Help on shot height

[team fudd]

as anyone who has read my posts knows I am relatively new to traditional archery.  I appreciate all the help I have received from fellow trad gang members and so I bring you another question.  I have noticed that some bows shoot to a lower point of aim than others. I have been trying on a few bows for size and have noticed that with some bows  I have to drop my bow arm farther to hit the same spot. I have a longbow that I have to hold relatively low with and an old recurve that I have to hold higher.  What is inherent in the bow design that makes them do that?  I hope I have explained this so that everyone can understand.  The reason I ask is that I seem to shoot bows much more accurately that I have to hold higher to hit my intended point of impact.  many thanks

[reddogge]

Could be some bows shoot flatter than others or just something as simple as different nocking point heights. You want the nocking point as low as possible and still get good arrow flight with no porposing of the arrow or feathers bouncing off the shelf.

[Hermon]

It may "feel" like you are holding lower with a longbow due to the way you hold it.  Most recurves have a higher grip that most longbows.  Just an idea.

[The Whittler]

Are you shooting FF string with the LB, and dacron with the recurve. This will make a diff.

[team fudd]

Quite honestly I have shot a number of bows and have seen all ends of the spectrum. To explain it better as I draw I use the point of my arrow as a reference.  I have a good idea with each bow I shoot just how far the point of that arrow sits below my intended target in order for me to hit it.  I shot a really severe reflex deflex bow with ff string that I did not drop almost at all as well as a 70 model grizzly with non ff.  I shoot a r/d longbow with ff that I hold much lower than both of those.  I thought maybe there was something inherent in the design or the tillering etc that made them that way.  Would love to hear more thoughts on this,  I am aware of how much a change in nocking point can raise and lower the point of impact.  All these bows are tuned for good arrow flight.  Thanks again for all information!

[Orion]

Three major causes.  Arrow weight and length.  If it varies, it will affect your point on placement.  Bow weight.  Heavier draw weight bows shoot flatter arrows.  Handle/grip desigh/placement.  Boiled down, some arrow shelfs are placed higher above the hand/pivot point than others -- tend to be higher on recurves, for example.  What you're experiencing is typical.  Different bows shoot differently.

[Friend]

Likely a signifcant contibutor for your improved shooting is that the arrow is closer to your eye thus reducing your site window.

[ChuckC]

friend. .   is it really ?  Are you changing anchor points ?    

The length of the arrow matters, but if you are using the same arrow, that doesn't matter.  I believe what Orion said about the handle design is most of it, with an arrow speed contributor.

Those are two completely different designs and the pivot point is different.  Try shooting the longbow first with a high wrist and then with a low wrist, palming type hold and see the difference right there, same bow, same arrow, different grip.

Learn what your bow does and use it as a tool.  We sometimes worry too much about little things.

ChuckC

[Friend]

ChuckC... the site window reduction in my explanation of possibilities, is that the shelf relative to the hand is higher thus narrowing the site window if the bow arm position remains constant.

[team fudd]

thanks all for your replies.  So if I am understanding this correctly the higher the arrow is above my hand the less I need to drop the point of my arrow in relation to my intended point of impact?  And yes Friend I think it has a lot to do with my accuracy because I can keep the arrow point in the lower reaches of my vision as a reference.  I have shot a very high speed extreme reflex deflex longbow that I shot lights out with and also a very old recurve the same way.  Both bows had same impact point but very different foot per second numbers but shot with exact same arrows so it must be in how high the shelf is in relation to the top of the hand.  I shot competitively for many years with a compound but this is only my second year with trad gear so I am learning constantly.  Thanks again one and all and keep opinions coming, each one helps.

[JamesKerr]

Team Fudd I would recommend that you just use one bow to learn on and learn to shoot instinctively. This will make it easier for you in the long run as you will be able to pick up any bow and with a few shots your mind will take over and you will hit what you look at.

[team fudd]

I have been shooting pretty much four or five times a week for the last two years and can do that now.  I won a small tournament two weeks ago with the aforementioned method. It is what I have devised over two years of analyzing and re-analyzing my shot process over and over.  I was a compound shooter for almost thirty years, competing at a high level for three, sponsored by hoyt, and I cannot seem to draw anchor and release in one smooth motion to save my life.  I know quite a few guys who can but I cannot.  My shot sequence takes much longer than most as I draw, get two solid anchors, the sight picture I want, check proper form, and release.  My results are more consistent accuracy and I will not go afield without feeling confident I can make a quick humane kill.  I have probably adopted some form of gap shooting but it works for me and has come at the expense of sending thousands of arrows downrange.  Many thanks again for everybodys input. It is great to hear all the different ideas and see if I can apply them to my problems.  I have a very limited amount of friends locally who shoot traditional so it is a learning process for all.