Looking into a bicycle

[GMASIUK]

My wife and I did tons of mountain biking ten years ago but not so much lately due to family stuff. But when we were serious about it most bikes less than about $900.00 were not worth messing with as they just don't hold up off road. I destroyed some of the best high end components back in the day with just normal off roading wear and tear. My bikes were in the $1500.00 range

This past fall I stopped into my favorite local bike shop, haven't been there in ten years.  ( like I said I've been out of the loop for current off road trends).  I got to talking with the mechanic about maybe replacing my wife's bike with a new bike. But after looking at bikes equivalent to her 13 year old bike I would still have to spend about $1500.00 for not much improvement.

My point is we purchased bikes that were higher end years ago and they are still very good bikes even today. The biggest changes in the last 10 to 15 years have been in the braking systems. Going from cantilever to disc.

If you want a bike that will last,  buy a good one. There is nothing worse than trying to cross a stream and throwing a chain because you derailer is junk. We rode with some friends that were quit thrift and they ended up pushing their bikes out of the woods most of the time.

Mountain bikes are like binoculars spend as much as you can on them and it will pay off in the long run. Glen

[Duncan]

Besides Craigslist try the local cycle shop bulletin boards and the local cycle club sale pages on their websites. There may yet be a deal out there. I use a 1996 Gary Fisher hardtail with original "entry level" components. I changed out the cassette to a lower range of cogs and the small chain ring to a 24 tooth. Other than change saddles, pedals and grips, a chain here and a headset there, over the years it has given great service with an initial cash outlay of $250.00

[Bud B.]

I'd get a 2011 or if still out there a 2010 Specialized Rockhopper Hardtail. Ask for the shop's best price. They have a little wiggle room.

Get with your local IMBA chapter and ask for help and advice.


If your terrain is hilly to flat, rather than hilly to mountainous, you may even want to look at getting a BOB trailer. But their capacity is limited.

  http://www.bobgear.com/ibex

[Lechwe]

Get to some bike shops now as they could still have some 2011 bikes in the system for a good deal. I got my road bike that way and saved over 40%.

Good luck.

[mbugland]

After working in several shops over the years... and spending the majority of my life on two wheels, here's my quick two thoughts.
1)If you want to go new... Giant is normally the best bang for your buck. They make frames for several of the other companies out there so their overhead on the largest single component is minimal, the price you pay goes more into components.
2)Their are several places on the web similar to TradGang that are filled with great folks doing the same thing.. talking story, trading advice and equipment. I would check the classifieds from MTBR.com and PinkBike.com  I have purchased multiple bikes and components from MTBR's classifieds.  They have a wonderful review section as well.

...just like Archery nothing in the world could compare to a great local shop, but not everyone has one. You get what you pay for, if you keep your money local, you get your support local a little cheaper... spend your money over the internet, get your help blindly over the internet, and eventually pay for parts you didn't use, didn't need, but who knows, you can save a buck. I know it sounds bias from working in a shop... but I have paid the price to learn it... and still don't follow it. They use to say you can tell a good bike mechanic by how much money he has spent on ruined bike parts.  Same goes for archery, I just can't seem to find a shop that I trust or want to go back to, so I will continue to lurk the pages here, order blindly and have some random crap I can't use, or can't use effectively... or just broken in the basement hidden from my wallet's view. I really just need to find a shop. even with an hour drive it would be much cheaper... and less time.

[Zane]

Check out a 29er. The bigger wheels have some advantages over 26ers especially in hard tails.
For the price range you are looking at, used or waiting for a sale would be your best bet. Specialized, Marin, Scott, Yeti are all good brands - even on the lowend. Even better when you get them on sale.

[Whip]

It has been mentioned, but definately make sure that you buy the right size bike.  You can search online to find out how to figure the correct frame size, or ask at a shop when you are there.  Just don't fall for a good deal on a used one if the frame isn't the right size for you.
Also as so many have mentioned, the biggest difference in quality is in the components.  Buy the best you can afford.

[slowbowjoe]

I have about 15 seasons of experience as a bike mechanic. A few season's experience riding technical mountain bike trails (with accompanying injuries, which don't help my shooting any!).
You DO want to go with a major brand name bike, from a reputable specialty shop.

You WILL probably want to look at around $650-700 as a starting point for a bike that will actually hold up off road. More, if performance is important. You want an oil filled or air filled front fork (suspension). NOT a "polymer" or "elastomer" action.

You'll get Shimano or Sram components: neither very good at the lower end, but low end Sram is the worst. Refer to starting price.

Each major mfg.'r offers something competitive, overall quality will be similar for similar $. One will trade a higher end this for a lower end that. Refer to starting price.

Specialized "hard rock" would be the most minimal range for reliability. Better to step up a notch, probably their "rockhopper"
in line. Trek, Giant, Rocky Mtn., Kona, etc., will offer comparable quality for price.

