i'm confused

[Workaholic1]

ok, here i am, with a 66" bear alaskan, 35@28.  i draw (when i have good form, and can get back tension) 30.5.  i've been using stu's calculator to try and find an appropriate arrow setup.  i'm seriously looking at full length easton acc 440s (31.5").
  according to the calculator, that will put me at 10.9 gpp, and 14.9 foc, using a 125gr head. (using generic recurve, 35@28, 30.5 draw)  i plugged in the info from easton's site for the nock, of 9gr.  leftthe insert weight at 20.  it says that this arrow should be about perfect.
  if you go to the info page, it has a amo deflection of .363, but easton's website says deflection is .440.  i am assuming i am using the center cut block in the right way, that -1/8 means 1/8inch past center.  if i switch over to wood arrow, and plug in the info as garnered and figured off easton's site, i have to go to 1/8 the other side (1/8 shy of center??) to get the spines similar.
  is this setup to weak?  am i using the calculator right?  why would there be a difference in the spines between the website and the calculator?  am i interpreting the center cut block correctly?
oh, i'm sorry if this has turned into a run on post and is difficult to read.

edit:  i'm using b50 for my string and 3x5 feathers in my calculations.

[robtattoo]

No idea. I use arrows to tune my arrows, not computers.

Are you wanting to hunt with this bow?

Couple of things to consider;

 

• Build yourself up to a heavier bow. 35# is to light (legally) in most States
• If you aren't hunting with it, forget Stu's calculator. FOC isn't important to you right now.

Easton's arrow chart should get you pretty close

• Once you've got some shafts, use O.L. Adcock's bareshafting method to get them perfect.
• Computers are great, obviously we all love them, but nothing beats shooting arrows & seeing what happens. There is no quick, simple, 'couch'

solution to finding out how an arrow will perform.
[/list]

[Stumpkiller]

I'm confused, too.  I am limited to wood arrows for experience but have never in 30+ years adjusted the riser pad thickness BEFORE shooting a shaft to compensate for spine.  I start with a pad of leather and a 1/16" spacer under that and shim in or out as necessary to adjust arrow "windage".

Something not shown in these tables & charts is your release.  When releasing by fingers variances in technique between shooters makes as much or more difference than center-shot & riser pad tweaks IMHO.  If you are cut to center that alone gives you a bunch of leeway in spine choice.  The further from center cut the more dependant on proper spine the bow will be.

[Rob DiStefano]

what robtatto said.  

interestingly, my first freestyle target recurve was a 66" bear alaskan, 35@28.  deja vu to me too.  

[Ragnarok Forge]

You need to add 2.5 lbs per every inch of draw length over 28 inches.  Use that draw weight and your actual draw length in Stu's calculator.

[Wannabe1]

I'm with Rob/Rob on this one. I just got a Martin Vision longbow, 66", 50# @ 28". I pull it to 29" so, about 53#, and all the arrows that I have, that are spined to shoot at that range with my draw; aren't flying like I want them.

So, with that said, on a whim, I shot an EL 2219 cut 29.5 bop with 175gr tip and they were flying like darts! Also, they quieted the bow even more. Conclusion, some bows like a heavy arrow or a light arrow and you just gotta play with it some.

Sorry, probably not much help too you but, just wanted to share my recent experience.      I don't like them calculator thingies!

[Workaholic1]

robtattoo- yes, possibly i'll use this for hunting.  They removed the minimum draw weight requirement here in Kansas.  This is the only trad bow I have, and the Boss has spoken, that if I want another bow, I have to be using the 3 I have.  (my other 2 are a 1984 Indian compound at 50#, and a 1991 Oneida Aeroforce, currently at 60#, 65% LO).
I'm not quite tuned on the Oneida, and am now wanting to get this one up and shooting.  The whole reason for using stu's calculator, is to get me in the ballpark.   I'm not looking for a simple solution, I'm aware there is no such thing.   I just don't have the disposable income right now to go out and buy 6 arrows of one spine and hope they are close.
  my rest is adjustable from 3/16 past centercut to centercut.

  Rob D, if you tell me yours was a 1966 model, that'll be one heck of a coincidence, and i'll ask you if you remember the serial number.      :D    

if perhaps using the calculator isn't such a good idea, maybe someone can point me in the direction i should be looking for arrows?
  there's only 2 places here that i know of where i can get anything somewhat resembling customer service.  the small shop, the guy seems to think i should be using full length 600 spine carbons.  the other place is gander, and the guy there says with my draw i should be using 400 spine.  the guy at gander also asked why i was interested in having the arrows a full inch over my draw length.  between the two, i have no idea what i need.  i've also had the recommendation for 500 spine.  this is why i was trying to do research myself, especially after having seen the calculator advocated quite a bit while browsing the topics here.
  all i know is i'd like 3/4 to an inch past the shelf, so 31.25-31.5 inches, with a point weight of 125gr.  i'd rather not use wood. i'm willing to consider aluminum or carbon.  can someone please give me a few suggestions that should get me close?

[robtattoo]

A 600 spine carbon would be a good starting point for you.
Tell the guy from Gander to go boil his head. He knows nothing.

One thing to know about carbons, changing point weight doesn't affect spine narly as much as shortening their length.

Start off with a full length shaft & your 125gn point. If they show as being a little weak (Which they may, or may not do) cut the shaft down 1/16" at a time unil they fly right.

Try not to get too hung up on arrow length. Good flight is the ONLY thing you should be interested in.

Sell one of those compounds or the 35 pounder & buy a heavier bow too. 35# is frankly, waaay to light to be shooting at deer with. Legal or not. You really don't need a ton of money to get you a good 45-50# recurve. E8ay is loaded with older Bears, Shakespeares, Howatts etc for well under 2 bills.

[Thumper Dunker]

I'm with Rob/Rob on this one.
Same here.

[neargeezer]

Workaholic1
Being a long draw archer does confuse things. If you are drawing your bow 30.5” your 35# bow will become at least a 40# bow. Because the arrow remains on the string longer and thus has more time to absorb energy from the bow, you will be shooting with the same energy as someone shooting a bow drawn 28” and about 45#.
I have the same problem when trying to figure out what arrow shaft I need. I have found Stu’s newest calculator to get a fellow very close. I would then compare to Eastons chart at the pounds you pull at your draw length, probably 40#.
Be careful of jumping up in bow weight to much too quick with your long draw length. You are shooting a more efficient arrow than a fellow shooting a 40# bow at 28”. Most shorter and cheap bows could stack terribly at your long draw length. Enjoy what you have right now for awhile.
Best of luck

[neargeezer]

One other thing you might do is get a "test kit" from 3rivers or Kustom King. You get three different spines and only have to buy 3 shafts.