paper tuning help

[sawtoothscream]

i shot my bow through paper with feather and got nock high. so i adjusted until i got bullet holes.

then i shot a bare shaft through paper and im getting aleft tear.

i think that means im over spined right?

so do i go with what the feathered arrow says or should i increase end weight and try to get the bare shaft shooting better?

first time trying to tune a bow so any advice would be great.

also if this is the wrong forum im sorry. i didnt see one for tuning. or maybe i over looked it by mistake.

[EHK]

I don't consider myself an expert tuner by any stretch, but I've never heard of paper tuning bare shafts.  It's usually one or the other.  The best resource I've found for tuning is on OL Adcock's site.  Maybe that can help answer your question.

 http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

[sawtoothscream]

k. well the feathered ones are hitting perfect and are good through paper. maybe ill buy some broadheads and broadhead tune it and see how that goes

[sawtoothscream]

im getting a right tear with bare saft. idk why i keep saying left. just one of those days

[cbCrow]

I've never used bare shafts with paper but if they are going tale right bare your ok. When you bareshaft you want to be a little under spined. I avoid all this work by using Stu Miller and paper testing and get good results.

[snow leopard]

type "elite arrows" into your search. paul jalon has an excellent add-on regarding paper tuning.

[Old York]

We don't know if you're right or left handed.

We don't know how long a tear you get in paper, with the bare shaft.

We don't know how far away your drawn arrow tip is from the paper.

Be our eyes and type out the details.

[sawtoothscream]

Ya that would help.  

I shoot right handed, the right tear is like 3"  and im shooting about 10ft away.  That's with a bare shaft. Bullet holes with feathers.

[Old York]

Add on another 5 feet and retry. To help 'read' the tear, one can smear some lipstick on the point, then they know for sure if arrow is tearing left, or tearing right. Sometimes it's hard to read where the point enters and where the nock leaves (on a bare shaft), the lipstick leaves its telltale mark on the paper.

Try this both with bare & fletched at 15'.

I've gotten my bares to tear about 1" maximum, they say a 1" horizontal tear or less, is perfectly acceptable. Now this is when my form and release are having a good day.

(They = Easton, IIRC)

Good luck to you  

[sawtoothscream]

thanks ill give that a shot when i get a chance.

[AKmud]

I really like this writeup about tuning -    Tuning

[sawtoothscream]

so he is saying as long as the tips hitting in the same spot of the fletched arrows it doesnt matter wha tthe angle the bare shaft is in the target?

[sawtoothscream]

bare shafted at 13 yds and its hitting just left of the feathered. not much though. level wise is perfect. so i think im going to try and ge ome heavier field tips and see if it helps.

[Scoobiedooo]

Originally posted by EHK:
I don't consider myself an expert tuner by any stretch, but I've never heard of paper tuning bare shafts.  It's usually one or the other.  The best resource I've found for tuning is on OL Adcock's site.  Maybe that can help answer your question.

  http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm  

EHK - many years ago (probably say - 25 yrs ago) - we did a bare shaft tuning method as he described shooting thru paper. I think it was described in Larry Wise's book. We used this for compound bows - tho I don't know (or think) it mattered if it was a compound or not. I personally never had good luck using this method myself - as I never could get 'perfect' paper tears with a bare shaft. I know some guys who did - I was just never one of them - and that was WITH a release as well - which would have minimized shooting fingers - which of course - i now only shoot!

[stujay]

Both akmudd and scobiedoo give OL Adcocks arrow tuning info which I'd print for reference. If you get a bare shaft to bullet hole, then you won't get the same arrow with fletching to bullet hole, because the fletching stiffens the arrow leaving a tear left. Most prefer slighly weak bare shaft counting on the fletching to stiffen the arrow.

I tip my camo cap to you folks that get consistant results paper tuning.  I've never been able to pull it off.  Bare shaft tuning is my method of choice.

[Dan Adair]

Originally posted by stujay:
If you get a bare shaft to bullet hole, then you won't get the same arrow with fletching to bullet hole, because the fletching stiffens the arrow leaving a tear left. Most prefer slighly weak bare shaft counting on the fletching to stiffen the arrow.

I thought I'd throw this in the mix...  I bareshaft with that tailwieght added in the mix.  If you double up on wraps, it usually adds in the 12 grains that fletching adds (4" 4 fletch is 12 grains of feather)  The most recent Trad Bowhunter talked about using heat shrink tubing instead of wraps, and I like that idea.  The author even stated that heatshrink is heavier than wraps.

But yeah....  Bareshafting through paper, with tailweight added to duplicate fletching, can be highly effective.  Even block targets will accept the occasional arrow funny and give a false read, and my 35 year old eyes have a hard time seeing a nock going away from me at 120 MPH.  I usually use paper tuning with fletching once I go to broadheads before season starts just to make sure there aren't any suprises (there seldom are)