Author Topic: Attaching a handmade broadhead to shaft? (Read 787 times)

**DONOTDELETE** · « **on:** July 12, 2007, 07:05:00 PM »

I looked under the "How-To's" and couldn't find a tutorial on this. I am getting some beautiful Damascus broadheads that I want to put on some sitka spruce shafts. How do I go about this? Do I measure the width of the head and notch the shaft against the grain, not with it? How about sinew and the use of it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, David

Greg Stallion · « **Reply #1 on:** July 12, 2007, 08:39:00 PM »

I've always cut across the grain! Notch the shaft so that the points set were you want them to and then wrap with sinew. After the sinew starts to dry...become clear...I top coat with carpenters hide glue. It seals the sinew and gives you a little bit more weather restisance.
Who made your damascus broadheads?
Hope this helps
Greg Stallion

KILLER B · « **Reply #2 on:** July 12, 2007, 08:47:00 PM »

Check the how to rescources it's the fifth one down.

Bobby Urban · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2007, 06:42:00 AM »

Cut across the grain for beter strength. Pay close attention to the transition area and make them as low profile and smooth as possible. This area, more than the head, is the cause of bad penetration with stone and trade points IMO. Trade points are a little easier to work with than stone because of their consistant thickness.

Bob Urban

Shakes.602 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2007, 06:47:00 AM »

And an Arrow "Spinner" of Some Kind to True the Arrows Up.

the Ferret · « **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2007, 09:00:00 AM »

Use this tute from the how to section. Exactly the same only you are cutting the slot for a flat tang instead of a tapered tang. Pay close attention to the pics on alignment and spinning.It's really easy, and yes cross grain will help prevent the shhaft from splitting when you hit something hard like bone.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000080

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2007, 09:05:00 AM »

There's info on my site too. It's in the "How to". Something to consider is if you use selfnocks, they are cut perpendicular to the grain. If you put the broadheads perp to the grain they will be vertical. I never liked that so I always put them in with the grain. I hit enough wood with them, LOL, didn't matter then. Jawge

**DONOTDELETE** · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2007, 02:31:00 PM »

Thanks guys. I am getting the heads from Doug Campbell. Anyone here have some of his heads?

Ferret and George thanks for the links. I will take a close look.

the Ferret · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2007, 05:02:00 PM »

Doug makes an awesome head. Heck you might as well order a matching knife while you're at it

**DONOTDELETE** · « **Reply #9 on:** July 13, 2007, 05:44:00 PM »

You're trying to get me in trouble with the wife now, Ferret!

**DONOTDELETE** · « **Reply #10 on:** July 13, 2007, 06:24:00 PM »

I was looking on a site to get some sinew. They had listed "Gut Hafting"...? It was listed along with artifical sinew. They said it dries clear for "that traditional look" I believe is the way they said it. Will this stuff be a good choice or is there another recommendation?

Roughcountry · « **Reply #11 on:** July 14, 2007, 09:58:00 AM »

I just mounted some stone points I got from Doug.

I didn't have sinew so I used kevlar thread coved with a very light coat of clear epoxy. I wanted the least amount of bulk for penetration.
Not very traditional but thats what I had.

The sharp edge of the heads dosn't bother kevlar thread much.

snag · « **Reply #12 on:** July 14, 2007, 11:55:00 AM »

Kevlar thread...where do you get that? Sounds strong...doesn't sound very traditional though. Nothing wrong with it mind you! I'm not the traditional police. But I was trying to keep it more low tech I guess you'd say.

Roughcountry · « **Reply #13 on:** July 14, 2007, 03:44:00 PM »

Nope, not to traditional. The idea was though, I spotted guys using silk thread on self nocks to get the strenth needed.

I get it from Jonas Taxidermy supply and it's strong enough that I can't break it with my hands pulling on it, you'd loose fingers before it breaks.

I just figured the less bulk the better the head will penetrate, pretty sure Crazy Horse woulda used it if he'd had it

Pat B · « **Reply #14 on:** July 14, 2007, 11:18:00 PM »

I use sinew, artificial sinew or silk thread to haft points. I usually set the wraps with super glue.
3Rivers sells silk thread.
Gut hafting material is very strong but I believe it is too thick(bulky) for hafting points. As was said above, make the transition between the shaft and point as smooth as possible. I usually do a 5deg taper, like for a glue on point, slot it and haft the point. After everything is lined up, I use a sharp razor to make that transition even better then seal the wrapping. Pat

tippit · « **Reply #15 on:** July 15, 2007, 02:01:00 PM »

Doug sure makes some incredible heads. Kinda like Woody's stone heads...almost too pretty to use. Then again a little blood don't harm them

Doc

tippit · « **Reply #16 on:** July 15, 2007, 02:16:00 PM »

You can even mount trade points to carbon or aluminum shafts. Here are a couple of mine glued into inserts. They are tough too! Doc

JEFF B · « **Reply #17 on:** July 15, 2007, 03:07:00 PM »

wow!!! jeff they are awesome i like.

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #18 on:** July 15, 2007, 03:14:00 PM »

Awesome points, Doc. Jawge


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