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HELP!!!!!!

Started by Roaring Reds, September 01, 2011, 03:56:00 AM

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Roaring Reds

Hi, i recently had 2 dozen arrows shipped from the states. Gt trad 3555. Cut to 30 inch and i pull 29. The bow is a Big jim thunderchild 56 inch and 50 pounds at 28. I had 100 grain and 50 grain inserts shipped as well. When bareshafting it hit nock left and nock high. Majorly!!! When fletched they flew bad. I removed the heavy inserts and installed the ones that come with carbons and put 145 grain tip on and flew ok fletched but not bare. I want to use these arrows as there about 200  a dozen to get here. I also want to shoot more than 145 up front. Please help....Thanks, John    :archer:

gto_guy

John,
        Get your nock up and down right first and then worry about left and right.Lower your nock a little at a time until they hit good up and down and then see what the left and right look like.Also are you left or right handed?I`m guessing right handed and looper is dead on I believe you need a 125 head and the standard insert.
62" Checkate Hunter II 43lbs at 28
64" Dry Ridge longbow 58lbs at 28
62" Vermillion River longbow 57lbs at 30
58" Lost Creek Life Ender 50lbs at 28

Looper

I hate to tell you this, but I think you'll need 125 grain head for them to fly like they are supposed to. You needed the 5575.

Hopefully you'll be able to find someone in New Zealand to trade with you.

Of course, a 435 grain arrow travelling 200 feet per second will slay a ton of critters.  You might want to avoid big hogs and big red stag, though.

Roaring Reds

Thanks for the replys. No matter how low i go with the nock they still kick slightly high. How much spine will i gain by cutting away half inch? I really need more weight up front. the 5575 i had bareshafted nock high and to stiff at full length so i assumed i needed 3555.   Thanks for the replys and keep em coming, John

Looper

Your nocking point is probably too low, and the arrow is kicking up off the shelf.  If you aren't already, use two nocking points, one above and one below.  If you don't, the arrow can slide down the shaft on release and give you all sorts of weird flight problems. I'd start with the top nock at 3/4" and go from there.

Cutting 1/2" off will get you closer to having the 145s work, but they might still be a little weak.  You might need to add some weight to the back of the shaft.  You could go with 4x5" fletch and it'll get them a touch stiffer. I think 1/2" will equal 5-6 pounds of spine.

Another thing you can do is add a footing.  Basically you take an aluminum shaft of the right size and slide it over the end of your shaft.  If you left your shafts 30" and added a 4" footing, you'd be able to go up to a 175 grain head for a total arrow weight of around 525 grains. With the bigger diameter of the aluminum, you'll need to adjust your nock height again. I can't remember offhand what size fits over a 3555, but if you use the search function, you should find it.

Charlie Lamb

When borderline in spine every aspect of tuning becomes more critical. Make sure your nocks aren't too tight for one thing.

Brace height is also critical. Mess with that. Sometimes raising the brace a half inch performs miracles.

Now it's time to set your nocking point height... might as well start a quarter inch above level.

If the bow shelf is cut to center or close then try building out the side plate a little. It can help a lot with slightly weak shafts.

If you are shooting into a backstop that has a "grain" (directional layers or hay bales) you can get false reading. Shoot into a 3D target or dirt bank.

Also consider a different method of tuning... I'll provide links at the end of this.

  Footing sizes

  Bareshaft tuning
I think you'll find this method more reliable.
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

KentuckyTJ

If I were you I would email/pm/call Big Jim.
www.zipperbows.com
The fulfillment of your hunt is determined by the amount of effort you put into it  >>>---->

Frenchymanny

Big Jim will be back from hunting early next week.
Great advises from Mr Charlie Lamb right there!

F-Manny
Coureur des Bois
Big Jim: Buffalo Bows 62" 60@27 & 65@27 ThunderChilds 56" 62@27 & 62@27 Desert BigHorn 59@27
ML, Shrew &TC Knives
With a sturdy bow, a true shaft, and a stout heart, we journey forth in
search of adventure.

Dr. Saxton Pope

RM81

All of Charlie's advice is spot on.  2117's for the 3555's.  And Looper is right about adding some longer footing to stiffen them up a little.  Hope you can get them shooting straight.

smokin feathers

on the up and down if the double nock set and moving nock up doesnt work try shooting cock feather in or up, I have to do this with all my carbon arrows to get good flight out of my longbows especially a sarrels 56" that gave me lots of trouble.
Smoke

TGMM-FAMILY OF THE BOW

Dogboy900

Although they do not stock GT Trads you could try calling NZAP  nzap.co.nz  who are Gold Tip stockists.
Possibly in the short term you could get a variety of spines and have a play around. They are very helpful. I think Peter is the one to talk to but whoever answers the phone will be able to put you onto the right man.
Unfortunately we are not very well catered for in the trad area here in NZ  :(

maybe some internal weight, rope or cord might help stiffen them and get your weight up some.

ishoot4thrills

Exactly what Charlie said, in every way. His bare shaft tuning link is the one I use as well.
58" JK Traditions Kanati Longbow
Ten Strand D10 String
Kanati Bow Quiver
35/55 Gold Tip Pink Nugents @ 30"
3 X 5" Feathers
19.9% FOC
49# @ 26.75"
165 FPS @ 10.4 GPP (510 gr. hunting arrow)
171 FPS @ 9.7 GPP (475 gr. 3D arrow)
3 Fingers Under

BigJim

Do you shoot 3 fingers under? you might want to put a second nocking point on the bow. One above and one below.

bigjim
http://www.bigjimsbowcompany.com/      
I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.


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