Delaminating limb..I could use a little advice.

[OzarkRamblr]

I picked up a Browning Nomad Stalker (52" 45# @ 28")
off the big auction site the other day. The bow was just as the seller described it, in great shape.

 I've shot it maybe a half dozen times. This afternoon while shooting with my wife, I noticed a weird vibration and sound.

Here's why...
 

 

This happened after I received the bow & I'm kind of wondering if there would have been any way to tell that it was fixing to happen. I've had short bows before & never had one do this, this is the first Browning I've ever owned though. Never had trouble with the Bears I've owned & their limbs aren't as wide as this Browning's is. The trouble  appears to have happened between limb laminations, it doesn't look like there is an actual break in the wood. Maybe a bad glue joint?

Anyone else had this trouble with an old Browning?
What kind of glue can I use to fix this? It's a good shooting old bow & I'd hate to have to shelve it. The gap doesn't open much more under brace & in fact I shot it a few more times after I discovered it to see if I could make it worse. The glue is going to have to be very runny I'm afraid, as I'm not sure I want to try and put it under a bunch of stress to open it up to get glue into it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[OzarkRamblr]

Wellll.... not the answer I was looking for, I appreciate the input Mike. This is my first experience with a delaminated limb. I was afraid with a short bow like this, that might be the case.

[Doug S]

I have had a few like this and one Widow from tip to almost to the wedge. I used smooth on. Heating each part as you said then I take a small sliver of fiberglass to push glue in. The thinner the sliver the better. I keep pushing until I am positive I have a bunch in there. Then I clamp it with small clamps on coins, depending on where on the where in the limb the problem is and how wide the area is. I also make sure the limb has the same curve as it is supposed to by bending it or wedging it in the right position while it dries. I haven't had any come back apart yet. The widow is still being shot today after 4 years.
Probably not the best way to fix it, it's just how I do it.
Also I use a sliver first to clean out any small old glue pieces.

[OzarkRamblr]

Thanks Doug, I appreciate the input.
Shane

[Dave Worden]

I fixed one that was split at the fade out with medium density super glue.  Stressed the crack open, poured in glue till it was coming out the other side (everywhere), let off the stress, added a couple of clamps.  Have shot a few hundred arrows out of it since.  Repaired another bow that delaminated from the tip almost to the fadeout using smooth-on.  That bow broke at full draw about six months later, but not at my glue job.  It just delaminated somewhere else.  Repairing a bow is a crap shoot.  If you repair it, don't shoot it without safety glasses for the first few hundred arrows.  As I wear glasses (safety lenses) all the time, maybe I'm more willing to try to save a bow than I should be!  As has already been mentioned, I doubt that there's a way to predict these failures (at least the first one).  The bow that delaminated a second time, I guess should be no surprise.

[Bjorn]

Like Dave says it is a crap shoot; but try an industrial CA glue called Loctite 420 (funny name!) anyway this glue is superior to any hardware store CA stuff I have tried.
It is not easy to find-Google for Loctite 420-sells for 22.00 for a small bottle-it will seep its way into any crack and delam. I have glued some very sorry looking limbs with this product.

[OzarkRamblr]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm going to try and fix it, maybe I'll get lucky.