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Author Topic: Sealing shafts with Minwax question  (Read 442 times)

Offline Huntswithbows

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Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« on: December 05, 2011, 08:10:00 PM »
Based on the replies from a previous thread I posted, it appears that Minwax and other urethanes make a better shaft sealer than gasket lacquer.

Do you dip the shafts, or wipe on with a rag or brush?  How many coats would you recommend?  What glue works best with the urethane?

Offline Shawn Leonard

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2011, 08:29:00 PM »
I have always dipped them but you have to thin the minwax at least 70% to 30% or even 60-40, otherwise too thick and ya can get bubbles. I dip but do not pull thru a gasket! Should say I steel wool 0000 between coats after drying(about 6hrs when thinned)I do anywhere from 3-5 coats depending, stumpers don't last me long so less coats, my bunny arrows get plenty of coats cause of the snow and wet conditions as do my whitetail arrows. Don't shoot wood much anymore but do on occassion and love making them. Shawn
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Offline Mike Vines

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2011, 08:29:00 PM »
I do 3 dips, and wait 24 hrs between coats with a quick rub down with 0000 steel wool inbetween coats.  As for product, I use waterbased Parks Wood Floor Finish.  It is found at Home depot and comes in a gallon.
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Offline DennyK

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2011, 08:48:00 PM »
I use 2 dips Minwax Satin, and like Mike said go over with fine steel wool. The glue I use was regular Fletch Tite or Fletch Tite Platinum. Minwax is also friendly to Testors enamels for cresting.
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Offline Javi

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2011, 08:51:00 PM »
I use the wipe-on 4-5 coats, steel wool between coats.. how long between coats depends on the weather.. cool and wet takes longer..
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Offline Fletcher

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2011, 09:05:00 PM »
Minwax oil base poly makes a great finish.  You can either wipe it on unthinned or dip it thinned 4-1 with a good mineral spirits paint thinner.  I think the dip gives a nicer looking finish, but wipe on is just as functional.  Three coats.  Duco is the glue of choice.  Fun is mandatory.
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Offline neuse

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2011, 07:23:00 AM »
What about using these products over water based cresting or acrylic caps?
Do these products make the cresting smear, or how do you prevent the smear?

Thank you, sorry for interupting the thread.

Online Rob DiStefano

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2011, 07:30:00 AM »
i use min-wax wipe on GLOSS resin based polyu exclusively and have built hundreds of woodies using this wiped on stuff as a sealer AND clear finish coat.  never a problem and VERY durable.  CHECK THE "HOW TO - RESOURCES" FORUM!
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Online Kelly

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2011, 09:55:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Fletcher:
Minwax oil base poly makes a great finish.  You can either wipe it on unthinned or dip it thinned 4-1 with a good mineral spirits paint thinner.  I think the dip gives a nicer looking finish, but wipe on is just as functional.  Three coats.  Duco is the glue of choice.  Fun is mandatory.
Ditto for me but just recently I tried some Min-Wax water based poly. First arrows I wiped on 3-4 coats and it seemed ok but really did not like it as it wasn't uniform. So last 6 I just did were un-thinned and dipped. Only needed two coats and they look much better. As far as durability with this finish I'll report on that later after I get a chance to shoot them for awhile. I do know that the oil based poly is very tough and waterproof-have arrows from 10+ years ago that are still going strong even after 1000's of shots and some have laid outside for 1-several days till I found them with no damaged,unless they got run over by the lawnmower before being found   :rolleyes:
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Offline cedar

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2011, 10:29:00 AM »
I use a quart of water based poly, gloss finsih, from Sherwin-Williams.  I mix 1:1 with water to thin.  This gives me a half gallon and will last for many arrows.  Dip with long dip tube.  Solution stores fine in tube when not in use. One coat over stain before cresting and 4 coats over cresting.  I use fine sand paper between coats.  Testors enamel and Duco glue work great.

Online Stumpkiller

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #10 on: December 06, 2011, 11:57:00 AM »
I wipe it on with a rag.  Used to use just the regular satin polyu but now use the wipe-on formula.  Two coats, crest, one more coat, pinstripe.
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Offline Fletcher

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2011, 12:46:00 PM »
I should add that the gloss is a tougher finish than the semi gloss or satins.  Water base colors for crowns and cresting will not run when over coated with the oil base polys, but I don't care for the coverage of the water base colors over the poly.  I use all solvent base paints.
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Offline Butts2

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Re: Sealing shafts with Minwax question
« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2011, 02:29:00 PM »
I use the semi-Gloss, dip them and have never thinned (never thought of it) only takes 2 coats. Never had an issue with bubbles I could see. I steel wool between the 2 coats and after all is said and done. Only issue I have is in bright sunlight shooting I get a glare off the arrow at times. I am not great but I made them and they shoot very well  :pray:
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