Help on what I am doing wrong!

[huntin_sparty]

I am only about 1 year into traditional and am a addicted but am the possibly the worst in setting them up.  I currently have 4 bows that from my "expert" set up have a lot of handshock and/or sound like a tuning fork!

I have read many set up posts here and on A&H Archery site and here is what I do.

1) adjust nock height by shooting until the arrow is a tad high high bare shaft.

2) Brace height I have recurves that are 58 to 62 inches long.  Tried from 6 1/2 to 9 inches by turning a couple of twists each time then shooting for arrow flight and feel.  I have been able to lessen the shock or twang but not eliminate like many say "dead in the hand", making it quiet or smooth.

3) On my take down and ILF I have messed with the tiller positive or negative with little effect.

The shock has caused some bow arm elbow issues that have required cortisone shots.

Bows
Great Plains Swift curve 58 inches 50# at 28(this one I traded for and with the old string after adjusting nock point was great.  Unfortunately I needed a new string and using the same settings havent got it close to how it shot).

Black Widow PSA 60 incher 51# @ 28 Got this new and couldnt get it not to vibrate in the hand.

Sky TDX 17 ILF recurve  60 incher 45 @28
this is the one I got the closest to little shock and noise.  But still has some.

2 Tracks Ambush 50@28 Got new and never got the vibrate or twang out of it!

Arrows
CE150s various weights from 475 grains to 580 grains

GT 55/75 weight from 525 to 600 grains

Trad only 500 weight from 450 grains to 550.

Shoot 3 under with a tab.

Sorry for the long post, but can anyone see any error in my method doing bare shaft like Adcock method?

Thanks, for any guidance or new insight!

[McDave]

Hand shock is less if you shoot with a slightly bent bow arm than if you shoot with a straight bow arm.  It is also less if you shoot with a heavier arrow rather than a lighter arrow.

I've also heard that it is less if you grip the bow a little tighter, but I'm reluctant to advise that because I find that I shoot more accurately if I grip the bow lightly.

A heavier bow should have less hand shock than a lighter bow.  So I'm surprised that you have hand shock with the BW PSA, as it's a fairly heavy bow and I've never experienced any hand shock with a BW PSA.

I would think you might experience less hand shock with a dacron string than with a fast flight string, since the dacron string has a little give in it and might cushion the shot some.  But I've also heard from people who shoot the new skinny strings, which have very little give at all, say they have less hand shock, which I don't understand, but that's what I've heard.

[Mike Vines]

The one of yours I shoot was an awesome shooter.  I don't remember which one it was, but I would have traded the bow I had at the time for it.

[highplains55]

huntin,9 inches is pretty high brace height,my bows seem to like around 7 1/2, try holding the bow with the pressure more around thumb and first finger,not so tight,to tight in palm puts torque on the string, try some hush puppies or bow hush,will silence the bow and reduce shock,lastly try some wood arrows,hex shafts or surewoods,hang in there!

[huntin_sparty]

Mike
It was the Great Plains that was a shooter until the string was fraying.  Replaced the string with a fast flight and set it up in the same specs as the old string but it shook like a bowl full of jello after the shot with the new string!  Ive got it better than that but not as sweet set up from the prior owner when we shot though!
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Andrew

[traditional beagle]

You might experiment with split finger also. When twisting the string to accomplish brace height there will be a height that your arrows are quieter coming off the shelf and flight will be best if using the right spine arrow. Your arrows are heavy enough concerning hand shock. Unless uning heavy points the GT 55/75 might be a little stiff. GT 35/55 should fly better. But again not doing much about hand shock. Silencer position on string can dampen string vibration,you might try 2 sets of string silencers spaced out maybe 6" down from tips and 2nd set down another 4" or so. I have had this help on a couple different set ups.

[Bjorn]

You have taken the first best step by enlisting the folks on this board.
I would pick one bow/arrow set up and get it perfect before moving on to the others-if at all.
You might consider joining an archery club in the area where you live, and maybe get a mentor to help reduce the learning curve. There is just too much 'marketing' going on with solutions through buying more stuff and not enough focus on making the existing stuff work.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by huntin_sparty:
Mike
It was the Great Plains that was a shooter until the string was fraying.  Replaced the string with a fast flight  

Well, there is definatly one of your problems.  Get rid of the fast flight.  In my opinion, it is not worth the couple FPS you gain from having it.

[Plumber]

stick with one bow at a time! bows are like a women it takes a little time to figure them out. when you find one you like stick with it. If you have one you just cant get along with git rid of it. having all new bows an you being new yourself it can become very problematic an furstating. unlist help from someone in your area go shoot with them get there help. sometimes it best to just sit down an do it in person. you have some real nice bows take the time to learn each one.

[highplains55]

bjorn has the right idea, the wool silencers are only $6 shipped though, enough for  three bows, i personally use fur.

[free2bow]

I wonder if your elbow is sensitive because of the issues it has and therefore the bows aren't really producing excessive shock... am not trying to be critical just thinking out loud

[Steelhead]

Sounds like you have tried.Your strings may not be the best for your bows possibly.

The perfect string of the right material can make a big difference with the right silencers in the right place.

Your arrows are not too light.I would lean toward 550 grains or so out of your bows.It would not hurt to try some real heavyweights though around 650 to 700 grains.A near perfectly tuned arrow to the bow can make a bow shoot nicer.

A shooters form can also make a big difference in a bows feel and performance.A steady bowarm,inline draw and a dynamic release with a good follow through will make any bow shoot sweeter with less noise and recoil.

Come by sometime and bring all your bows if you can.We can fart around and see if we cant get something tweaked a bit better.You can shoot my bows as well and see how you like them and compare them to your bows as far as feel and noise.I am in S.E MI.

Maybe when the weather warms up a bit.

Good luck!

[Swamp Yankee]

As already mentioned, I'd also suggest you pick one of those bows and work on it until it's right for you.  That Widow PSA is a pretty heavy riser bow that shouldn't have much, if any, "shock".  It will need a pair of good silencers (I look the wooly puff type) though to get that twang or high pitched vibration damped down.

[Whip]

I shoot split finger, but I did dabble with 3 undr for a time.  I remember that noise and vibration was noticably higher for me shooting 3 under, and while I didn't stick with it long enough to say it can't be corrected, I have heard other reports of noisy bows with that method.

Are your bows tillered to 3 under? (even tiller)

[Hud]

Agree with Bjorn, pick one bow and arrow setup to start, and it might help if it is the lightest bow.

When your getting started, it is easier to develop a correct style and form without to much effort, which is why a light bow is good to start with. Also, if you shoot at 10 ft. into a bale or backstop without a target, dots or animals. If you have one of the mfgr targets with dots or animals, cover it with a burlap sack.

Keep in mind, changing your form may produce a different result. It may be easier to learn shooting split finger and easier to tune.

Try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for string height and nocking point if available.
If not known, start about 7.5" brace ht. with a recurve, and 1/4" high nocking point. If you have a flemish string, shoot arrows at 10 ft. and raise the string about 5 twists and shoot again, The bow may sound better at a particular height. The range in brace height may be less than 1.0 inch, (as an example 7.0 to 8.0"). Stay within the range as suggested by the mfgr.  

While your doing this, shooting should be done without a target.

If the elbow hurts, stop and ice it. I have been shooting a lifetime, and have never had a sensitive elbow, so it is difficult to understand, what might cause such a problem. I would suggest, as others before me, try to find an experienced person (preferrably an instructor)to watch you shoot. Good luck and let us know how things are going.