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Anyone experiment with .92 cent arrows for 50-55# bows?

Started by South MS Bowhunter, June 06, 2011, 08:50:00 AM

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Mike Mecredy

Mississippi... yes just another smooth object on the wood to cause heat and temper thrugh friction.  I can't explain when it been enough, it just looks stright and a bit glossy.
TGMM Family of the bow
USAF, Retired
A.C.B.C.S.

South MS Bowhunter

Everything I have and have become is due to the Lord and his great mercy.

SCATTERSHOT

3/8" birch dowels spine in the mid 80s mostly, and if you leave them long, use a heavy point, and/or sand the middle of the shaft, they will work fine.

You can buy them from American Woodcrafters for around $25.00/100.
"Experience is a series of non - fatal mistakes."

jonathan creason

I'm in dire need of some arrows, and I think these will fit the bill nicely.  That way I can save my cane for hunting arrows.  Only problem is I don't see 5/16" dowels on the woodcrafters site.  Everything there jumps from 1/4" to 3/8".  Where are y'all finding the 5/16" dowels?

Don Stokes

Folks, be very, very careful using hardware store dowels for arrow shafts. They can be dangerous if you don't know how to read the grain properly. A defect that may not look that bad could put a broken shaft through your hand. Not for the beginner.
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.- Ben Franklin

Rob DiStefano

QuoteOriginally posted by jonathan creason:
I'm in dire need of some arrows, and I think these will fit the bill nicely.  That way I can save my cane for hunting arrows.  Only problem is I don't see 5/16" dowels on the woodcrafters site.  Everything there jumps from 1/4" to 3/8".  Where are y'all finding the 5/16" dowels?
"woodcrafter", not "woodcrafters"
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

Carpmaster

QuoteOriginally posted by Don Stokes:
Folks, be very, very careful using hardware store dowels for arrow shafts. They can be dangerous if you don't know how to read the grain properly. A defect that may not look that bad could put a broken shaft through your hand. Not for the beginner.
I was wondering about this, what's the best inspection method?  I'm really interested in putting some of these together for stumping and all around practice, but am a total wood arrow newb.

SCATTERSHOT

"Experience is a series of non - fatal mistakes."

Mike Mecredy

TGMM Family of the bow
USAF, Retired
A.C.B.C.S.

Don Stokes

Carpmaster, I recommend buying arrow shafts from a reputable dealer before going to dowels, to get some experience and learn what good grain looks like. When you learn to read the grain, then you can select your own. BTW, ramin wood is the most difficult grain to read of any species out there, and I don't recommend it to anyone. I've seen it shear off and stick in the target twice! That happened to Dan Quillian, and he quit using ramin after that. Ramin is so difficult to read because it's a tropical hardwood and doesn't have regular growth rings like most woods available to us.
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.- Ben Franklin

tecum-tha

$20 for a matched set of Doug Fir shafts, 2x 4.5" feathers cut out of one full length one for 30 cents per full length feather, makes 45 cents for 3 fletch, field point 30 cents, plastic nock 15 cents, 20 cents for finish, thread and glue.
Result: A good arrow for $2.80 a piece. Even lower with self-nock.
There is a reason why wood arrow shafting costs more than "hardware store dowels". Grain orientation, imperfections, spining and weighing costs labor and leads to more "waste wood" in the production process. This must be paid for. I have seen too many hardware store dowel arrows arrive at the target as two arrows. And those guys were damn lucky with their bowhand. With the cost of a hospital stay in the US, I would never consider hardware store dowels. But to each his own.


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