OL's tuning method. i'm a little confused

[ozy clint]

ok, so i got a new set of limbs for my recurve. they are the same as the ones i've been shooting only 3#'s heavier. it's set at the same brace height. the only difference is the string on the new limbs has one more strand.

the arrows i used to shoot (and they flew great) don't fly as good on the new limbs. i was expecting this. i'm a right hander and my broadheads shoot to the left of my field points.

now in OL's method this means they are stiff. but my bare shafts group to the right of my fletched shafts which means they are weak, as to be expected. what the???

i trimmed a broadhead shaft and it doesn't shoot so far to the left. i think it needs more trimming.

what's going on?

i've experienced this while playing with woods for stone points. whenever i had an arrow that shot to the left i'd make it stiffer and it would shoot better. it seems to go against what OL says.

how do your broadheads show weak? to the left of your field points like me?

[Swamp Yankee]

Sorry, after re-reading your post I realised my "broadheads are longer than fieldpoints" explaination didn't really answer the question.

[L82HUNT]

Only thing I can think of is with the broadhead which makes the arrow act weaker your getting a false reading and its bouncing off the shelf.  Or your peaking at the shot  

[ranger 3]

Ozy, try moving your brace up and down and you might try moving your silencers up and down but don't do both at one time..

I've never used OL's method. I mainly paper tune. When I paper tune the hole in the paper tells me just what I need to do to fix my arrow. Broadheads shoot the same as the field points after I get everything right.

Bisch

[wingnut]

I use the BABH (big a$$ broadhead) method like the tuning guide lays out.  You really have to be careful of false weak or stiff.  I always confirm the reading by forcing to be more weak or more stiff before making the other adjustment.

This can be done by using lighter or heavier BH adapters.

I have field points and broadheads from 100 to 300 grains made up to use while tuning.  Once I get it right, I just match my hunting heads to the tune.

Mike

[ozy clint]

don't think i'm peeking. they consistently land the way they are landing.
so if they are overly weak they can hit the strike plate and give a false stiff indication?
might explain the strike plate wear.....
i'll keep trimming one and see what happens.
will shoot again this arvo.

[Orion]

Hmmmmm.  Three pounds just isn't that much heavier.  Arrows should shoot good out of both.  Is the string the same material, just one strand heavier?  Again, not enough to make much of a difference.  Are the limbs the same length?  Might you have tuned with a bow quiver on one and not the other?  Grasping at straws here.  

[wingnut]

Clint,

Rather then trimming take a little point weight off.

Mike

[JamesKerr]

I too think you are getting a false stiff because the arrow is bouncing off the riser. I would go with what my bareshafts are telling me. I have never tuned a bow that once I got the bareshafts grouping with the fletched arrows wouldn't shoot a broadhead in the same group as the fletched arrows.

[cacciatore]

What arrow material are you using?
Check if your BH arrow is straight and the BH is alligned correctly.No many reason to act this way.

[Jeff Strubberg]

I think you might be trying to do too much at once.  I would work over the bare shaft/fletched grouping first and get those where you want them, then compare a broadhead to a field point once both are fletched.

Too many variables is gonna land you in trouble.

[CRS]

I agree to tune bareshaft first, then check broadheads.

I have never had a problem with that process.  I also have point weights from 85 to 300 gr.

I can typically walk the bareshafts across the target face.  It is very enlightening, to see the effects of just changing point weight on impact.

[KSdan]

Originally posted by JamesKerr:
 I have never tuned a bow that once I got the bareshafts grouping with the fletched arrows wouldn't shoot a broadhead in the same group as the fletched arrows.

Same for me.  OLs system on bareshaft same as fletched and I never had a problem with a broadhead.  I would do that first then see what the broadhead does.

[calgarychef]

I'd play around a bit with the amount of centershot before trimming arrows-which I hate doing for some weird reason.  The other thing you might try is going back to the old limbs and shooting a bit and see what's happening with the old set up.  Maybe your shooting needs to settle in a bit?

[ozy clint]

arrows are GT 55/75. limbs are exactly the same only 3# heavier. same string material, just one more strand. i can't shoot lighter points. all my broadheads are 250gr.

i trimmed one a little more today and they fly better. it ironed out the flutter they had. they are about half an inch shorter than the old setup.

as you guys say, i will go back to bare shaft and field points and then check broadheads again.

no wonder i'm a one bow, one setup, once i've got it going leave it alone kind of guy!

[calgarychef]

I'm that way too, several years ago they discontinued making the shafts I was using for deer hunting, I scoured the internet buying up old stock to continue using the ones I was used to.

[ozy clint]

hey chef, when you can't find any more you'll have to give up bowhunting. LOL