rose wood arrows

[nybowman]

does anyone know wher i can get info on making my own rose wood arrows. also wwhat kind of spine can I expect?

[Pat B]

Check out Ferret's site. You can probably get 100# if that's what you need but 50# to 60# would be no problem, even less.      Pat

[Jim now in Kentucky]

do you mean "rosewood"  or  arrows made of  wild  rose  shoots?

[nybowman]

MADE OUT ROSE SHOOTS.
IT WILL BE MY FIRST TIME MAKING ARROWS AND HAVE ALOT GROWING IN MY AREA.

[ironrhino]

well i can tell you i spent an afternoon carefully cutting rose shoots (during which time i almost lost an eye!!!! literally had a bleading hole where my eyelashes are, the good Lord didn't want me blind YET!) ANYWAY... and then found out as i scraped them all down they were WAY too narrow to make arrows...! so be sure that the shoots that you cut are a whole lot thicker (1/8-1/4 at least) than whatever finished shaft your using as comparason... and i have NO idea what kind of thickness/spine ratio there is... so We're probably going to have to wait on the ferret, for this one!

[Jim now in Kentucky]

Jawge makes some of these. Have you checked out his site? I have made one. Don't know if I even spine checked it, but it flies well from my 44# bow.

Ironrhino is correct about the size. The one I cut was about 1/2" in diameter. I'd like to try some more. Push the thorns off sideways from the fresh shoots. Don't know how well that would work on winter ones.

[Pat B]

Yes, Do be very careful collecting rose shoots. Wear good leather gloves and a heavy shirt and maybe even eye protection.     You do not want the young shoots. Collect the ones that the bark has at least started graying out(2nd year growth) and up to about 1'2" in diameter. They will shrink as they dry and when you remove the bark. You also want them to be pretty dry before removing the bark or they will check(spilt).
   When you collect the shoots, remove the thorns as Jim suggested, do a initial straightening, bundle them and set them aside to dry. After about a month you should be able to work them. Some folks like to periodically unbundle the shoots and straighted a bit every week or so.  Also collect way more than you think you will use. Not every one will make a good arrow. There are surprises under the bark of some. Also, you want to have a good supply to last a while. My utility room has probably 100 hardwood shoots in bundles drying and at least that many in my work shop that were from the last few years. Even though I constantly collect shoots during the winter, any time I want to make an arrow I have enough, ready to work, at hand. I have played around with rose shoots but prefer sourwood shoots and also differant types of shrub dogwoods and viburnum. These are just my preferance. Rose makes excellant arrows.   Pat

[Pat B]

That was supposed to be...up to 1/2" in diameter, not 1'2".  LOL
   For the larger diameter shoots and to adjust spine I use a cheap thumb plane I got from a hardware store for less than $10. The spine with shoot arrows doesn't seem to be as critical as with store bought parrallel shafts. The taper can reduce the spine weight(not physically) by as much as 15#. Rose shoots don't have as much taper as other hardwood shoots so you probably won't have as much spine leeway as with other hardwood shoots that have more natural taper.      Pat

[Tater John]

Karumba!  The shoots I gathered recently were the pretty green straight ones. I skipped over the woody lookin' ones but thats OK, I got kids.

Rusty

[Shawn Leonard]

I cut Mickey(Ferret) a bunch right here from NY and they were from 3/8ths. to 1/2". He instructed me to keep them 36"s in length as well. He had me bundle them in groups of 8-10 shoots and tie them tightly together every 5-6 inches. I picked the straightest I could find to start with and tying them together tight kept them fairly straight. You should check out his site. I would not strip them down, I believe once they were dry you run them thru a hole in a rock or washer or something with an inside dia. of 3/8ths. of an inch and than straighten by using heat from the stove top. I believe he got ones that spined between 35-55#s. Shawn

[MikeC]

If you have the rosewood go for it but it's about my last pick for a self arrow.
I've made my fair share and nothing beats cane, nature's graphite shaft material.  Sourwood is good as is arrow-wood (viburnum).  If you can get it oceanspray is good also.  But nothing beats cane.

I know some guys like to strip the bark layers after they dry, but it's a real PITA, much easier when they are fresh, just leave them long so you can cut the ends as they will split a little.

Good luck

[Pat B]

Rose will not only split on the ends but I believe it will spilt along the shoot. I had that happen to a viburnun arrow I made. It didn't effect the flight but some wouldn't like the look. I don't mind it and prefer character arrows as much as character bows.   Pat

[MikeC]

Pat...Yep some do split along the shoot but that is why you harvest allot of shoots.  I've only had a couple split down the shoot out of dozens and it's a loose I'm willing to accept.  The bark layers come off so much easier when they are fresh.  If it's a nice day I just do it right there where I harvested them, no mess to cleanup at home, all you need are good gloves and a good sharp knife.  I use the back of the knife blade to get the thorns off.

[Pat B]

Mike, You would know better than I about rose because I haven't done many. I know with other hardwoods, some will check if the bark is removed too quickly and it doesn't effect others at all. I think for each of us interested in making primitive equipment, we can gets lots of info from others but ultimately we should do our own experimenting and see what works best for us.
   I have enough primitive shafting material that grows aroung where I live that I have opted to use other materials besides rose for shafts. Those thorns can be nasty. I don't think I have harvested 1 rose shaft without drawing blood. LOL   Pat