"How to" using Woody Weights

[BowHunterGA]

So I started using Woody Weights recently to increase the weight and FOC of my wood arrows. In discussing with a few others it seems thatthere is some confusion around how to use these so I put together this simple How-To in hopes it helps others. This is my method and seems to work well on 3D targets as well as stumping.

First gather the items needed. For me I use the following:

Arrows
Woody Weights (They come in 75-200 grains)
Normal Points. Field points, broadheads, Judos, etc.
Hot Melt glue or Ferr-L-Lite. I prefer regular hotmelt
Candle - any will do, I use whatever scented candle the wife happens to have around.
Pocket knife for trimming excess glue
Cup of water to cool points after glueing
Possibly pliers if you hands are sensitive to heat.

Here is my table ready to apply weights. These shafts are 23/64 Chundoo (Lodgepole Pine) spined 85-90, I am applying 100 grain Woody Weights to 160 grain fieldpoints.

     

I start by heating all components to be glued. When using normal hotmelt it does not have to be extra hot just enough so that it does not cool the glue too quickly. If using Ferr-L-Lite I have found you need to get the components hotter before applying.

First the Arrow.

     

Then I join the woody weight and the point temporarily just so it is more comfortable to hold while heating.

     

Here they are joined together (Not glued yet!)

     

Now heat the woody weight while holding the tip of the point. I hold them at a slant with the opening above the flame while rotating the point, this also burns any oil or residue that may be in the point.

     

Now heat the glue stick in the same manner.

     

Spread a little glue onto the tip of the arrow and then reheat slightly, try not to burn the glue.

     

Now slide the woody weight onto the shaft and press down on a hard surface. Rotate the shaft in the woody weight to work out excess glue and air pockets while centering the shaft in the weight. Spin test while focusing on the shaft and the woody weight. Once satisfied cool the point in water. The result shoudl resemble the photo below. Note the point has not been glued to weight at this point.

     

[BowHunterGA]

Now trim the excess glue and remove the point from the weight.

 

Repeat the steps for the point, heating the woody weight on the shaft, the point to affix and the glue. Apply glue to the woody weight same as was applied to the arrow.

 

Now slide the point on the the woody weight, Apply pressure to the point to force out excess glue and air. Spin the shaft to center and align the point. Once satisfied with the straightness, cool the point. Remove the excess glue and spin test once more. The result should look like this:

 

If the arrow dows not spin as you would like, simple re-heat and twist the point on the shaft to center. Usually the first time works well and you won't need to reheat. To remove or change points simply reheat and remove.

Thats pretty much it. Hope this helps someone out as I was a bit puzzled about adding weight to wood shafts until I just dove in and figured it out.


Regards,

[monterey]

Hey Steve, thanks for posting that.  Have had my eye on the WW but was concerned about the possibility of shafts breaking at the point where the WW base and the shaft meet.  Any experiences or thoughts on that?  Seems like a hard glancing hit might cause a sheer off.

Where do you get the woody weights? I have just about given up on wood arrows but would give them another try if I could work some up with a higher FOC like my carbons.

Bisch

[BowHunterGA]

Monterey, glad you enjoyed the guide. I have not had any issues with them breaking off. I have used a few on POC shafts but these are on Chundoo (Lodgepole Pine) shafts and so far no issues but I have not had a glancing blow yet either. I have had a few with the POC shafts and they were no worse for the wear.

Bisch, I am getting mine from Tim at Braveheart Archery. He is a sponser here as I am sure you are aware. Great guy, easy to buy from and very rapid order processing. You can find woody weights on his site here:

  http://www.braveheartarchery.us/new_page_23.htm  

Regards,

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Thanx, You make it look way easy

[karrow]

bowhunterGA thanks for the info and pics. i have been thinking in getting some

[straitera]

Well done Steve. This is the ticket. I'm getting some ww's. Thanks

[Thumper Dunker]

Cool stuff. thanks.

[Green]

Nice tuter Steve.  I've been using these on various spined woods over the past year as well as the outserts that allow you to use a screw-in point.  The woodie weights are my preference as they maintain the same diameter as the shaft and point so no issues with excess target damage.  

They look odd the first time you glue them on, but when I shot those first few with increased FOC, I became a believer.  Now that I've dropped bow poundage I have some new arrows to build and you can bet these will be right behind the pointy things.

[Bill Skinner]

Good "How To".  One thing to watch for, some cheap candles put off a sort of oily residue that gets inside your tips and prevents the glue from getting a good bond.  I just got a cheap alcohol burner from a childs' chemistry set and I haven't had a problem since.

[dnovo]

I'll second what Bill just said. Candles can leave soot and residue behind which prevents a good glue bond. The alcohol burner is the best. Burns clean and fuel is cheap.

[BowHunterGA]

Yep, correct on the alcohol lamp. I use one as well, but not everyone has one and I was trying to demonstrate how to apply without buying something that most would people would not have lying around the house. I have not had issues with soot or oil but I try to use the heat from the candle and not the flame itself. This seems to prevent soot and smoke. Still if you have, or want to invest in an alcohol lamp, it is definately better as a clean heat source.

Thanks for the comments guys, I probably should have made a note about a lamp as an alternative.

Merry Christmas all!!!!!!!!!

[Fletcher]

A propane torch works well, too and many of us have one of those around the house.  Just keep it turned down low and take care not to overheat - only takes a couple of seconds.  I prefer the "camping" style propane bottles; much more stable than the old tall skinny style.

I've noticed the Woody Weights to have quite a bit of oil in them and always clean them out very well with acetone or alcohol.  I like the Woody Weights; real easy to get a 210-235gr Zwickey Delta.