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Author Topic: sharpening snuffers  (Read 421 times)

Offline huntmaster80

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sharpening snuffers
« on: April 27, 2011, 10:27:00 PM »
Im sure this is not the first time one has asked this question, but im gona ask anyway.

Ihave never sharpened a broadhead before, and don't know where to start.  

What kind of sharpening system or stone should I get. And any little tips to make it work better?

Thanks to all the guys that help me out.

Offline Soilarch

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2011, 10:36:00 PM »
Charlie Lamb\\'s Woodsmen Sharpening Videos  


Most 3 blades are the same.  

If you have a very coarse stone you could use that instead of the file but you're really better off to get a big file. (You'll end up both time and money ahead.)
Micah 6:8

Offline Soilarch

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2011, 10:42:00 PM »
Reviewed the videos again.  I don't want to insult your intelligence but in case you're among those who are sharpening challenged he uses in this order

File
Oilstone
"Crock-Stick"

I really would start with a file.  If you don't have any stones or a crock-stick let us know and we'll set you right on what options are out there.
Micah 6:8

Offline huntmaster80

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2011, 10:44:00 PM »
Can't get the videos to play.

Offline huntmaster80

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2011, 10:47:00 PM »
I don't have any sharpening supplies, figured I would get an educated direction to start in. Instead of wasting money.  Thanks for helping again. I really appreciate it alot!

Offline goatkiller

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2011, 10:53:00 PM »
KME is great place to get your stones.
Maki-Mato

Offline Soilarch

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2011, 12:42:00 AM »
3rd will be the charm! (Other comp crashed twice.)

Obviously, because of the above I'm no computer wiz so I can't help on the videos not loading.


However, you're in luck because I love sharpening.  To me it's a whole hobby in itself just like archery and whitewater!  So, here's a written outline of the videos.  The videos are better, but maybe this will help until they work.

Materials:
3-blade Broadhead
Sharpie (color's not important, but I find red the easiest to see.)
4" or bigger C-clamp
BIG file (12" or bigger, don't stress about the "cut" just make sure it's a metal file and not a wood rasp)
*Medium* Stone (More on this later)
Finishing stone or "crock-stick" like Mr. Lamb uses.

Explanation and Procedures:

In theory, these are easy because you don't have to hold an exact angle.  The broadhead itself will hold a perfect 30 degree angle on two edges at one time if you lay it flat on the stone. Trouble is, stones and broadheads are rarely perfectly flat and they need to be in order for the full length of each edge to contact the stone.

This is where the file come in handy.
1. Clamp the little handle of the file to a workbench with the handle away from you.
2. Take your Sharpie and color the entire length of all six bevels (two bevels make each "blade").
3. With the point of the broadhead pointing away from you, lay the broadhead on the file.  
4. Hold it carefully by the blade that is sticking up.
5. Push the broadhead forward down the length of the file.
6. Inspect the bevels.  Where the Sharpie is gone are the "high" spots.  
7. Repeat 5. until there is no Sharpie markings left.  This will mean you've gotten the bevels/edges flat.
8. Get all 3 sides flat.

(The beauty of using a file is that they are either flat or BROKE so you know you're now working with a broadhead that has 3 "true" sides)

*Medium* Stone
-Basically repeat steps 2-7 listed above.  You don't need to use the sharpie but it always helps to have some visual feedback for beginners. You can push AND pull on the stones but NOT THE FILE.  Files only cut in one direction.

Finishing Stone
-Make a few light passes on your finishing stone or crock-stick.

  For all these processes there are some over-arching rules:  
1. Take care to make sure you place it on the stone/file flat.  You don't want to bugger up the corners or edge by being hasty. "Straight down" and "Straight up".
2.  LIGHT pressure.  Every beginner I've ever worked with gets in a rush and starts to use pressure.  The short explanation is   DON'T  !!!!


The file ought to be easy enough to find at any hardware store.  

The *medium* stone can be several things.  (And I keep putting ** around *medium* because it's a very subjective term.  Don't freak out if it says "coarse" or "fine" on it somewhere.  I'll add links to stones I would personally suggest below.

You can use a finishing stone or a crock-stick to "finish" the edge.  I like the idea of a stone for ease of use.  I'm sure Mr. Lamb uses a crock-stick because it's easily taken into the field on a hunt for quick touch-up if needed. (As an aside, I've found that when Mr. Lamb posts here it is usually the sharing of absolute-practical-field proven knowledge he's acquired over a couple decades of walking the walk.)


