Some information is needed please

[krink]

I have talked quite a bit with my grandfather about bows and the like.  He told me he is going to send me a longbow of his to make my start.  He said it was a Snowshoe Longbow, Alaska Trail.  I have searched up and down and found out a little about it but not much.  The bowyer was Terry Obal.  I guess his bows were sold in northern MI.  My questions start here.  First is it a good bow?  Are these bows forgiving?  Any tips or good to know information come with these bows or from the bowyer?  It is a 58# @ 28 bow and I will have to work up to it with my crappy board bow.  

My main concern is about where I live and the bow.  The bow is coming from Illinois and I live in southern AZ.  It is extremely dry here right now and the humidity level is usually between 10-15% normally.  Do I need to let the bow acclimatize to the desert before I string/and shoot it?  I believe the bow is a glass bow but I cant find much info about it.  The bow is not mine it is just on loan and I don't really want to break my grandfathers bow.  Thanks

Kyle

[JohnnyWayne]

What weight are you pulling now? Take your time working up to the 58 pounds, don't blow your shoulder out  

Someone should be along shortly to comment on whether you should wait before stringing and shooting, unfortunately I just don't know  

[krink]

The weight right now is up in the air.  I have some shoulder problems that need worked out.  I have only been doing the trad thing since october of 2010.  I can tell you what I pulled with a wheeled bow but those are worlds apart. I have shot 45# and a 52# bow with ease before I was hurt.  I am young and strong so the weight wont be hard once I am fine.  Believe me my main goal for 2011 is to take an AZ deer with a trad bow.  I will not jeopardize my dream just to pull a bow too soon.  And if I don't get to it this year there is always 2012 deer season.

[Rob DiStefano]

dunno a thing about the bow yer describing, however ...

drawing and holding the weight of a stick bow has little to do with brute physical strength, it's all about proper form and conditioning.  if you've not spent a LOT of time with stick bows, as it might not appear to be in yer case, heed jw's advice and don't over bow yerself.  take it slow and easy.  also, listed bow weights can be off as much as 5# or more, and then there's the matter of yer draw length - add or subtract 3#/inch as a guideline.  and 58#'s surely isn't a requirement for az deer.    

best of luck, enjoy the trad bowhunting ride.  

[Friend]

Some informative highly reliable advice has been provided. If you wish to venture into the upper ranges, then you have plenty of time.
 
Wading in fast may be quite counter productive and may be a place you may end up feeling unnecessary to begin with.

Once you master and own the form, which is by far more difficult to attain than with wheelies, going up incrementally would be my advice.
Traditional archery provides a fulfilling experience at the highest level. Over bowing and moving too fast has ruined the dream of many of prospective trad archer.

All the best!

Note: Moderate draw wt increases pale in comparison to what can be achieved by optimizing the overall arrow design when it comes to penetration.

[Grey Taylor]

Good info given above for style, form, and similar considerations.
For the bow, you may have to see it once it arrives and then make a determination as to whether it will work for you or not.
Is it wood or wood/fiberglass? Has it been used consistently over the years or has it been sitting in a closet for the last three decades?
If it's wood and hasn't been used in some time it may be better off as a memory rather than risk breaking it.
You'll really need to see it before deciding.

Guy

[krink]

I have written all I know for sure.  I can speculate as to how the bow was used though.  My grandfather was a scout leader and stopped shortly after my uncle became an Eagle scout.  He has 8-10 trad bows that he used with his scouts.  I do know how he treats his gear and it will be in exceptional condition when I get it.   He quit shooting about 2 years ago due to a similar injury as mine.  He has slowly been getting back into shooting.  

About the weight of the bow.  I am in total aggreance to not over bow myself.  I have a 27 inch draw length so assuming the bow is spot on then it should be around 55#.  I do know this is too much bow and I wished he had sent me his 48# bow but that is what he is shooting now because of his shoulder.  Becuase this bow is a gift I cant choose what draw weight I get.  Beggars cant be choosers   :D .  I recently found out a co-worker has a 45#bow he will let me use to learn on.  I plan to learn on that then try to move up.  He is not able to allow me to keep this bow for anytime because with his job he may have to up and leave.  He has already had a lay off scare a few weeks ago.  

I really do not have the funds to buy a bow that I want with my specs right now.  Thats the way it is and I am a very very quick learner and can teach my self thing easily.  I do have about 18 years shooting bows (compound) so I understand how form plays a huge role.  I have been on the shooters forum every day reading and learning.  Just have to put it to practice.   I do have my board bow that,  if anything, will help with reconditioning my shoulder.  It is not a good shooter but form can be practiced with it.  

Thanks for the advise and maybe someone can chime in on the make of the bow.

Kyle

[highplains55]

back in the early 90's there was a bowyer from wyoming making snowshoe longbows which i got to shoot,if yours is from the same bowyer,you are getting a good one!