SHOULD I CUT MY ARROWS

[wildcat hunter]

For the 1st time in my life I ordered and  just got 12 new Easton arrows, 500's, 32" long. I shoot 30", I tried one with a 100 gr point, in my 2 Herters bows and it shot perfectly in both bows, one 37# the other 45#. Should I cut them to 30" or let them at 32". I don't want to mess up the spine because they shoot good the way they are. I'm new at this and don't want to screw up $80.00 worth of arrows.

[Blaino]

this is what i use to tune my bows.   http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf
 
since you said you were new i would print it out and read it 2 or 3 times. at least thats what i did... if you draw is 30" then don't cut you arrows to 30".  i draw 30" and my arrows are 30.75" thats just me though.

[wildcat hunter]

Thanks, I should mention when I draw I usually shoot before I get to my anchor point because I've been shooting 28" arrows and I'm cautious about the arrow coming off the rest. With the 32" arrows I'm confident this won't happen. I'm printing out the papers as I write, thanks.

[bolong]

If you are happy with the way they fly, it won't hurt a thing if they are 2" longer than your draw length. With your draw length, I wouldn't go less than 31". At 32" you will just have a little more weight.

[bolong]

Wrong forum for that question though.

[wildcat hunter]

Thanks for your answer. Wrong forum ? Sorry, The question was about shooting - I think.

[gorillabows]

bolong hit it right on the head, if it works dont mess with it. This is the way it was done before the traditional world got over run with ex compound shooters who brought that mentality with them to trad. Great to have them, but they want to tinker to the inth degree. If it works, use it.

[Terry Green]

Wildcat...this is more about arrows...and you will get more off the PowWow...this forum is more about the 'act of shooting'...and not so much gear....so I'm gonna move it so you'll get more exposure and answers.

   

[JParanee]

Leave them be

[wildcat hunter]

Thanks for the move.

[saumensch]

Originally posted by wildcat hunter:
Thanks, I should mention when I draw I usually shoot before I get to my anchor point...

In my opinion before thinking more about arows you should work on getting to youre anchor. Without a true anchor point, theres no consistency and therefore no arrow can be truely tuned to youre for.
Just my 2cent.

[PaddyMac]

If you are truly a masochist you can bare shaft. If they fly straight, leave them alone. If they nock left, shorten them. If they nock right add weight.

And then start weighing the hundreds of other variables.

When you are drooling and muttering incoherently, go back to where you are and shoot the arrows that fly right.

After 14 weeks or so of certified madness my 31" 5575 GTs will bare shaft straight at 25 yards so that I'm only looking at the nock.

[KentuckyTJ]

Cut one and find out. Don't cut them all. I am more concerned about the 100 grains up front though if you will you be hunting with these. If targets only I retract this statement.

[TRAD101]

I like to have a minumum of 1 inch of arrow out front at full draw so as not to destroy my knuckle should I slighty over draw.

[mikebiz]

I agree with saumensch.  I think it's more important that you work on form right now than worrying about arrow length.  A key to consistent and accurate shooting is repeatable proper form.  By that I mean doing all the things involved with drawing and releasing the string the same way every time, all the time.  If you are snap shooting without reaching your anchor there is no way that you can achieve that consistency.  Your shooting will suffer and like saumensch you won't be able to effectively tune those arrows.  Good luck.

[JamesKerr]

I would not cut them if my draw was 30" I have a 28" draw and shoot a 30 1/4" arrow and they fly fine