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gluing broadhead adapters

Started by mec lineman, March 31, 2011, 08:35:00 PM

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mec lineman

what is the best way to glue the head to the adapter using ferl tite? is a candle hot enough?
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Night Wing

In my opinion, a candle isn't hot enough.
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 42# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 10.02
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 37# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 11.37

rastaman

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Here are a couple of old threads that might help you out til some others chime in.     :)

And a quote from Charlie Lamb on the candle part...

 Next I heat the ferrule with a gas flame or electric hot plate. Candles and lighters give off carbon which fouls a nice clean ferrule.
TGMM Family of the Bow

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Randy Keene
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Doug in MN

The single best I have tried is JB WELD, I have never had one fail. I am sure some of the epoxy products would be very good as well. I just have no experience with them.

If you are set on using Ferr-L-Tite use a small propane torch.

Hot Hap


Jason R. Wesbrock

Is a candle hot enough? Technically, yes. I used to glue inserts into aluminum arrows that way. It works, but makes a heck of a mess. A propane torch is much, much better.

reddust

propane torch works good for me.
michael schingeck

30pointbuck

propane torch and alcohol burner are what i use.
Dale





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Bowmania

Candle's good, but most important is to clean the inside of the broadhead with a cue tip and acetone.  You won't believe what's in there.

Bowmania
I'm not putting up with this guys shit and dogging me.

George Vernon

I use an alcohol burner.  Heat the insert hot enough so the hot melt adhesive will melt and spread when you touch it to the insert.  Then before it completely cools off, place the broadhead on the end of the insert.  Then heat the broadhead so it remelts the glue and finish sliding it on by pushing the head against a solid object like your work bench.  Spin it on the hard surface to make sure it's centered.  If not it will wobble.  Turn the broadhead on the insert with a pair of pliers (it's still too hot to touch), and spin again.

I've seen some folks heat the adhesive then smear it on the insert and then heat and push the broad head on.  My experience is if the insert and the broadhead have not been hot enough to melt the adhesive indirectly you can form what the plumbers call 'cold' joints that will break with little impact.  Cold joints happen when the solder is directly heated and is hot enough to run on the copper pipe, but not get sucked into the joint by capillary action.  The joint looks good, and may even be water tight intially, but won't last.  Same kind of thing happens to poorly glued broadheads.


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