on my gauge shaft. Now all I have to do is clamp my block in the same place on the sander, lay my gauge shaft with taper in block and then adjust the stop up to the end of the taper. Good to go. I do all of one taper then just rotate and clamp block use gauge shaft adjust stop block and go again for other taper. Hope that makes sense.