internal footings for GT Trad 7595.....help needed

[saumensch]

Hi,

to get an GT Trad Shaft 7595 stiffer (for adding more point weight) i thought about internal footings. I was thinking about alum rods or the like in length about 3 inches to add weight and make the shaft stiffer at the same time.

Does any of you have experience with internal footings? What should i expect?

Any help apreciated,
Thanks
Axel

[tecum-tha]

By adding anything to the front of the shaft, it will not become stiffer. Adding length will make any shaft weaker in spine, not stiffer. This already is a 0.300 deflection shaft (the stiffest available). Equivalent wood spine is 104#.
Even when you pull the Bob Lee to 31" you hold about 66-68# at 31".Your problem is, that this arrowshaft only weighs about 11 grain/inch, so your full length arrow is only about 350 grain+50 grain (nock+fletching).
Spine wise, you're about 15# too heavy, assuming 66#@31" would require an approximate shaft spine of: 56+15+15=86# with a 125 grain tip. Assuming you use 175 grains as a tip weight,your arrow will be about 575 grains. So there is about 100 grains missing. Tip:
1.) Fletch with 60/120 4-fletch with 4" fethers 2.) Fill the shaft with braided nylon rope up to 8" to the nock end. This adds with a 7 grain/inch rope about   about 160 grain weight. It will weaken the spine slightly, so you may loose 25 grain point weight.
Should still deliver a min. 700 grain arrow and about 10+ grains/lb.
3.) glue a thin! leather piece under your strike plate

[saumensch]

thanks tecum tha,

but the arrows will be for the Thunderchild; I draw 30" so about 65# @ my draw with a 0 center cut;

I want the 7595 in 31" length with 100 grain brass inserts and 150 - 180 grain tips / heads.

This gives me about 9 grain per pound wich is a bit to less for my liking so i need to add weight.

From former experiments i dont like rope or weight tubes in my arrows and therefore wanted to add the weight in form of an internal footing.
From my experience and according to Stus calc 3-4 inches of internal footing will stiffen the spine of the arrow if it isnt to heavy.
So i thought about getting a fitting alum rod or the like that would bring me around 10-20 grains per inch and experimenting with what the rawshaft will tell me from there on.

BTW, i fletch 4x4" (75/105) already and do the final fine tuning by moving my strike plate.

[tecum-tha]

This will not work. What problem did you have with the rope? You have to glue the rope to the end of the insert.Did you do that? Was the rope fitting tight but still sliding in? Rope does not equal rope. Your idea will not stiffen your shaft.I would also not have the bow cut to center. If you don't have it cut to center.
For those heavy bows with a long draw length, I would rather get me some tapered maple shafting in 23/64". Almost indestructible and available in the spines you want and heavy. A rod is concentrated weight, a steeltube or thin copper tube may work.1/4" copper tubes for refrigerators may work, depending on the interior diameter of your shafts. Have fun trying..

[saumensch]

The rope ive used was fitting very tight (fidly to get it in) and was glued with 2K Epoxy to the insert. I even melted the end of the rope a bit in the middle to form kind of a spike that went in (and was glued in) the little hole at the back of the insert. At first there was no problem but later some arrows didnt fly as the rest, ive cut one open and the rope had slided back in the shaft. Over time more arrows flew strange out of the same reason. This and the hard time installing it caused that i wont used it again.

Ive also already thought about getting the bow with a +1/16 or even +1/8 cc. Will talk to BigJim about that.

I wueld guess that an alum rod is lighter than even a thin copper tube, therefore i would think the stiffening would be more recognizable than with the heavier tube, but i will test that.

Thanks for the input.