The file can be ordered at 3 rivers (and a dozen other places) if you can't find one locally.  Again, trust me and get the 12".
    Grobet File


For the *medium* stone there's several options.  I'm a fan of the DMT's for an application like this because they are always flat and can be used to flatten your other stones if you don't want to use a crock-stick or another DMT.
   6" DMT Dia-Sharps  
I'd get the "fine" to use as your *medium* stone.  You can get a larger 8" stone or even 11", but they are luxuries, not necessities.  What IS needed is the continuous smooth surface. You'll be happier with these as opposed to the ones with little holes in the surface.  Use these with water.

-or-
   India Stones Coarse/Fine Combo
This could be both your *medium* and finishing stone.  However, these are rarely flat when you buy them and will dish-out with use...requiring you to flatten them with a DMT....so they aren't as good of a deal as they seem.  Use these with oil. (I basically include these so you know there are cheaper alternatives.)

-or-
   KME\\'s med/fine ceramic stones
KME is top shelf. Period.  They actually have the 6" DMT on there site as well. I'm fortunate enough to have the KME ceramic stones.  For specific applications (like this one) I can heartily recommend them. Use these with oil, water, or panther piss...makes no difference    :)  


Finishing stones/ Crock-Sticks  
First up is a crock-stick like Mr. Lamb uses.  I can't find one that resembles his.  If you want to go this route I'd buy this:
   Crock-Stick Sharpener
Use can use it to touch up knives (if they aren't TOO dull already) and just take a single rod into the field with you.

There's really a 1,001 options here. Just be wary of the grey diamond-coated options. Some may be coarser than we are wanting here. (And I'm trying to save you the expense of trial-and-error.)


Or you can get an actual finishing stone.
Again, I really like DMT an application like this.  You could get a DMT with the Fine on one side and Extra fine on the other.
   Fine/E.Fine Combo DMT    
"finishing stones" are a world all to themselves. You can get as exotic, expensive, fancy, and "fine" (in grit) as your imagination and budget will allow, but I have to stop myself here.  Your head is probably swimming already and there are just so many different options.  The problem nearly every finishing stone will have is that it will dish out, and the DMT solves that.  The KME excels at it's intended purpose, but it's not fine enough to finish an edge IMO. The E.F. DMT leaves a 9 micron scratch pattern. Red blood cells are typically 8 microns.

Here's the easy answer:
Get the file -$15
Get the Fine/E. Fine DMT -$47

You'll have all three "stones" and you'll never have to worry about flattening any of them.  The DMT will be small enough you can take it with you. (Think of a heavy Hershey's bar).  If they need a touch-up pull it out, spit on it, and take a couple swipes down the E.F. side.  It is not the cheapest route but it's IMO the most practical and fool proof. That F/E.F DMT is what I'd buy if all my sharpening stuff was stolen and I wanted to shoot 3-blades.


PM me if you want to pan out a shoe-string budget plan or if you need clarification of anything.
Micah 6:8

Offline huntmaster80

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2011, 09:04:00 AM »
Soilarch, thank you so much. That is a wonderful explanation.  Once again great people on here so willing to help.  Thanks again.

Offline Norminator

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #8 on: April 28, 2011, 10:22:00 AM »
I read all the snuffer sharpening tips in the hope that I too will one day accidentally get one sharp.
Norm from Canuckistan

45#,50#,55#,56" Bear Grizzlies
45#,54#,52" Bear Kodiak Magnum
55#,58" Vintage Works 62 Kodiak
55#,62" Tomahawk

Offline term

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #9 on: April 28, 2011, 10:37:00 AM »
I like the snuffer tamer
Still looking for something I might of forgot.

Offline misfire

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #10 on: April 28, 2011, 10:57:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Norminator:
I read all the snuffer sharpening tips in the hope that I too will one day accidentally get one sharp.
:biglaugh:  

I laugh because I was thinking the same thing.
Mark

"The shortest distance from the earth to your mouth is the best." ~Wendell Berry~

Offline anchorman

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Re: sharpening snuffers
« Reply #11 on: April 28, 2011, 11:14:00 PM »
I use snuffers and have for a few years. To me they are pretty easy to get razor sharp. I use a 14" file. Lay it on a bench or flat surface mark the blades with a sharpie then srtoke the head from the point of the file to the handle. Usually do 10 stokes then rotate until you get the markie off. After that just go 5 strokes and rotate then 4 and so on then I use a fine diamond stone from smiths. and then leather strap. Sometimes I even get by without the stone and go from the file to the leather and can shave hair. Hope this helps you...

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