cutting my arrows for my draw length

[David Dumke]

I had my draw length taken today and had the guy test the poundage at my draw.

48#@28

I was wondering if any of you would be so kind as to tell me what length I should have my arrows cut to make them optimal while shooting, thank you in advance.

[RM81]

If you're shooting broadheads, I wouldn't go any shorter than an inch past my draw length.  A lot of other factors go into arrow length than just draw weight and length.  Arrow length will also depend on spine and point weight.  Get what you think will be a little weak and shorten them as you tune.

[JRY309]

With aluminum and wood arrows there are enough spines available to end up with an arrow about an 1" or so past your draw length.With carbons I let my tuning determine their final length.I never just cut an arrow without shooting and tuning it first.

[Huntschool]

David:

First, have you decided what arrow you are going to use?  It doesn't sound like you have... or you would not be asking the question.  You see, each arrow will require a different length and point and insert weight to get it tuned.  That tuning will be done by cutting the arrow length until maximum performance is achieved.

What type of arrow are you thinking about shooting, aluminum, carbon or wood?

[Outwest]

I like my arrows to be a little longer.
About 2 1/2 inches longer than my draw length.
It seems to help with my sight picture.
Its just what I am used to.
To each his own, but I suggest not any shorter than 1 inch over draw length.

John

[David Dumke]

Originally posted by Huntschool:
David:

First, have you decided what arrow you are going to use?  It doesn't sound like you have... or you would not be asking the question.  You see, each arrow will require a different length and point and insert weight to get it tuned.  That tuning will be done by cutting the arrow length until maximum performance is achieved.

What type of arrow are you thinking about shooting, aluminum, carbon or wood?

I'm going to be shooting carbon, I might switch to wood later to go a bit more trad but I feel more comfortable with carbon in case i get a stump shot or anything but the target, haha.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I'd definitely go with a 3555, or 600 series spine and start out long with your tuning.

a lot depends on your bow set up, and if it's cut to center how much weight you are going to need up front.

[Ragnarok Forge]

I am a firm believer that you should get your spine close.  Then work from full length, cutting small sections off until you hit the perfect tune with the heads you want to use.  This assures you don't cut the arrows to short and can't tune properly. If the arrow is long and you decide to go up in head weight you have plenty to cut off to get back to the perfect tune.

Just my free 2 cents so take them for what their worth.

[David Dumke]

Well im shooting a hoyt game master td recurve and I bought it blindly, just wanted a bow bad. Not sure about the whole cut to center thing but I have been shooting 100 grain tips. This includes the rage heads and the other set of broadheads that I picked up. I was afraid too shoot different weights as I don't know how exactly to gauge what I should shoot yet. I will try and get as much information about the arrows im shooting currently tomorrow between classes or after. In the mean time I need my sleep. Thanks as always for being so helpful everyone.

[Charlie Lamb]

First things first.... ditch the expandables!!!! And 100 grains is going to be much too light. You may end up with as much as 300 grains up front depending.

[dragonheart]

Originally posted by Charlie Lamb:
First things first.... ditch the expandables!!!! And 100 grains is going to be much too light. You may end up with as much as 300 grains up front depending.

Listen to this man!  He knows trad bows.  Ditch the expandables, asking for a disaster shooting at game.

[RM81]

I second the GT 3555's.  Leave them full length to start with and try out a head in the 200grn weight range.  Or you can use the 100grn heads if you're using heavy brass inserts.

[Huntschool]

OK, I looked up the Game Master II.  I assume the Game Master is still an alloy riser... these guys are cut past center and are designed to shoot with a screw in elevated rest from what I can tell so you are real close to center shot depending on your rest.  This means, if I remember it right, you need a bit more spine in the shaft.

That being said.. I agree with Kirk and Lowell.  However, this may depend a bit on what type of rest you are shooting and where it is set.  

So, what kind of arrow rest are you using and where is it set in relationship to dead center of the riser?