Daly's sealant and laytex cresting paint???

[Firstarrow]

Ladies & gentlemen,
I currently use daly's sealant to seal my arrows, and have a near endless supply of laytex paint to crest with.

Any good ideas to adhere the laytex to the Daly 's and top seal after that?

Thanks in advance,

Rich

[Ray_G]

Rich,

Have you given your cresting paint a try on a Daly's finish?  I use acrylic paints for cresting on Daly's Pro Fin with no problems and then over coat the shaft, including the cresting, with Pro Fin after a day or two for the acrylic to be dry.  Again, no problems.  What type of paint is it that you refer to as latex?

If you have any dowels or unacceptable shafts, you could try a test run with your combos.

[snag]

I like to dip the crown and paint the cresting on first. Then dip in ProFin. Duco will adhere to the Profin beautifully and the Profin protects the cresting.

[rraming]

You guys buy it directly from Daly's? Kind of sad they sell it cheaper than anyone else.
How many coats do you need to dip and do you sand between them?

Over latex cresting paints and Gasket lacquer I spray water based poly (Varathane)  but I coat twice after cresting. If that helps!

[Firstarrow]

Thanks for the response guys. Has any one tried poly over daly's?

[NoCams]

rraming,
I do 3-4 dips and lightly sand / scuff with 320 grit paper between coats. Cause that was what snag taught me ! Love my Dalys Profin.

[luvnlongbow]

With Pro-Fin as the finish coat there is no need to apply poly or anything else. Pro-Fin is a very durable and resileant finish. Like Snag I crown, then crest, then seal, sand, and recoat. I have not had any issues doing woods this way. I also use acrylic paints to crest. I have done Aluminum using Pro-Fin to cover crown and crest then fletch again with no issues. More to your question, Ray G is on the money. Try your combinations on dowels or unaceptable shafts then you will know for sure.

Joe

[bigbadjon]

I prefer to lay a clear coat down and sand off the lifted grain before dip capping. Then I usually coat over that and then crest. You'll know if one of your paints are incompatible this way, if the last layer drips off when you dip the finish is incompatible over the paint. If your paint wrinkles it is incompatible over the finish. That has been my finding anyway.

[Ray_G]

Originally posted by bigbadjon:
I prefer to lay a clear coat down and sand off the lifted grain before dip capping.

I do my first coat the same as bigbadjon.  After a light sanding to break the surface oxidation and smooth, I stain if I am going to want a stained shaft, dry and then dip in Pro Fin.  This seals the shaft.  Once dry, I use woven abrasive pads to buff any lifted grain down and etch the Pro Fin.  If I am going to crown dip with paint, I do it now as it will only need one coat because the wood is sealed.  Once dry, I crest with acrylic paint.  Two more dips with Pro Fin and they are ready to nock and point taper.

As stated by luvnlongbow, Pro Fin is a very durable finish.  Unless you gouge the wood, the arrow is sealed.  I have been shooting mine for over two years and some show scuffing but no finish wear off.  I don't shoot 3D - just back yard bales and roving in our desert mountains which does tend to break a few because of all the rocks.  As Sunset Hill told me, "It is the reason to build more arrows!"      

[rraming]

Thanks for the info!

[snag]

Daly's is a great consistancy right out of the jar. I'll dip once, sand with steel wool, then dip a couple of more times. It is compatible with acrylics.

[dragonheart]

Has anyone used Saunders NPV on the Profin for an adhesive?

Ray,

Is your first coat on the shaft with Daly's profin?  Then sand and crown dip?  Just wanted to make sure I am going to give this finish a try.

[Ray_G]

Jeff,

I sent you a PM about several things.