The hardest part about playing around with the tuning of a bow is when the string serving allows those blasted brass nocking points to move, then if you don't like the brass ring thing, you gotta' pry it open somehow with what ever you have on hand. You can tell just by looking which butter knives I have used for that. Or if you were certain you had the nocking point just right so you soaked it with super glue just find that when you go from aluminum to tapered cedars it needs to move up a bit and then you find that super glue is the only thing in the world that is harder than diamonds.The other main part of bow tuning is simply twisting up or untwisting the string not a problem if you are good at loading and unloading your bow. the final one is padding or unpadding the side plate, that for me is fine tuning, but it is hard to pry off that brand new leather or fur on a new bow, it is even harder to get out a file and sandpaper and cut the sight window deeper or rounder, I have done both. I only have two bows that i did not tune the grip to fit my hand, oddly enough both of them are custom ordered Robertson longbows and there was no need to change a thing on them. I have never felt the need to alter a Super Kodiak or a super Griz that I have had other than putting stuff on the grip to keep my fleece glove from sliding around.
If the fluid side of trad shooting looks good and sound, ease of tuning and forgiveness is of growing importance,plus he is a big guy, there are some Abbot longbows on stock that would fit right in there at reasonable prices, Seven Lakes has some on hand that would be right as well, plus he would have a real decent person on the line making certain that he was getting the right thing, right from the start with person setup help. Way better than taking a guess with a computer ordering system, give them a call either way you will not be short changed or mislead.
Topic: Newbie with a barrage of questions. (Read 389 times)
