Spine Question

[Matthew Bolton]

After losing another arrow today stump shooting I finally came to the decision that I need to switch arrows. Dropping a ton of money into "traditional" carbon arrows and then losing/ breaking half of them is killing me. I shoot a 32 inch long 400 spined traditional only arrow from 3 rivers. Just for a starting point what would be a near equivalent? I am looking to stick with carbons. Thank you in advance

[Matthew Bolton]

Point weight is 250 if it matters.

[Todd Greenwald]

Try 55/75 GT Blems.  They are priced right and shoot good for me.

[Looper]

What head are you using?

[xtrema312]

X2 on the blems plus I don't break them ever. I just split them by Robin hooding them or real solid hits driving the insert back in the shaft if not footed with aluminum shaft; Even with that the damage is limited typically only a small length of the shaft.   With several other shafts I blow them up when I mess up and hit something real hard.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I just switched to Heritage shafts and cannot believe how tough these things are. i'm not sure what the comparison would be to a tapered 400, but i'd bet a heritage 250 would be pretty close...

the trick to any carbon shafts holding up well when hitting hard objects is using epoxy on the inserts.

[Night Wing]

When it comes to stump shooting; carbon arrows, aluminum arrows or wood arrows.....they will all do the following if you go stump shooting which means they will shatter, break, bend or you'll lose some of them.

Carbon arrows are not indestructible. I shattered quite a few of them when I shot a compound bow.

If you want to keep using carbon arrows, instead of going stump shooting, go "roving" instead. When roving; you shoot at a large leaf, a small stick, a pine cone, an anomaly on a dirt bank, etc.

This way, you won't break or shatter your carbon arrows. Unfortunately, nothing can prevent losing one of them.

I think I'm the only aluminum arrow shooter on TG who bowhunts with a thin walled 2212 target arrow. Since I know it's thin walled, it's not appropriate for stump shooting. I go roving with a 2212 and a backup 2212......just in case.       The one 2212 arrow I'm constantly shooting when roving, I haven't broken or bent it and it's been shot probably close to 1000 times. The arrow has been re-fletched three separate times.

Just food for thought.

[JimB]

I don't know how your arrows are breaking exactly but if you are going to stump shoot,footing them with aluminum will save most that frontal hit on hard stuff.You may still break an occasional one on a very hard,side slap shot but footing will save you a lot of broken arrows.I now foot all my carbons when I build them,regardless of brand.

[Matthew Bolton]

Well i mostly loose them when i hit a hard object and they fly off somewhere or the insert gets rammed back into the arrow.

[AdAstraAiroh]

I have been breaking my CX Heritage 250 carbons when I hit a hard target item and they split lengthwise about a 1/2 inch at the back nock insert. I can always tell because the stock inserted CX nock is blown out when I retrieve the arrow. I have lost 3 this exact way, in the last month.

I am considering either adding external aluminum support ring, or switching to a glue-in uni-bushing and G-nocks to reinforce this area.

Mark

[JimB]

Guys,footing the shaft front and back with a piece of aluminum shaft or the carbon collars from 3Rivers will stop all that.I normally use 1" in front and 1/4" in back.I'm not sure that the length is critical at all though.

That insert acts as a wedge.A simple collar prevents the spreading and splitting of the fibers.
 

[metsastaja]

[Earl Jeff]

JimB hit it right on the head. Footing a shafts with a good epoxy increases its strength by stopping the insert from pushing back into the arrow.