bevel-lok

[Beanbag]

Hi Posted this on bowyers bench told I might get a little more info here. Planning on using the bevel-lok to convert my Martin Savannah 60# 28" to a 2 pc. Do not see many in use, is this connection strong enough for this setup. Is the riser strong enough for this conversion. Anyone familar with this setup. Thanks Jim G

[snakewood3]

They are problematic. All the bowyers that I know of that tried them discontinued using them and sold the bows with them as "non funtional". The higher the draw weight the more prone to problems. I have a Adcock with this system and ended up gluing it together.

[JRY309]

I've heard that too,like said most bowyers that used them sold as non functional.I think it would decrease the value of your Savannah,if you ever wanted to sell it later.

[Beanbag]

Well, Guess I won't be making a 2 pc. Apparently they must loosen up with use and become non functional. Don't neeto be wearing some part of my bow. Thanks Guys Jim G

[D. Key]

I had a Massie 2 piece recurve with the bevel-lok system and Jeff installed a set screw that could be tightened to keep the pieces together.  Seemed to work well.  As usual that great shooter is just a memory for me now.  

[Razorbak]

When Jim designed that TD..it was the cats meow if properly installed but like others said there was problems..but his buddy Craig Warren designed the bow bolt..that was better in my opinion...you would be better to use that system if you do it step by step from the instructions..I have seen both TD designs in the prototype stages and bow bolt is awesome..I say go with it

[Beanbag]

I contacted Warren last week about the bolt. He was a bit concerned about the smaller grip on the savannh. I have the bevel-lok coming, will see how it looks, expensive experiment thks Jim G

[Doc Nock]

Check with John McCullough. Jim Stepp and he were protyping the early versions by cutting existing one piece bows in half and installing the bevel lock.

I don't get around bowyers as much as some here but only knew of ONE who had big problems.

They do appear to require a bit of finese (?)to get to be aligned right.

Not sure if John would be willing to offer pointers or not, but I know he was on the ground floor of doing the retro-fitting and I shot some of them that had been together and apart hundreds of times years back. Dunno if they were shot that much though...the real test.

FWIW...  

[joekeith]

Keep us posted on how this works.  I've been thinking about one myself.....
Good luck..  

[Ric O'Shay]

I have two of Jeff Massie's take down Longhorns with the bevel lock. Both have the set screws and work like a champ. They are rock solid and far from being "non-functional".

Those others that sold their bows as non-functional, perhaps lacked the necessary skills required to properly fit the bevel lock. I believe that Keith Chastain still uses this same feature on some of his TD recurve models. Also Abe Penner at one time used the same system on his recurves. He stopped only because of the time required to properly fit the two bevels. Not because it was an inferior product.

[Razorbak]

another way is to a fiberglass sleeve..similar to what Big Jim and BW does for there TD system..there is a how to on how to do it..rock solid as well

[Beanbag]

Well I'm starting to feel a little better about this. Ric, How did you use the set screw, sounds like that might be the ticket.Can you show a sketch of it so I can see what,s involved.The instructions do not show any, unless I missed it.Going to do a search for the fiberglass sleeve. Have been wondering how one would retro fit a grip for that. Thanks guys getting good info, Jim G

[Beanbag]

Well Did a search for the fiberglass sleeve like Black widow or Big Jim's, did not find too much. I guess you need to make a jig to align the bow, then cut the angle for the lower limb. take material off the lower limb to allow for the glass build up. i think a little needs to be taken off the upper limb to allow for glass build up also. Don't know how much glass layering is needed though, any thoughts?. Lower limb needs to be mould released and aligned back in jig. Then the glassing would be done. Any other ideas that might be needed??. Might be worth a try on a blank to see what works. Still a little concerned with the bevel lok. Thks Jim G

[foxbo]

I use to own a Griffin crafted by John McCullough and it had the bevel-lok takedown system. I never had any problems with it at all. John told me one of his friends had a Griffin which pulled over seventy pounds with the bevel-lok, with no issues. Once I assembled it, I'd give it a nice thump with the heel of my hand, and it stayed put. When I took it apart, another smart thump would allow it to slide open. I liked it a lot.

[DannyBows]

I'd try a Sleeve. I've got the web page with directions. If you want it PM me an email address and I can send it as an attachment.

[Ric O'Shay]

Beanbag -

Here are a few pics of the Massie Longhorn with bevel lock. The first pic shows the bow assembled. The Allen head set screw is seen in the center of the bottom part of the handle. A small hole is cut in the leather to allow access to the set screw with an Allen wrench.

 

This pic shows the bow disassembled with the bevel lock visible. The female section (left side) shows the set screw. The male section (right) shows the indentation where the set screw locks into place with the bow handle in perfect alignment.

 

Female showing the location of the set screw...

 

The male with the indentation where the set screw seats and locks the two pieces together. My apologies for the fuzzy pic.

 

Notice that the riser is cut at an angle. This is the "bevel" in the bevel lock. As the two pieces  slide together, they hit the stop in perfect alignment. Check out Keith Chastain's website  http://www.worldclassbows.com/takedown2.htm.  Hope this helps in your understanding of the bevel lock system.

Danny

[Beanbag]

Dan, Thanks for the photos, Better than Kustom king's pictures. I tried enlargeing their pics and could not get them clear enough. The lok certainly looks beefy enough to handle the stress.The set screw just keeps the lock from loosening correct?? It's not to take up any play? Could not get on Keith's site for some reason. That grip is not all that much different than the Savannah. Thanks again Jim G

[Ric O'Shay]

Jim -
You are right, the set screw does not take up any play. When assembled and the bow strung, the the bevel lock will not come apart. I've had to bump mine several times in order to take down the bow. The set screw is only a only an insurance policy. Peace of mind you might say.

[Bill Turner]

I have a 64", 58@28" Massie TD with the bevel lock/set screw system. Jeff used diamond wood risers on his TD bows for added strength. Like Ric O'Shay, my bow is very tite, with no play what-so-ever, and it shoots like a dream. I would add, however, that Jeff Massie did not recommend this system for heavy weight bows (65@28 and above).