Bareshafting carbons w/ Broadheads?

[Cherokee Scout]

We have found that the type of broadhead makes little difference if the broadhead spins true and the spine is correct. One of the biggest factors other than incorrect spine is the shooters inability to draw and release exactly the same every shot. Drawing 1/4" more or less will cause some bad broadhead flight. Drawing 1/2 inch more or less causes more serious arrow flight. 30 yards is more than we ever shoot bareshaft broadheads. Even the smallest error in release or draw length will effect the flight to some degree. On those distances past 20 or so, they are more likely to fly off target. Generally when we have completed our bareshaft tuning our groups are slightly larger than with the field points, but we are hitting the same spot. We have no problems with hitting left or right except for our normal poor shooting. We have done this many times for customers. Most are shocked when they try to shoot their present shaft and broadhead combo. I have seen shafts fly nearly straight up, some hit the target sideways (yes, hit the target flat sideways) and some take off at 90 degrees to the side and miss the target by 20 feet! The customers had been shooting the same combo for a long time, thought they had the right combination. When we got it right for them, they know they can not blame the shaft or broadhead for a miss or wounded animal.

[Cherokee Scout]

Forgot your question concerning if the benefit is worth it. If you live in a subdivision and are trying this in your back yard. NO, do not do it. You could hurt someone.  We are in the country with plenty of room to miss and nothing to hit but trees. Yes, it is worth it here because our customers get as perfect arrow flight as possible considering their personal habits and abilities. Is it worth it to help someone avoid hitting a deer in the hip or stomach? YES sir, it is for us.

[Cherokee Scout]

One more point....we do this with carbon shafts, not wood or aluminum. The reason we do not do this with wood or aluminum is that because they can hit the ground or target at such wild angles until we get it right, the woods will break and the aluminums will bend or break.

[Dan Worden]

Thanks John.

Let me rephrase one question.

Do you get a better tune with this method over a well performed planing method?

[Cherokee Scout]

I do not understand a well performed planing method.  
I have never heard of that.

[Carbon Caster]

John,

Unless you have a shooting machine quality release there is NO WAY in the world that you can get consistent stable flight with a broadhead on a bare shaft.  I would venture to guess that MANY TOP OLY archers don't have a good enough release to get good flight from a front steered projectile that is undergoing side to side movement.  Even with a mechanical release you would need a VERY CALM day to get decent repeatable flight.

[Cherokee Scout]

Yes, I agree, most shooters are inconsistent with release and draw. A machine would be perfect.
When we are helping customers here at shop we see nearly every one has imperfect draw/release causing some right or left shaft flight. We can only get it as close as possible so it is not consistantly sharp right or left. Most of the time we get the flight straight into target with occasional slight kick right and left. This occassional kick right or left is resulting from the inconsistent draw or poor release. We can almost always get good enough flight to shoot the bareshaft broadhead from 15-20 yards and hit the target within a few inches of desired point. Some things we have learned that has surprised me are that two bows that you would say are exactly the same (two 50 lb Black Widows for example) may not shoot the same spine arrows. Two people drawing the same length, shooting the same bow, may require different spine shafts. The person with the smoother release can shoot a lighter spine shaft. Change brace height or change string silencers and you may see a change in how a bare shaft flys.

[Bill Carlsen]

I've been shooting for over 50 years and have never been able to get any broadhead to bareshaft consistently. Maybe it's my inconsistencies but fletching on the shaft is there for a reason.

[Jeff Strubberg]

Putting a broadhead on a shaft without something to stabilize it is a bad, bad idea.  Would you shoot a fletched shaft backwards and expect repeatable results?

[Cherokee Scout]

We are not talking about shooting or hunting with no feathers. Bareshafting is only done to "test" and "tune" the shaft for proper spine. It must be done in safe envoirment or it is very dangerous.

[Jeff Strubberg]

SRTA, even if you can make it safe, it isn't going to be repeatable.

You are putting the steering surface ont he front of the shaft.  Seriously, think about that.

[Cherokee Scout]

I appreciate the input and opinions. It is my opinion that if you want as perfect flight as possible with broadheads, there is no better way.
I have seen too many people come for help with there broadheads,we find their  spine is so far off it is a wonder how they shoot the shaft and broadhead combination. When they leave after tuning using our method, they have it right and have confidence in their shafts.

[Alsea]

Makes no sense to me. If you get the broadhead/bareshaft hitting in the middle, assuming it's possible to do so with any consistency, as soon as you add fletching it will stiffen the shaft and it will hit off mark, unless you are tuning the broadhead/bareshaft to hit weak, so what's the point?

Time consuming, potentially dangerous and accomplishing little, if anything, that can't be done as well or better conventionally with less trouble. The only thing that makes good sense is to bareshaft tune weak with field tip, add fletch and then tune for POI between BH and FT by building out side plate, trimming arrow shaft, tweaking plunger or brace. Shortest route to good tune.

[Allan Hundeby]

Am I the only one who has a hard enough time keeping my form consistent just trying to bareshaft field points??  I can't imagine trying broadheads anytime soon.