Author Topic: Tapered Shafts (Read 361 times)

Converml · « **on:** April 29, 2011, 02:19:00 PM »

Ok,

so I know what it is and how it is done my question is why. What advantage does tapering 1/32 ( from 5/16 to 11/32)of an inch provide over just sing a straight 11/32? Thanks Merle

wooddamon1 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 29, 2011, 02:59:00 PM »

Better feather clearance and quicker recovery from paradox. Also a little more FOC for better accuracy.

traditional beagle · « **Reply #2 on:** April 29, 2011, 03:05:00 PM »

I've heard the reasons and am sure there is something to them but if a straight shaft is properly spined to your bow then I haven't really noticed enough difference to justify the difference in price.

Stumpkiller · « **Reply #3 on:** April 29, 2011, 03:17:00 PM »

Also, as it penetrates flesh the thinner taper to the rear doesn't drag as much as a parallel shaft - giving better penetration (in theory).

It also contributes to the trendy FOC concept by getting the weight further ahead of the center of the shaft.

I put a 12" taper on my wood shafts (both 23/64" and 11/32" down to 5/16") and it does seem to make they fly nice with little noticable initial wobble. No difference in price - just takes me a few evenings of sitting in front of the TV with a razor plane and a long wood "V" block.

jarhead_hunter · « **Reply #4 on:** April 29, 2011, 05:37:00 PM »

I tapered the rear of some Sitka spruce shafts for 10 inches from 11/32 to 5/16, then footed them with purple heart and finally tapered the foots from 11/32 to 5/16 for 6 inches.

They recover very quickly from paradox and fly extremely well.

No extra cash to speak of but a lot of extra time.

Gonna try some Surewoods next.

Charles.

snag · « **Reply #5 on:** April 29, 2011, 07:34:00 PM »

I think they do recover from paradox quicker. No scientific proof. But I do wonder if after crown dipping and cresting isn't that 1/16" about gone?!

wooddamon1 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 29, 2011, 07:49:00 PM »

I do a thin white base coat under all cap colors to make the final color cover well. Never measured the thickness after, but they fly the same as the ones I only stain and seal...

7 Lakes · « **Reply #7 on:** April 29, 2011, 07:56:00 PM »

I like them because they come to me already pretty straight. From looking at mine they are milled down on a lathe. You can't do that when you start with a crooked shaft.

snag · « **Reply #8 on:** April 29, 2011, 08:21:00 PM »

I'm just wondering if by starting with a 23/64" shaft and tapering it down to to 5/16" you'd have an even better shelf clearance? Just wondering out loud.

wooddamon1 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 29, 2011, 08:34:00 PM »

I've heard of it being done and I'd imagine that would be the case...I've always bought 11/32 though...

Wheels2 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 29, 2011, 08:37:00 PM »

The best wood arrows I ever shot I made from compressed and tapered cedar shafts. I can't say if it was the compression or the taper but they flew better than anything else I ever tried

meathead · « **Reply #11 on:** April 29, 2011, 09:01:00 PM »

I shoot both, but can't see the difference to my eye. That is shooting through recurves. It may make a bigger difference if you are shooting a bow that isn't centershot or close to it.

Converml · « **Reply #12 on:** May 02, 2011, 01:37:00 PM »

Thanks all for the replies. Merle

ChrisM · « **Reply #13 on:** May 02, 2011, 06:46:00 PM »

Don't know the science behind it but mine seem to tune easier. Also the FOC is a little better

Larry m · « **Reply #14 on:** May 03, 2011, 01:47:00 AM »

Best wood shaft I have ever shot was 23/64 cedar, tapered to 11/32 tip and 5/16 on the nock. Very quick recovery with clean flight.

Jim Wright · « **Reply #15 on:** May 03, 2011, 10:51:00 AM »

With tapered shafts if your nock taper is off any and/or your tapered section back to the nock is not dead on, you have real flight problems. With paralel shafts you only have the nock to consider and to me it is much easier to tell with them if the nock is on straight. Issues with the front of the shaft and points are easier to detect and are an inconvenience compared to those at the rear and nocks.

Pack · « **Reply #16 on:** May 03, 2011, 11:11:00 AM »

I use to taper the rear of all my shafts, but after some experimenting I can honestly say I can't tell the difference in tapered or parallel shafts. If they are spined right and are straight, they shoot way better than I can shoot them. It is one less step I have to accomplish when building arrows.

Zradix · « **Reply #17 on:** May 03, 2011, 11:22:00 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by snag:
I'm just wondering if by starting with a 23/64" shaft and tapering it down to to 5/16" you'd have an even better shelf clearance? Just wondering out loud.

I like the way you're thinking

Sharpend60 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 03, 2011, 11:25:00 AM »

Nearly all of my wood shafts are tapered.
23/64s to 5/16s.

I find I get a larger spine range and most of my arrows shoot well out of most of my bows.

mudfish · « **Reply #19 on:** May 03, 2011, 01:40:00 PM »

I always taper 23/64 shafts and they seem to come out of the bow cleaner. but with 11/32 not really sure I can tell a difference.


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Author Topic: Tapered Shafts (Read 361 times)

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