Chopping down some limbs on a recurve...?

[shoothathang]

X2 what last arrow said

[zze86]

Thanks for the responses all. Just to clarify some points and answer some Q's:

I stand at a heady 5'4".

I was thinking about cutting the limbs around the part that bolts up to the riser not the limb tips. I took some quick measurements the other day and it looked like the limbs are pretty straight (no taper) until it starts hitting the curve.

The short bow I tried out was of the asiatic horsebow style.

Thanks for the other options to consider. I guess I'll just continue shooting it as is for now. Maybe if I have a couple of bucks left over after the summer I'll try making a shorter riser. As far as the classifieds, it's rather hard to find a cheap(er) T/D that is also short but I'll keep a lookout. Having a T/D is nice since I can carry it with me around campus without getting a bunch of stares or catching on everybody/thing.

thanks again all!

[jsweka]

Originally posted by zze86:
I was thinking about cutting the limbs around the part that bolts up to the riser not the limb tips. I took some quick measurements the other day and it looked like the limbs are pretty straight (no taper) until it starts hitting the curve.
 

That's not a good idea either.  To get the bow down to 52" you'd need to cut 4" off each limb.  This will take you too far out on the wedges in the middle of the limb butts.  Also, you will have one heck of a time getting the limb bolts and alignment pins to line up on both each limbs and keep both limbs straight in relation to one another.

Your best bet is to sell it and get another.

[CoilSpring]

Chee, this bow in the classifieds may be what you need and the price is good too.  Buy it, try it and keep the one you shoot best.  1962 Kodiak Magnum - 52" 48#@28", should be about 42-44#@25"-26" draw length.

   http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=048492

[landman]

Your height has nothing to do with it.  Shoot that bow, learn its idiocrancies and hunt with it.   it's not the bow bro, it's you.   Don't be concerned about what all of the guys on this site own, shoot or don't shoot.    After you've been shooting and hunting awhile and after you're out of school then worry about other bows.

[adamgti]

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=048511

Check this bow out. Not a Idea and I bet it shoots the pants off your jaguar. Anyways keep creeping the classifieds, I just saw another beat go for 185 bucks.

Sorry it's the same length though.

Keep shooting,
Adam

[adamgti]

I second that it's not the bow. My above comment could be recieved wrong. It's not the bow, but it mental so shoot what you want and if your not happy don't force it because believe me I'm a poor student too and I know how it feels. We have a price range too so don't get because the money isn't there.

All will work out in the end man.

Again keep checking the classifieds and make sure you listen to the advice you asked for, these guys know what they're talking about.

Regards,
Adam

[last arrow]

My wife is 5 4 and her recurve bow is 62 inches long.

Aside from the alignment problems (unless you are a very good machinist), if you shorten from the wedge side it will result in a broken bow and possible injury to the shooter.  I assume the bow has about an 8 inch limb wedge, about half lays on the handle and half extends beyond the handle to gradually start the bending of the limb.  If you cut 4" off, the entire limb wedge will then be on the handle, not allowing a gradual start to the limb bending, essentially creating a handle with no, or at best a very short fade from handle to limb.  Only bad things can happen if you do that as it puts a lot of stress on the limb where the handle ends.

Also be aware that if you make a new handle, you will get about 5 pounds draw weight increase for every 2 inches you shorten the bow, Your goal of 8 inches will add about 20 lbs with the same limbs.

[tecum-tha]

Get rid of the jaguar and try to find a bow that fits your personal length requirements.
I am 5'5" and like 56" in a longbow best.
With shorter draws, you have to learn how to read Force-draw curves. With some recurves you will not be out of the pre-load belly curve yet.
I shoot a Hwarang Model 25 48" korean bow, but a 48" korean Kaya bow will be just as good. Just hard to find any used ones. Korean bows are measured at a different draw length and have a very special F-D curve. As an example:
  http://www.aixbow.de/shop/images/diagramme/kaya/ibi0372-52.pdf  
Text is german,but note the nominal draw weight was 50#, but it actually were 45#. This guy makes a F-D curve for every bow he sells. This is absolutely important to get the right # at your draw.

[Jedimaster]

Good advice all around.  I just might add that you could post your bow for trade in the classifieds and see what comes up (if your dead set on a shorter bow).  Truth is, there aren't that many short take-downs anyhow.  

Looking back some of my best memories were with equipment that I foolishly thought of as inadequate or inferior.  Bow envy (like the short bow you shot) and feeling my equipment was inadequate (from seeing & reading what others have) has cost me countless hours searching for "something better" and more money than I care to comment on.  The reality is, you can do wonderful things with what you have in your hands.

Besides, your in school.  Struggle through it, focus on the books, get a good education, make lots of money and then ... buy every bow you couldn't afford before.  Sorry that's the dad coming out in me  

[Jake Fr]

Get a fishing reel put on the martin and buy another bow in a weight your comfortable with

[bentpole]

[ronp]

I agree with the others.  Chpping down those limbs is ill-advised.  Sell it or trade it for a shorter one if you really want one.