String twist question

[AllenR]

How many twists is too much?

I'm just learning to make flemish twist strings and as might guess, I haven't quite gotten the trick of getting the lengths exactly right.

Will there be a problem if I use my slightly long strings with a lot of twists?

Thanks,
Allen

[BONE]

Allen--After you have your first loop formed-stretch your string out and measure for your proper string length-then form the other loop.That should help give you the right length,if you are still to long it shouldnt be by much.A little extra length won't hurt-twist it up.-------------Bone    

[Tim Fishell]

I prefer having more twists in my strings.  It makes a 2 strand string more round so I have been told.  I will twist a string until it starts to double up on its self and then back it off a few twists.  Then I string it and rub it will a piece of leather and get it good and hot to some what set the twists.  I have found buy getting the string hot it does not want to unravel as much.  I am sure you will get some other opinoins but this is what I have found.  Good luck.

[SCATTERSHOT]

After you make your first loop, measure the length of the string you need and start the twist for the other loop there. That will give you a string that is about 1 1/2" too long, then twist it to the proper length. That will give you a properly twisted string.

[Orion]

Of course, you can also untwist one end loop  and redo the string longer or shorter if you need to.  It's a pain, but it works.

[Traddict]

I did the exact same thing with the string that is currently on my longbow.  I think it looks better, and as stated above, it makes the string more round.  The only drawback that I could tell is that it seemed to take longer for the string to set in.  I shot numerous shots through it before my brace stopped needing adjusting.

[AllenR]

One problem that I noticed with the excessive twisting is that each twist takes up more string.  For example when I use 1 to 1 1/2 twists per inch, it takes about 5 twists to increase brace height 1/2"

But with it twisted up like it is now, it only takes one or two.

I think that I will try Bone & Scattershots ideas and just make better strings  

Thanks for your help everyone.

Allen

[LBR]

You have the right idea--building the string the right length is the ticket.  Just like everything else in this sport, if you are consistent and take some notes you'll get it right after a bit of practice.

As for how much twist, I don't measure it, but I don't like too much.  If the string is twisting up on itself after the bow is unstrung, that's WAY too much.  You have extra material (weight), and are adding spring--both will rob you of performance.

If you have to put that much twist in the string to get it round, you aren't using the proper amount of back twist.  

FWIW, both BCY and Brownell warn against burnishing a string with anything other than your fingers--too much heat and you can damage the fibers.  Get the back twist right, you'll have a round string without burnishing.

Chad

[R.W.]

Does using 3 bundles of string for forming the Flemish Twist make for a rounder string?

Using three bundles shouldn't make it any harder to build, I wouldn't think.

Experienced twisters say?

R.W.

[LBR]

If you do the backtwist right, 3 bundles aren't any rounder than 2.  It is harder and more time consuming to make a 3 bundle--you have to keep them in sequence, and keep the bundle tension even if you want to do it right.

Chad

[Falk]

AllenR,
listen to LBR - back twist is the only way to make a round string (-body).
The loops will be rounder and smoother with 3 bundles. I prefer 3 bundles mainly for this reason but think it does also hold more tension in it's splice. There is more contact and "mixing" between three then two bundles = more friction. Though, with modern materials a two bundle string with splice made long enough will suffice almost any time.
Three bundles can look nice with the possible color combinations but are little more work, of course. I've posted the pic below many times because it shows all these aspects in detail quite nicely:
 


Twisting until it starts to kink is nonsense IMHO. The main body of a string should not be twisted to much. In theory, parallel bundles would make for the highest performance due to less mass and coming to a stop at brace height - all at the same time.

When I do a string I try to get correct lenght with close to 1 turn to an inch. Not because the string would need it to hold together but simply because it can thus made a little longer, if needed, by untwisting. Applying more twist to shorten it is seldom a problem.

I rubb the string with a piece of cotton cloth until warm. I would burn my fingers if I rubb to much. Good so! And the cotton will suck any surplus wax of the string - I don't want a candle - just enough to lubricate it ...

[Quill Flinger]

Nice job Falk, a beautiful string! I'm gonna need more practice!

[AllenR]

Falk,

I agree with QF, that is a beautiful string.  It gives us beginners a goal to aim for.

Thanks for posting it.

How do you trim off the loose ends?

Allen

[Falk]

Thanks for your compliments guys! The pictured string was custom made for one of the very few 48" bows around and the color combo was due to the customers wishes.
As for the loose ends:
I like to cut all ends of - flush with the string - PRIOR to load it with tension. The ends will thus ?retard into the splice and nothing looks frayed etc. - it's just that simple!

[Falk]

I would like to quote Crary BROWNELL himself - regarding string twist. From Archer's Digest (1971: 91)

I decided that there was altogether to much twist ... to make a good stable string, because the more twist you put in, the more stretch you get. Elasticity you don't want.

[tim-flood]

I've been told that you need at least a doz twists to hold it together,  If you think it is twisted too much it is less than 10 minutes to redo an end and make it 1" or more shorter