Cuttin river cane

[Flyboy718]

Cut some cane last weekend...not sure if I am getting it at the right time and maturity...please advise!  I just cut the right size and then pulled the groups of stem/leaves off.  Is this right?

[JAG]

I cut it when I can find a good stand, the right size.

[Flyboy718]

Thanks...was just wondering if you can cut it at anytime or if there is a certain 'window' harvest time.

[Roy Steele]

Any times good but don't cut the first year shoots. Would you like to trade some. I,ve got dog wood.viburnum,wils rose shoots. No cain in my area. PM me

[Dave Bowers]

I've read shoot around 3/8 in thickness is what your looking for.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I most imagine that no matter what size the shoot itself is at the base you are only going to use which ever part spines right for your set up? Correct?
I mean, if you test the lengths that are say 1/4" in diameter and those spine right for your bow set up, then that's the part your going to use. Then the remainder on down further from that would spine right for someone using a heavier set up, higher poundage.......right?

I ask because I'll be cutting some soon myself. I don't intend to bring the entire stalk home with me, only the useable portions that would spine for 45-65lb. bows or so.
I've also read that you need to select the spine for about 5-6lbs. over what you shoot for getting the shafts to fly correctly. Anybody else heard or read this?

[Pat B]

When cutting cane anytime is OK as long as you cut only mature culms(canes). I just cut a bundle this morning. Use a 3/8" open end wrench for a quick gauge to measure the base of the culm. Cut only culms that the paperliker sheath has fallen off or is deteriorating. If you cut immature culms they will wrinkle lengthwise as they dry. They will probably make an OK arrow but will be flimsy. I usually cut them at least 30" long but usually longer. After they dry you can check the spine along the shaft and cut your shafts with proper spine.
  After I cut cane I bundle them in closely matched groups of 15, store them in a dry place for a month or so. I usually put them in my utility roomsto dry.

[Bill Skinner]

There should be at least 5-8 shoots coming out of the node.  They usually grow 2-4 per year, the strongest will be the 3 year old cane.  2 year old also works great, it is a lot lighter than the 3 year old cane.  I carry a 3/8 or 7/16 open end wrench and a 5/16.  If the 5/16 doesn't fit and the 7/16 does, I cut it.  Using a minimum and a maximum gauge makes your shafts a lot more uniform.  I use the 3/8 for bows over 50#, 7/16 for lighter bows, there is overlap.  I personally pick the cane with really long nodes, but that is personal preferance.  Bill

[stringstretcher]

Originally posted by Bill Skinner:
[QB] There should be at least 5-8 shoots coming out of the node.

Bill are you talking about leaf stems?  I have never seen a piece of cane that I cut that has shoots coming out of the node???

[nchunter]

I find that cane growing in the shade is better for arrows that the cane growing in the sun.  Cane growing in the sun grows fast and gets too big, and has lots of annoying branches to strip off.

Conversely, shade-grown cane is usually the diameter I want, and has a noticably thicker wall thickness, and few or no branches.

BTW, Jan-Feb is the best time to cut cane: the snakes and skeeters aren't out yet!

[Blackhawk]

Great info here.  I am off to Tennessee in a week and know of some river cane in the lowlands where I am visiting.  I was considering harvesting some to play with, and now you guys have provided valuable harvest tips.    

Now for a dumb question?     If the bigger end (toward the base) is about 3/8", then common sense tells me this will be the point end while the smaller end (toward the top) will be the nock end. Is there a particular diameter
size favored for the nock end?