waterbase-poly

[3Feathers]

Anybody use waterbase poly for woodies?If so how do they hold up?If not what do you prefer??

[Molson]

I've used it for years and it works great.  Its not as tough as regular poly but its plenty tough enough.  The ease of application and cleanup make up for a little loss in durability.

[tradlongbow]

I've been using it for about a year,it works great and no smell. I had to have Ace hardware special order the Miniwax poly waterbase.

Darren

[Bjorn]

I have used it forever and am not about to switch. Raptor Archery carries it.........Raptor Dip. No smell.
I am sure there is a tougher dip but that's belt over suspenders as far as I am concerned.

[Rob DiStefano]

i've tried several brands of water based polyu, the last was min-wax (wipe-on).  

imo, for me, the stuff is in no way as good as any resin based polyu - it doesn't cover or prep or gloss well at all.  yuk.

for me, there's a huge difference in application. resin based min-wax GLOSS wipe-on polyu goes on like slick glass, whereas the water based version just doesn't, it drags.  it took me at least double the amount of water based coats as with resin based coats to get an acceptable level of finish thickness and protection ... and gloss level.

three coats of resin based and a wood shaft looks and feels real nice ... add the fourth coat and it's just gorgeous.  with water based, EIGHT coats down the road just to make the shaft wood look decent.  just my experience with the stuff.

while there is no great stink with water based, the smell level of wiped-on resin based polyu is very low, low enuf not to bother the bloodhound nose of my wife.

spraying is a totally different story with resin based finishes - once atomized, the stink increases and lingers forever.  wiping on, not a problem at all for me.

no brainer there - i'm sticking with good ol' resin based min-wax gloss wipe-on polyu.  

i might add - as a luthier i've tried all manner of water based finishes for guitar wood, and spent a small fortune in doing water based lacquer spraying - same deal for me, just nowhere as good as those nasty resin based finishes for both application and final results.  ymmv.

[Molson]

Rob brings up a good point about the application.  I use a dip tube when I use water-based poly.  Two coats, crest, then a top coat and I'm done.  I don't like it at all when wiped on.

[Bowspirit]

Every time I use Minwax water poly, I regret it. Not as tough or long lasting, and doesn't resist target burn nearly as well. Next time, I'm going with good old polyu...

[bigbadjon]

I've been using an Ace branded water based poly and can give a good opinion. The water based applies fine as a dip but I have trouble getting consistancy from wiping. It is pretty tough, but it does show target burn and is not rock hard. The its best properties are it does not discolor the cresting when used over opaque colors, no noxious odors, and it cleans up easily for the most part. However no water based product is as desirable as oil based. Oil based is harder, brighter, and more constitant. This is my opinion for paint as well.

[jhg]

When we talk about water based finishes, including polyurathanes, we are talking about huge variables in quality and ease of use one brand over another.You want a product that cross link molecularly and you may have to go beyond your homeowner grade finishes to find it.

Water based finishes are different, thats for sure. They require you to adjust how you apply them. If you insist on being able to following the same routine that you used for solvent finishes you will be frustrated and the results will be poor.

But its up to you if you are willing to adjust.
The finish can't do it for you.

Applied when understanding their traits and qualities, water based finishes (as long as you choose a very good one) will perform at least as well as solvent finishes. Todays formulations are a far cry from the crap that they came out with 10-15 years ago.

I might add that I am a professional woodworker/cabinet maker. If my finishes were not as beautiful or as tough as solvent finishes I would be out of business. Cross-linking water based finishes, though different to apply, look as good as any finish out there and have surpassed all standards for abrasion resistance, chemical resistance and scratch resistance set forth by the cabinet industry. These finishes are tough.

Joshua

[wapitimike1]

What would you use on your floors. The lick and stick it crowd of floor sanders love water base. For me the choise is oil only on arrows and floors!!

[cbCrow]

I tried the minwax water based on my last bunch of arrows, will never use it again. I put on 4 coats and had to recoat after maybe 100-150 shots into my foam target and d target. I'm with Wapiti back to tru-oil.

[steve schrank]

i use the 3 rivers brand and have not looked back it seems just as durable and no smell easy cleanup and can use indoors.it also is compatable with testers for cresting      

[jhg]

Originally posted by wapitimike1:
What would you use on your floors. The lick and stick it crowd of floor sanders love water base. For me the choise is oil only on arrows and floors!!

I can tell I am swimming up the current...

There is a floor guy here in denver that had the contract for a popular sports bar near Coors field. He more than doubled the wear times on the bar floors using water based over solvent based finishes. But again its what you use. I wouldn't want a lot of guys doing my floors (or anything else for that matter) given what they use and how poorly they apply it- either water born or solvent based.
Anyway, just keep an open mind everyone. You CAN get great results using the new finishes. Even on arrows. Ya just have to learn the ropes...