Beating a dead horse~ (Douglas fir tips)

[Lone Ranger]

I have looked at many many threads on the Douglas fir shafting and I am going to order a few dozen. I am just about to leave the house and head in town to have my bow weighed at my draw length.

my question: What is the best way to tune arrows to the bow?

I know I want to shoot 125gr zwickey eskimos and practice with 125 gr field points (is that not obvious?)
I know I will be shooting 3 x 5" AMG shield cut feathers.
I know I will be using 11/32 classic nocks

After I have my bow weighed there is enough info floating around on here to figure out what spine test kit I should order and start tuning from there.

tuning = tapering for knocks and points and bare shafting. cutting down the arrows as I go and re tapering for points and shooting some more. Now I can see that I will be able to have more than one spine shoot well with my bow by using a lighter tip with a longer arrow or a heavier tip with a shorter arrow (even within the same spine range) since I am set on using 125gr points will I not have equally well flying arrows from different spine weights?

thanks for the help~


L.R.     :confused:

[Overspined]

You are smart to check your set-up measurements as you start searching for the right arrows. If you are looking at wood arrows there are a few considerations.  If you bare shaft test them and they are not close to what you will need they will likely break when the hit the target. Do you have a taper tool so you can adjust arrow length? What kind of bow are you shooting, is it cut to center? What is the bow draw weight at your draw length? With a little more information you will be directed very close on this site to what will likely work.

[Lone Ranger]

Thanks, I am checking draw weight now at my draw length (29") I am going to get a taper jig (to use with my sander)for points and nocks. I am shooting an old Bear Kodiak Hunter and I am thinking it is not as stout as it says it is. I believe it is cut to center and I have velcro on the rest and sideplate. Will let you know what weight it pulls shortly.

L.R.

[Bjorn]

That bow is cut to center if that helps.

[lpcjon2]

i shoot surewoods full length with zwickeys. My longbow is 70# @30 and the arrows are 85-90# and they fly perfect. I also have 3-5" shield cut goose feathers. Hope that helps you out a bit. I dont get crazy with micro techy tuning with wood shafts. I shoot them and make the minor adjustments,in my opinion wood is flexible and forgiving for me. You wont be disapointed with the fir shafts. One tip make sure your tapering tool has a sharp blade in it, the fir tends to cut a little rough and i sand mt nock and point tapers after cutting with 200grit sand paper.good luck. Tim

[NoCams]

If you start with a spine 15lbs over what your bow weight is at your 29" draw you will be close. That centershot Bear can shoot a heavier spine than a longbow that is not cut to center. Tip weight is not a factor at 125gr but with a 29" draw your arrows most likely will be close to full length. Might want even go 20lbs over in case you are right on and need arrow length. If 15lbs over is weak and you have to cut to stiffen your arrows might wind up short and you cannot go down in point weight since you are already at 125.

[DannyBows]

I just received 2 dozen Surewoods yesterday, my first woodies since I got back into shooting. You're going to love them. Couldn't believe how straight they are. Simply beautiful shafts.

I talked to Steve at Surewood for awhile when I ordered and I decided to have him do the tapers for me as I only have the basic pencil type sharpener. It's well worth the extra few cents per shaft. Eventually I'll get a proper taper-tool.

[Lone Ranger]

ok, it draws 41#'s @ my 29" draw. Sorry for the long delay.

since it is cut to center and the strike plate may be 1/32 of an inch figgure 15#'s over so a 55-60# shaft to start? should I get a test pack with 3 spine weights? 50-55, 55-60, and 60-65?


thanks your help its invaluable!

L.R.

[lpcjon2]

I would just go with 55-60# they are 31" at full length I beleive and that would give you an inch to an inch and a half to play with. If you need to stiffen it up.jmho others may say different.

[snakebite]

I'm going to say 55-60# also. Should have you in the ballpark. I also shoot 125gr. bhs. but I shoot 145 gr. target tips. bhs seem to weaken the spine a little more, but hay thats just what works for me. Have fun playen...

[Lone Ranger]

Thanks for the help!!!

[Rob DiStefano]

surewoods are my current fave woodie shafting.  i love 'em!  i'm able to fly well a wide range of arrow spine ranges and types from all my longbows.  for most folks, you'd all be best served by getting yerself a surewood spine test kit.  it'll really pay for itself in no time at all, and you'll know *exactly* what spine range(s) work best for you and yer bow(s).

a "coral snake" surewood ...  :D

 

[DannyBows]

That's a pretty cool arrow Rob!

[Doc Nock]

Anything Rob does, its with flair!

Now, Rob, I thought you shot all low profile nanners?   :confused:

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by Doc Nock:
... Now, Rob, I thought you shot all low profile nanners?    :confused:  

only on carbons, and sometimes but not always.    

for woodies i like the aesthetic look of 5.25" burnt shields with a goodly twist to 'em.  

[Doc Nock]

yer just full o surprises, Rob!  

Here I just got someone to chop me some 4" low profile nanners to be like my hero...and they are going on some carbons!  

     

[dragonheart]

Rob that is a one cool looking "coral snake" arrow.  You build some awesome looking sticks for your bows.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by dragonheart:
Rob that is a one cool looking "coral snake" arrow.  You build some awesome looking sticks for your bows.

thanx for your very kind words.  my woodies are really basic - a simple wipe on clear coat, sometimes over a stain, for 3 to 4 coats.  all the cresting is done with sharpie pens and a silver pentel liner.  my "cresting machine" is a screwgun with some neoprene tubing as a coupler to the arrow nock or point end.  :D   all this makes for a quick arrow finish that looks ok from a few feet away, but would never win any arrow building contests.