getting kind of close to tuned "i think"

[Aaron2k5]

I put on a velcro rug rest and started shooting straighter. My arrows are 32 inches long and I have a 29 inch draw. My bow is about 58 pounds at my draw.  2016 alums with the standard feathers that come with. I switched from 125 grain points to 100's just to see how they fly. They flew straighter, and if I'm correct indicates a weak spine. Should I go ahead and cut an inch off, and try my 125's again?

I tried searching for my next question. Can I use my tubing cutter and reamer to cut my arrows? And do I need new inserts or can I pull them out? Reference to this would be great.

[Bow Bum]

I cut aluminum with a tubing cutter and ream wth a razor blade. You can heat the hot-melt and pull the inserts to re-use them.

For reference. I'm pulling and estimated 49lbs at my 29.25 draw. I have very good tuning with 2018 aluminums and 150grains on the front end.

I bet your quite weak with those 2016's cut 32.

Hope that helps...

Regards,

Brian

[paperenginner]

You will have to remove the insert and I have never done that so I can't tell you how.  Any time I have shorten an arrow I have cut off past the insert and glued in a new insert.  A tube cutter will work on alum.  I have used them before.

My biggest concern is "straighter".  Normally you cannot see a change in spine unless you are bare shafting.  You indicated that you changed to a velcro rest and started shooting straighter.  To me that indicates that your nock point was wrong before and by changing rests you changed the nock point and improved your arrow flight.  

It is possible that you need to change your arrow length but I doubt that you would see a change with such a small tip weight change.  To me 2016 are pretty weak spine for a 58# bow.  That arrow spines at .500 inches and no matter what the tip weight would indicate a weak spine for your bow.

This is just my two cents.  I am by no means an expert but have work some in this area with my bows.

Good Luck

[Hermon]

Just heat up the end of the shaft and the insert will pull out.  Even if they were epoxied in, a little heat will get them out.  If they were epoxied in, I would buff off any old epoxy and then glue them back in.  No need to buy new inserts.

[FrankM]

I'd put a field tip in and heat that. Then you don't scorch your shaft.

[Aaron2k5]

Good pointers, I'm going to cut off quite a bit and if that doesn't please me im going to buy some 2020s and maybe go for a heavier tip. I have a feeling I have to start all over.

[RM81]

An inch is a lot to cut off at once.  I'd cut smaller sections off.  You can always cut off more, but you can't put it back on.  I also think a 2018 would be better than a 2016 for that weight.  My 56# Thunderstick III shoots a 2018 pretty good with 125grns up front.  Or like you said, go with a 2020 and load up the front.

[Bowmania]

NO you should not cut.  How did you determine, "They flew straighter, and if I'm correct indicates a weak spine."?  Are you bare shafting or shooting through paper?  Tell me that and I'll tell you whether you should cut.

Deflection on a 2016 is .531 and in my opinion you can cut all you want and I don't think that arrow will be stiff enough.  Use it as a learning tool.

Bowmania

[Aaron2k5]

I'm going to take your advice bowmania and maybe give them to my little brother. I was thinking about 2020's and 175 grains full length and bare. I'll fine tune and fletch. I want to go a little stiff so I can always add weight as an option. ( atleast this is what I've been lead to believe) Good plan?  I took the arrows down twice and it didn't do much. Thanks for the advice guys
Also this is exciting in a way because I have been shooting pretty decent (in my mind) and can get even better!

Edit: what is a good looking traditional alum I can get at a decent price? Also, should I get some 5 inch feathers?