[Hopewell Tom]

2 weeks ago, I went in to a local bike shop to discuss this very issue. I had a list from other posts here that I went over with the guy (front suspension, disc brakes, better seat, etc.) I like the idea of going to the small local shop vs. the line up at the various Mart's.
I came out of there with a down payment (layaway)on a Norco Wolverine and a nice feeling, well fitting helmet. $825.00 tax in. Both products last years models, on sale. Not done yet as I'll be getting a back rack and fender kit (another $100.00, approx.)
Probably not the end of the financial pain, but this is my first bike in 50 years and I have to see what it is that I'll need/want. This bike is the next step up from entry level at this shop. They're a full service place and I feel good about it. Maybe upgrade, maybe not.
As above, fit and feel with dependability are the important features. My riding is on our 250 acres only, (for now) on trails that I made. Won't be "getting any air" unless it's me "leaving" the bike unexpectedly! Trailer not necessary, as a successful hunt will bring out my workhorse Honda 500 Foreman. My plan is to use the unit as a relatively silent (and hopefully less scentful) way to approach my hunting grounds. We'll see...

[swamprat26]

Double walled rims

[slivrslingr]

Some pretty sound advice here.  Personally, since this is your first "good" bike, I'd buy from your local bike shop, not a pawn shop or CraigsList.  Why? You get no warranty or service support.  Plus, you'll have to take that bike straight to the shop for a checkup and likely spend some money to make it trailworthy anyway.  Your LBS will appreciate the business as well.  Another thing is to make sure you take the bike in for it's 30 day/50 mile "new bike" tune up, most shops do this for free, but you should ask to make sure.  The reason is cable stretch, wheels get out of true, bearing settle in, etc. so it won't be running at it's best.  

As for buying a bike, ride as many different one's that you can.  There is a difference between brands and models and you'll know which one feels right for you.  Buy the best you can afford.

One last thing, if you find a Yeti for $500 it's either beat to $#@% or stolen.

[joevan125]

Back in 2004 i got into road cycling abd my buddies talked me into buying a trek 5500 with a custom paint jop, different handle bars, heart rate moniter, repatition counter, watch that tell altitude, temp, speed you name it and it has it.

Anyway i had been riding for about 6 months with a CHEAP bike $800 dollars, laos about 40Lbs and could drag a deer out of the woods while my friends lay in my wake.    All kidding aside i became addicted to the feeling of that tiny seat and couldn't wait to dress up and go ride sometimes all day with over 20 people.

Anyway that day at the Bike shop i walked out of there with a bill for $8,700 dollars Bike, watch clothes and all. The other day i was on Craigslist and saw some of these bikes and the asking price was only $1,800 dollars.

A lot of people impulse buy when buying these expensive bikes and then they hardly ever ride them and these high end Bikes will take thousands of miles if taken care of, mine has.

So i would for sure get on Craigslist and even if you have to drive 3 hours to pick the bike up its worth it. Also go to a Bike shop and ask a lot of questions about gears, tires, frame etc.

Joe Van

[Firemandivi]

I have a decent mountain biking history I own a Yeti 575 and have gone on mountain biking vacations and even a mountain bike themed wedding (very fun).  Alot of good advice given here.  What has been said about a 29" is true but I find there are not many choices and parts are harder to find plus parts cost more so I would stay away from a 29" for my first real mountain bike.
 
Unless you really get into mountain biking a hard tail(front only suspension) is all you will need.  For those saying a full suspension is a gimmick must be ridding nothing more then carriage trails as a full suspension does make a huge difference especially once you get into technical riding.  Not saying it can't be done with a hard tail(been there done that).

Brakes go disc you don't need hydraulic, mechanical will do you just fine.  

As for brand any of the name brands are good everyone has their favorites just like anything else.

Don't forgot to ride with a helmet at all times also don't forget biking requires different gear you will need at a minimum a bike pump, extra tube, tire patches, tire levers, and a multi tool.  To go riding in the woods without at least this list you are asking for problems.  Also make sure you ride before you hunt, you want to get use to the trails and get your body use to the bike.  You will be saddle sore your first time, don't worry it goes away.

Good luck and have fun.  shoot me a pm if you have any other questions.

[emt137]

Guys,

Thanks for all the help and advice.  There's a lot here to sift through.  I would love to be able to spend $1k on a bicycle, but it just ain't gunna happen.  The budget won't allow it.  

I would like to be able to use this bicycle occasionally for hunting and was interested in some things to look for for that purpose.  You guys have definitely helped me with that.  Odds are the this bike will be rode mostly around town and on camping trips.  

Thanks a bunch again, I really appreciate all the help!

Pat

[Jason Kendall]

I had a redline 29 ss for awhile but sold it went I built up a vassago 9speed , I miss the single speed for hunting though, nothing hanging down to catch on stuff. I do like a 29er over a 26er. No shocks on mine.  The redline was under 500