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Author Topic: ? for the primitive pros  (Read 846 times)

Offline KHALVERSON

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? for the primitive pros
« on: December 13, 2011, 07:42:00 PM »
i know this is pretty subjective
but what kind of accuracy should i expect from primitive arrows @ say 15 yrds of so
takin a deer with primitive equipment has been on my bucket list for quite some time


thanks in advance
kevin

Offline gringol

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2011, 07:47:00 PM »
I'm not primitive expert, but I've seen primitive shooters out-shoot archers with laminated recurves and carbon arrows.  Go for it.  A harvest with primitive gear is on my list too.

Offline tim roberts

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2011, 08:06:00 PM »
Hello Kevin,
With practice you can become very efficient out to that range, and further.  Harvesting an animal out that far depends on where you set yor personal limitations, that there is what should determine how far you shoot.  This last season I killed a deer that was the longest kill I have made with traditional equipment, and it was done with a twisty self bow and a stone point!  The whole point to that story, is I had practiced out just a bit shorter than the distance the shot was taken and I knew how everything was going to go....Hope that helps some.
Thanks,
Tim

TGMM Family of the Bow

I guess if we run into the bear that is making these tracks, we oughta just get off the trail.......He seems to like it!  
My good friend Rudy Bonser, while hunting elk up Indian Creek.

Offline owlbait

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2011, 08:09:00 PM »
Dude, ya gotta make a bow too, or are ya just gonna throw that arrow? Give that black locust a chance to dry up first!  :bigsmyl:
Advice from The Buck:"Only little girls shoot spikers!"

Offline Mark Baker

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2011, 09:02:00 PM »
There is no reason that with a good bow and arrows matched, that you can't shoot it nearly as well as any trad bow.   It really depends on the bow and how well the arrows match up...and how well you practice with it.   People always wonder "how accurate is this bow"?....it's only as good as the shooter can shoot it.

It can be tougher, at first, getting used to shooting primitive stuff, but once you "wrap" your head around it right, and set your mind and practice session up so that it builds your confidence, rather than tear it down, there is no limits to what you can do.
My head is full of wanderlust, my quiver's full of hope.  I've got the urge to walk the prairie and chase the antelope! - Nimrod Neurosis

Offline arrowslinger22

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2011, 09:07:00 PM »
Mark has it right.  A guy I know in Wisconsin that builds osage selfbows that I saw shoot a 500 grain arrow 170 fps thru a chron.  Bow was 55@27 (his draw length).  I'm confident with mine and they are no where near that fast.
Only when the last tree has died
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and the last fish been caught
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Offline 2treks

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2011, 09:26:00 PM »
Ded nutz KH. No problemo. Folk been doing it for years that way.  :goldtooth:  

CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter.”
~ Francis Chan

Offline KHALVERSON

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2011, 09:33:00 PM »
thanks guys
the reason i ask is  i can be sort of anal about some things
i shoot pretty well out to 25 yrds with my modern curves and longbows
but like to keep my shots 20 yrds or less
preferably  15 yrds or less

are you guys finding a primitive arrow that flys well and spine testing it and then trying to match arrows as close as possible to what the bow likes?

kevin

Offline Duncan

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2011, 09:47:00 PM »
I have several selfbows none with arrow shelfs. Shooting off the knuckle. With properly spined cedar shafts or natural shoot shafts I get about the same groups I get with my laminated bows. You just have to be consistent with the nocking point and hand placement on the riser handle if shooting off the knuckle. You want your nocking point about a half to a quarter inch above the knuckle. Also brace hieght is important too same as with modern bows.
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Offline Jon Stewart

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2011, 09:58:00 PM »
Kevin, at 15 yards you are not going to have a problem.  What primitive arrows are you thinking of using? I would suggest mother natures   carbon, bamboo.

Offline jsweka

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2011, 10:02:00 PM »
Do a search here for some of Ranger B's videos.  He really shows the potential of a selfbow.
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Offline bretto

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2011, 10:29:00 PM »
jsweka beat me to it. Check out Ranger B's videos on YouTube . It's impressive to watch!!

Offline wollelybugger

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #12 on: December 13, 2011, 11:29:00 PM »
I shoot my Osage self bows as good or better than my other bows out to 20 yards. I shoot some bamboo arrows and they fly great, am going to try to make some arrows out of multi floral rose this winter. You'll be surprised at how well a well made self bow shoots.

Offline KHALVERSON

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2011, 05:59:00 AM »
jon
i would love to get my hands on some rivercane
but ive got plenty of red osier (dogwood)
in the back yard
i also have bill gauld workin on some stone heads
and a couple  of black locust staves dryin

Offline Jon Stewart

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2011, 06:22:00 AM »
Bill makes a nice point.  Was at his place this fall and he showed me the staves you mentioned. You should be good to go next fall.

Offline 2treks

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #15 on: December 14, 2011, 07:28:00 AM »
I have some osage Kevin. Are you going to make your own bow? Do you want some help? Is OB gonna play too?
Are you going to forge a tade point? That would be cool.

CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter.”
~ Francis Chan

Offline DVSHUNTER

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #16 on: December 14, 2011, 11:51:00 AM »
Like everyone else said they can be just as good. The problem that i see most with people shooting primitave gear is ... Here cames the zinger, poor craftmanship and lack of practice. A natural arrow can be made just as well as any. They can also be slapped together and made to look like arrows when all they really are is sharp sticks. In Dean Torges book he makes the comment just because ots primitive doesnt mean it cant be attractive.  Anyone can make a bow capable of killing. Any sharp.stick can likewise do the job. When skill and knowhow are used to make both bow and arrow then there really is.no.disadvantage to primitive equipment. Its just my opinion here, but just because.it can doesnt mean it should. Well made and well shot equipment should be the goal always. Settling for "it flies good enough" has always irked me.

The argument against my thinking is "what is the best?" Doesnt a compound offer easier accracy and faster speeds? My shoot traditional at all? I guess it comes down to a personal.choice.  now im rambling on here. Sorry. The simple answer to you question is that primitive arrows can be just as good as others.
"There is a natural mystic flowing through the air; if you listen carefully now you will hear." Bob Marley

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Re: ? for the primitive pros
« Reply #17 on: December 14, 2011, 01:32:00 PM »
My most accurate bow is a flat limb 64" 62pounds @ 26 inches pig nut hickory.  It shoots a 50 pound spined cedar with a 160 head the same distance as a 53 pound yew/glass Hill style bow that is rather quick for a hill style bow, and it shoots farther than another 54 pound at 26" Hill style bow. The arrows are 497 to 500 grains that I use out of it. Pignut hickory can be fairly fast, does not take much set, and can be easy to tiller if it is a straight grained piece,  but it needs to be very dry for all this to happen.

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