how on earth to keep broadheads sharp in back quiver

[Justin Falon]

how do you folks keep broadheads sharp in a back quiver????

justin

[Ben Maher]

In a well made Hill style quiver like the ones I have got from Nate Steen [thanks Dave Mitchell !] and Craig at Howard Hill my arrows lay somwehat across my back rather than up my back and the pliable leather holds them in place and they don't rub together .
A piece of carpet in the bottom helps hold them in place too.

[Justin Falon]

carpet.  never thought of that!  I've tried foam, rice, oats, grass.  i will try carpet!

[bobzila]

i stuffed the bottom of mine with a full box worth of tissues scrunched up. it works well but i don't know how it would go in the rain.

[joe skipp]

The design of my backquiver collapses in the center of my back totally keeping the arrows from rattling.
I installed a 2" piece of round foam in the bottom just to widen it for easy arrow removal.

[Benny Nganabbarru]

They stay sharp-enough, alright! It is imperative that they collapse onto the arrows across the back.

[deaddoc4444]

I have been using A HH back quiver for over 35 years Never had an issue with the heads dulling.   The quiver ( if it is pliable and adjusted correctly to your back ) will colappse around the arrows  keeping tghem quiet and  still .  "IF" they move around a little   they are rubbing against heavy leather ( A STROP) or them selves ( JUST LIKE A "STEEL" that you sharpen carving knives with !  
    I have another one   ( NOT a HH BRAND )   but HH style that is almost as good and keeps the arrows  well

[Red Beastmaster]

I've been using back quivers for over 20 years and have never seen broadheads dull in one. Honestly, I don't see how it can happen.

Grasp several arrows in a bunch as they would be in a quiver. Squeeze them, roll them around between your hands, do whatever you want, you can't possibly make the sharp cutting edges touch each other. Only the very back corner of the broadhead can make contact with anything. And of course, the very front tip as it would rest on the bottom of the quiver. You would need pretty soft steel to dull these areas too much.

There may be some broadhead contact with the other arrows as you add or draw arrows out of the quiver. If you are doing it right I see that as minimal wear.

Maybe I'm missing something here but the problem of broadheads dulling in a back quiver has always puzzled me.

I make my own quivers from medium weight leather. It holds its' shape but squashes flat against my back. I don't lose arrows when I bend to tie my shoes. They hold tight and don't rattle but I still don't see how that could dull a head.

[Zradix]

I've heard of some people putting oatmeal or popcorn kernels(un popped) in the bottom.

[Paul Shirek]

Sorry but I have not found that they stay sharp well at all. My quiver bends in the center as described. However, when you take it off and move it around those heads will eventually touch and when that happens more than once or so, you have dull heads. The only thing that I could see working well is the little broadhead shaped leather booties for the heads. I hope you find a solution. And I hope you solution doesnt demand using duller than razor heads.

[YORNOC]

I also have no problem. Mine do not dull to any point that I would have to consider it. I put them in shaving sharp and when I take them out they are shaving sharp. I just ran one across my arm as we speak and I have a bare spot. I dont see myself out for a day roaming, pulling an arrow and having it razor sharp in the morning  and dull at lunchtime unless I have a quiver full of crushed stone or really soft steel?
All the above works great, I just have a sheepswool piece in the bottom of mine. But I wouldnt be against having nothing...other than to help quiet things down.
 IMHO its not nearly as big an issue as tons of people think.
 Damn, a serrated edge does some serious damage, so a  miniscule nick from broadheads contacting each other here or there on an otherwise honed edge is not going to cost you a game animal with proper shot placement.
Besides, after a good day afield, I love to sit by the fire watching tv dragging a handheld sharpener over my knives and broadheads. After a season?....sure. I think they would be dulled a bit, just hit 'em after the day is done and you will be FINE.

[lpcjon2]

I guess that depends on how many you carry in the quiver. If you go out with 3-4 arrows then the foam in the bottom works great. Just place them in one at a time. If you take more than the will probably rub together(I never shot that many at one sitting). And you can also use air soft pellets at the bottom.

[Nate Steen .]

great responses all!  I've used backquiver exclusively for over 25 years and haven't had dulling problems...  if your arrows lay over on an angle, the fletching interlocks and the broadheads don't twist against each other.  I use carpet in the bottom of mine to catch the tip of the head.  I sharpen with a file, lightly serrating the head anyway...

Actually, I tried different bowquivers over the years, (couldn't get used to them) and found that moving the arrow in and out of the foam/rubber broadhead covers would dull a head also.  so, the job of the hunter is to check his broadheads daily if hunting and touch up when needed...

To quote John Schulz when asked how he kept his broadheads sharp in a backquiver...."with a file, how do you keep yours sharp?"

[TxAg]

Dulling isn't the issue with my back quiver, it's NOISE. I've worked that leather over pretty good so that it's soft in the middle, but I still get arrows jostling around up top.... I usually tote about 6 or 7 arrows with one or two being judos.  

Any advice for quiet?

Broadheads like Deadheads can get to rubbing the cutting edge. I use to have sheep hide in my old quiver, that did a fine job of keeping that little tink tink sound down a to a small roar. I am having a hard time justifying buying a whole hide from the local supplier, he thinks they have golden fleece or something, when I only need two quiver size chunks. Or is it that he wants to fleece me out of my gold?

[deaddoc4444]

I use  LEXOL ( from Tandy Leather ) and Neats/Foot OilTo keep mine in  good  PLIABLE condition   which also water/proffs it ( some what at least )
 AND  Like I have said previously    I have NEVER had any Dulling problems  with mine  OR "CLINKING"  noise either. I have used  ( and sitll do to some extent ) Dead Heads and no rubbing on them  .    I carry  USUALLY  from   4 to 8 Broad heads , and "at least "  one blunt one judo  and one field point ( Usualy  at least two of each ) when ever I go out

[Justin Falon]

There is a tandy leather shop that carries Lexol where I live.  Stuff is not cheap so tomorrow I will take my quiver there and offer him some cash to treat my quiver with it!!!

[Hud]

I have used Lexol, but prefer the Montana Pitch Blend Dressing, and it goes a long ways, so buy a small bottle.

Clean leather with saddle soap, or Montana Soap Oil, then treat it with Montana Pitch Blend Dressing, with beeswax which adds water proofing.
   http://www.mtpitchblend.com/  

If the back quiver is made of medium weight latigo (horse hide), it will lay flat with a little use. Heavy weight leather takes some work to loosen it up. Cowhide should be medium to light weight, as it is stiffer, IMO.

The bottom is preformed, around a one inch thick piece of wood, cut to an oval shape, slightly smaller than the bottom with the sides stiched. Once it is hand sewn into place there is enough room for a dozen broadheads. Normally, I use a one thick piece of styrofoam, cut to fit inside. If you take the time to put the broadheads into the foam, your set. It will last for years. I have used small clippings from evergreen trees or bushes in the bottom.

If I was in the field, and noticed a rattle, I will remove the arrows and bend or flatten the leather and put the arrows back. If the chest strap is too loose, tighten it some to keep the quiver flat.