New to traditional archery

[Bamaguy2522]

Hello All,

I am thinking of making the switch from a compound to a recurve. I have always been fascinated by traditional archery. I have taken deer with a compound and now I would like to take one with a recurve. I know this won't happen overnight and that I will need to put time and effort into gaining the consistency that I will need to harvest game. I'm looking for suggestions on how and where to get started. I have been researching recurves and have come accross the Samick Sage. From what I have read, this seems to be a decent bow for the money. What about the Martin Jaguar? Does anyone have experience with either of these bows? Also, what draw weight should I begin with, I have always pulled between 55-60# on my compound. Would 45# be sufficient enough to learn proper form, as well as harvest game? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

[JV Rooster]

Welcome friend. 45# is plenty of bow. As for the curves I cant help you on that. I only shoot longbows but I also have read nothing but good things on both bows. Good luck and have fun. John.

[KodiakMag]

I'm partial to the old Grayling Bear bows. And    welcome to trad!

[Stumpkiller]

You will be amazed how a 45# recurve uses different muscles than a 60# compound.  I would say that's a good weight.  You need to develop different back and shoulder muscles.

Don't know those two bows, but Martins are generally good value and perform well.

[Bud B.]

Welcome bamaguy.


You'll receive lots of input if you ask. I'd search your state's game laws and find out what is the minimum pound required for archery. If you can go 40lbs that may be even better for just starting out. Holding 40-45 at full draw is not the same as a compound's letoff.

Try to find some trad guys or gals in your area and get with a shooter that you feel comfortable knows what he/she is doing. A good indicator is how accurate they shoot. Try to get your accuracy to a comfortable level too before hitting the woods. Start out with squirrel if you can.

Lots of pointers to be had but most of all start out right. A coach/mentor is a great way to go.

[KentuckyTJ]

Welcome from Kentucky.

[BowHunterGA]

Welcome to Trad! Personally I went from a 65# compound to a #55 recurve but it was a lot of work, some very sore fingers and probably took me a bit longer to transition than if I had been shooting lighter. 45# is probably a good weight, also I would recommend checking out the classifieds here and a few other sights to find a good used bow to start. I have even seen some good recurves sell for very resonable prices on the auction site that everyone loves to hate.

Also, find a local trad shoot to attend if you can. Usually find a lot of folks willing to let you try their bows to see what you like.

[DannyBows]

Welcome! That Samick Sage would make a great bow to start with, or stay with. You could later get heavier limbs for it if you move-up in weight. Samick makes some good bows these days, especially for the money.

The Martin should make a decent bowfishing bow later, if you think you might get into that. I assume it has fittings for accessories like a stabilizer. Just something else to consider.

Use the 'Search' function link above and search PowWow to see what folks have said about both bows in the past.

Have fun shootin'!

[Night Wing]

I've been bowhunting with trad (recurve) bows for the last 47 years and in all that time, the "heaviest" recurve poundage I've ever taken a deer with was 44#.

[Bamaguy2522]

Thanks for all of your replies! I really appreciate hearing everyone's opinion. Also,any suggestions on arrows, tip weights, or any other important information I will need along the way would be greatly appreciated. Keep the suggestions coming!

[Kituwa]

Where in Alabama are you at? I am close to Brewton so if you are not too far away i have several bows here you can shoot to try out.I have a Martin Jaguar even.
Matt

[Mudd]

Welcome to the tradgang family.

Enjoy your journey along with the rest of us.

God bless,Mudd

[BOWMARKS]

Welcome aboard, I would try to find a club or shop around that I could get my hands on as many as I could to see what fits you the best for a start up,and do not over poundage yourself 45# a good place to start.

[BRITTMAN]

Yeah I agree with 45# since you were shooting 55 to 60 # on the compound and you may find that 45# is all you will ever need anyway .

[gonzoso]

Okay so I just switched from compound to traditional and here is my advice.

Start light.  I was shooting 60-70 lb compound and got a 50 lb Samick Sage.  It is not really too much, I can shoot 100 shots easily now, but I had to break into it.  I didn't realize how much I would get into traditional archery.  I only bought my Samick Sage 2 months ago and I just bought a Bear Kodiak Magnum and I'm building a board bow.

Get a 40-45 pound Samick Sage and some carbon arrows, or try and find some cheap or free aluminums, so if you lose or break them you won't be out a whole lot of money.  Look up the Stu Miller calculator once you've picked out your bow and figure out an arrow set up that will work for you.

Get affordable carbon arrows.  Big Jim's, a sponsor of this site, has good deals including blemished arrows for reasonable prices and I think he will even cut them and glue tips for free.  http://www.shop.bigjimsbowcompany.com/Arrow-Shafts_c21.htm

Get a Bitzenburger fletching jig so you can glue your own fletching on if you don't have one already.  I got mine for 33$ at an online auction site.

Shoot the heck out of your affordable Samick, it's a great bow!  I love mine, it was a great value.  I don't like cheap stuff, this bow is made well for the money.  But like anything, getting into traditional archery involves more than just the purchase of the bow.  Arrows, glove, strings, etc cost money.

Once you get into it though you will find you can make your own stuff and keep costs down.  

For example I made a string jig with a piece of scrap 2x4 and some nails I had sitting around.  I bought 20$ worth of b50 and I won't ever buy strings again and my grandkids will probably inherit the rolls!(I'm only 26 and have no kids)

I've been collecting turkey feathers and will soon be making my own feathers with the jig I'm making, and will be trying my hand at arrow making this winter.

If you're handy and savvy this can be a thrifty and time consuming hobby and you'll learn lots of stuff.  

Versus taking your compound bow to the bowtech and paying him to do stuff to your space bow and having to buy all new stuff all the time.

[Bamaguy2522]

Hey guys, great info! It turns out my draw length is 30". I'm going to go with a 40# sage, this should put me around 45# at full draw. I have also recently found out that a work colleague of mine is a traditional rancher. He has given me masters of the bare bow 1,2, and 3. Lots of great information on those DVDs. Anymore advice is always welcome. How do you guys choose between shooting instinctively or using the gap Method etc? Also, how do you guys choose what grain tips to use?

[Bud B.]

Heavier tips weaken the dynamic spine. Lighter ones strengthen the dynamic spine.

As far as shooting instinctively or gap, start close to the target. Get good at close range, say 5 yards. Move back at five yard intervals and get good at each stage before moving back farther. I prefer 15 and under for hunting.