1st time bare shafting and I have a couple questions

[mgompf]

So here is my setup:
Black Widow 53# @ 28".
I was going to try some Gold Tip 5575's.

Should I cut any length from the arrows before I start (shafts are 32" long)?

Being that I will likely have to cut some length off as I am tuning...What kind of glue should I use on the inserts to hold them in place while tuning that will allow me to remove them when cutting?

Any other helpful hints would be great.

[BOWMARKS]

Shafts will probably be long but once you cut that is the length.

You can cut from nock end so you can use the glue for inserts that you choose.

[Troy Breeding]

As Bowmark said glue in your insert and and do your trimming from the nock end. It's the only safe way to bareshaft carbon.

Troy

[slowbowjoe]

Yup, cot from the nock end, and conservatively, with your spine. You nay need some fairly heavy point weight.

[mgompf]

Any educated guesses on how much point weight I'll need?

How do you guys add point weight?

[Gen273]

total weight up front will be around 200 grain, give or take 25. that is my best guess, and if you are drawing close to 28 inches; I will guess that your arrow will end up around 28 3/4 inches long. However This is just a guess.

[beendare]

I'm shooting the same shafts and have used a tiny bit of hotmelt or epoxy to temporarily hold the insert in place.

I then hold the FP over a candle flame for a 6-10 count which is enough to loosen the bond and not damage the arrow. You do not want to over heat them.  Sometimes it takes a few seconds for the heat to transfer from FP to insert.

I haven't wrecked a large dia carbon yet....which I can't say for the small dia HIT system.

[bowhuntingrn]

I've been using the cool blue hot melt from bohning. Use an insert tool if you have access and heat the tool, not the insert. It takes very little heat to insert / remove. Matter of fact they recommend just using hot water (hot as you can get it from your tap) to melt it enough to line broadheads up with feathers.

[LH Keith]

I've had good luck using Saran wrap around the inserts. Might depend on your target though (pullin' em out). I shoot a round bale for practice & tuning.

[mgompf]

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up with a 29" shaft with 235 grains up front. Accomplished this with 145 grain broad head, insert and a machine screw screwed into the back of the insert. I used Elmer's glue to hold the inserts in place.

[jhg]

BTW, what kind of bare shaft method did you use?

[mgompf]

I followed the instructions on the Gold Tip website.

[JParanee]

Why would you not cut from the nock end why would anyone spend time glueing or rigging temp insert on

It's so quick and easy  to just pull nock cut and shoot again

[JParanee]

Why would you not cut from he nock end spend time glueing or rigging temp point on

It's so quick and easy  to just pull nock cut and shoot again

[mgompf]

I didn't cut from the nock end because according to the method on the Gold Tip site you fetch 3 arrows to shoot along with 3 no-fletch. I like a pretty arrow some I had custom wraps made by Onestringer and wanted all the arrows to looks the same. Also I like the back of my feather to be set back enough from the end of the shaft so that I can use it as an additional anchor point.

[JamesKerr]

I use regular old hot melt to do my tuning. I just heat the field tip while keeping my hand on the end of the shaft to make sure it doesn't get to hot.

[bbold]

If you are using wraps you don't cut from the nock end