Ferr-L-Tite

[rbbhunt]

OK guys, I've been using Ferr-L-Tite for, let's say a long time and I have noticed the last few years a softer hot melt broadhead cement on the market.  I haven't really kept up with "technology" the last few years and was wondering your thoughts on which is better, if either one.

Thanks

[Charlie Lamb]

Randy... FerruleTite is a great ferrule cement and has been around as long as I can remember. If it has a draw back, it's that it can get brittle in cold weather, causing the loss of a point here and there... not a huge issue, but something to consider.

A "softer" ferrule cement would have the advantage of not going brittle and saving the odd point here and there. The disadvantage would be the lower melting point usually associated with the soft stuff. That translates to losing points in 3D targets because of heat from the friction of impact loosening the tip.
Again this is only a minor issue.

Guys will lose more tips in cold or in targets due to poor bonding of the cement... improper glue surface prep.

[rbbhunt]

Thanks Charlie.  i think I'll stick with the Ferr-L-Tite.  It hasn't failed me yet.  What part of Missouri are you in?  I get up there trout fishing once in a while.

[M60gunner]

I started using the ferrule cement that Black Widow has in there catalog a few years ago. I have not had any issues with it. I like the fact it has a little longer "work time" before getting to hard.
I believe losing points in targets is a result of not preping the points before applying. I soak them in Acetone and use a swab to clean out the junk inside the points (oil, etc.). Now I wish some one would make a tool to groove the point end of the shaft. There is a tool for cleaning up the nock ends I use. It takes off excess finish and makes the taper true agian. It also leaves little grooves that help retain glue. There was a tool that reemed the points and left grooves but it was a little pricey and I do not see them anymore.

[Charlie Lamb]

Randy... clear up near Hannibal along the Mississippi river.

[poekoelan]

I haven't lost a point yet using plain old regular hi temp hot melt. A bag of 20 sticks costs a little less than one stick of ferrel tite.

[longstiks]

Gunner, If you want to grove your points just use a 5/16 tap on your tips. You'll lose a little bit of weight but they don't come off anymore when screwed on when glueing them on.
Denny

[rbbhunt]

Thanks, The idea of cleaning before gluing is a good one.

Charlie, I usually don't get that far up.  I fish Bennett springs once in a while and plan on fishing Taneycomo for the first time the first week of October.

[Eric Krewson]

I always have to interject a little tip when I see the extremes people go to to clean the inside of a field point or broadhead prior to gluing. The easiest way and the best is to wrap a piece of course sand paper around an old shaft with the point taper intact, insert it in the tip, and give it a few turns. You will have bare metal inside and no rust, oil or anything else.

I have lost points in targets with every cleaning method out there including running a tap inside the point as long as I used hot melt. When I switched to 5 minute epoxy my point loss woes were a thing of the past.

[madness522]

Eric how easily can you get a tip off when applied with 5 minute expoy?

[Charlie Lamb]

Randy... I used to be the Game Warden at Bennett Springs. There was some great ground hog hunting on the Niangua River access just outside the park boundaries... of course that was a VERY long time ago.

Possum fur bugs with a red head or black and yellow jigs use to knock em dead...the trout, not the ground hogs.  :D

[Flesner]

If I have any arrows that survive long enough, I will heat up the tips (and glue) once or twice a year and give them a little twist. This seems to remedy the brittle glue problem with ferr-l-tite.

My normal proceedure is to lose or break all my arrows and then make new ones. Problem solved!  

[NoCams]

Eric,
I have the same problem you do ! Your idea is a great one and if used in conjunction with my simple cleaning method I am sure no one would ever lose a point, unless they do like me and lose the whole arrow, haha !!!

Just take a few Qtips and swab the inside of the point with acetone, or alcohol, dry with another Qtip and done !!!

nocams

[Eric Krewson]

Points glued on with epoxy come off easily with heat. Lets say it takes 2 seconds in front of a propane torch to remove a hot melt glued point it will take 6 to 8 seconds to remove an epoxy glued point, they pop off when a little steam build up inside the point.