arrow flight question?

[Buxndiverdux]

I've been frustrated with arrow flight issues and I've been wondering what to do. My current arrows are Beman MFX Classic 500's. They are 31" long and weigh 540 grains with a 145 grain field point and a 75 grain brass insert. Arrow flight is decent. A slight left to right wobble that I can't stand. So I decided to give some arrows I had laying around a fling.  
I just tried a Victory VForce 300 that is 31 1/2" and weighs 475 grains with 145 grain field point and standard insert. They were very erratic. Just had them laying around so I tried them.
I also tried some GT 7595's at 32 1/2" and they weighed 475 grains with a 145 grain tip. They flew great, everytime, even when I deliberatly made a bad release.

Does this tell you guys anything? I want to use the Beman MFX's but I was wondering if this would help me figure out which way to start tinkering with the MFX's.

My longbow is 57# @ 28" and my draw length is 27.5"

[Buxndiverdux]

have you done any bareshafting?

[onewhohasfun]

I think you might  be too stiff. I'd try at least 250 grn. tips on arrows stated above. 145 grn. tips might work better on 400 spine shafts. 55/75 for one. It can take a lot of tip wt. to weaken some carbons.

[Buxndiverdux]

Originally posted by arrow30:
have you done any bareshafting?

yeah. A bare shaft hits in the same general area at 20 yards, but is nock high. The Beman arrow selection chart says I'm weak spined.  But it seems to leave out a ton of important variables like point weight. I did a little research on the arrows I tried that the GT 7595's are spined correctly according to the GT Chart. The VForce chart says they are too stiff.

My bare shaft arrows were good left and right in flight and at impact. I just noticed knock high. I moved my knock point up about an 1/8" and didn't see a whole lot of difference. My strind is really worn at the serving, and my arrows will slide around on it. I read on another thread that said I may need two nocks to keep the arrow from sliding down the shaft. I might try that next.

[maineac]

If you have any bareshaft arrows play with the tip weight again.  I would also try the 2nd nock point.  I would also get a new string, or reserve the one you have.  I had a string let go at the nock zone this summer at a shoot.

[onewhohasfun]

That settles it. If any chart says you have the correct spine, then your too stiff. Sad but true.

[Buxndiverdux]

added a second nock below the arrow and it completely took the knock high out of the bareshaft, but I see a left kick and point of impact is to the right of intended aim. My bareshaft hit to the right of both 8 shot groups I shot. Not much, but noticable.

I don't have any heavier field points, but according to the chart, I should be weak spined. Adding weight will only increase weak spine, right?

[57HOP]

Adding more point weight will effectively weaken the arrows spine.

You wrote:
"I also tried some GT 7595's at 32 1/2" and they weighed 475 grains with a 145 grain tip. They flew great, everytime, even when I deliberatly made a bad release."

We have a winner!
I'd use them!

[Ragnarok Forge]

Go to OL Adcocks website and read thru the tuning method he uses.  Ignore the factory charts for carbons they are completely wrong for trad bows.   Do a search for stu millers calculator on here.  It will get you close.   Again use the OL Adcocks bare to fletched shaft tuning method.   It will help you understand what is going on and how to find the right spine for your bow.  Don't be afraid to order heavier heads to find the right weight to obtain a perfect tune for your arrows.

[Bldtrailer]

go to this site  http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Bare shaft at it best