does the stu miller calculator work for a ACS CX TD

[erictetterton]

ok guys i need some help here. Does the Stu Miller Calculator work like it does for my Widows? my bow is a new to me 3PTD ACS CX 16" RC with 62" limbs making a 64" bow 47#@28" and i draw 29.5". SBD string. i shoot 3 under and am starting with a nockpoint at 5/8" and brace height of 7&1/4". i want to shoot carbons and i have been playing with the Stu Miller Calc and these three arrows are perfect according to the Calc:

1. CX Heritage 250 cut 30.5" with 125gr up front. 9.5GPP

2. CX 350 cut 30.5" with 175gr up front. 11GPP

3. GT Trad 7595 cut 30.5" with 200gr up front. 11GPP

if its accurate, which arrow would u choose?

 This will be my first ever A&H ACS CX bow and i just had to give one a try because of all the positive reviews i've read. any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance trad gang!  

[bkbk12]

For you bow you will want the 250 spine with around 175 up front. I have shot the 47# and own a 50 now at 28" and thats what I draw I am shooting GT 5575 30.25 with 275.00 up front and they are flying awesome bare shaft a feather will clean up a lot but if you want to get it really good go with the .250's

[erictetterton]

[erictetterton]

i really dont want an arrow any shorter than 30.5" to prevent overdrawing my bow with a broadhead and scaring up the riser

[The Night Stalker]

I pull 47 lbs, mine is a 14 riser with 64 inch limbs and 45 at 28inches. I shoot carbon MFX classic shafts 400's with 175gr up front. My arrows are about 30 since I draw 29.5 You might have to higher your knock point. I shoot 3under and it seems to like a high knock point. I can tie an adjustable knock point. Look at the resource forum, learn how to tie the sting knock point and play with it to find the sweat spot.

[erictetterton]

I tie my own nock point also and will try to raise it up a little and see if that helps me any. Thanks

[erictetterton]

I read that when building the side plate out, the arrow should be slightly to one side of the string. I am a lefty and would like to know if the arrow should be a little out the inside (closer to the riser) or outside of the string when its bisecting the limbs

[xtrema312]

They will shoot left on you if you don't get the arrow out past the string, opposite side of the string than the riser.  The one I had would shoot right for me, right hand, if I didn't build mine out a little.  I am not talking bare shaft weak.  I am talking just plain shooting right or where I was looking.

As for the arrow, I couldn’t give you much better advice than bkbk12.  I had 50#@28 limbs 64" bow 16" RC riser draw a little over 29" and shot almost that exact arrow he posted. I was also able to shoot 100 insert and 150 grain heads well.

[erictetterton]

Thanks for making that clear xtrema. I just need help on choosing which arrow will work at 31.25" length and more that 150gr up front. I guess I'll have to just have to order those CX heritage 350s

[erictetterton]

Does anyone know if the Stu Miller Calculator is pretty accurate for ACS CX bows? If not, is it weaker?

[Ground Hunter]

I have 2 ACS bows, but both are considerably stronger than yours.  Give Dan at A&H a call he may save you some time and money.

[The Whittler]

I have a A&H ACS CX 3pc that is 62" and 14" riser. It is 47#@28" and my draw length is about 29".

I shoot GT 5575 about 29 1/4" with 100gr inserts and 125gr points.

[jlnft]

I have two ACS CX's. One 62" 50# @ 28" and 64" 47# @ 28". I draw 28 1/2" and shoot a 29 3/4" GT Trads 5575's with a 50gr. insert and 125gr. point.

I have found I need to build the side plate out about 3/32"-1/8". If I don't, I shoot right(I'm righthanded).

My brace height is set at 7 1/8".

Joe

[xtrema312]

Originally posted by erictetterton:
Thanks for making that clear xtrema. I just need help on choosing which arrow will work at 31.25" length and more that 150gr up front. I guess I'll have to just have to order those CX heritage 350s

I would try the GT blem 5575 and 7595 if you want a cheap way to try out two spines. Then sell off the ones you don’t want and loose very little if anything.  The CE 350 tuned to your bow will be a log.  You  will not get the right arrow tuned per calculator or anything like that speed.  Been there and done that.  

Another option is to go down to the local archery shop and get a Beman Bow Hunter or Beman Hunter in 400 and 340.  Play with them a while bare shafting.  That will set you back about $12 or less to figure out your spine. Then you can get one of the other heavier trad shafts.

[erictetterton]

I checked Big Jims site and he's out of Blems. Also didn't see any on ****. Anyone know where to get them?

[metsastaja]

send Stu an email [email protected] he is always willing to help

[The Night Stalker]

I tried gold tips on two occassions on two different bows. They just do not work for me.
Tonight, I put together an ACS 41@28 66inch bow for my stepson's Christmas. I put some shelf material, silencers and tied an adjustable string nock on. I just eye it up and shot some Axis and some beman clasics. Both flew like darts

[erictetterton]

sounds like your stepson is going to have a great Christmas! i sent Stu an email and he was glad to help. i have chosen to go with the CX Heritage 250. thanks for the help everyone