Which Adhesive?

[Brandon Stahl]

[Kevin Dill]

Yes, double-sided tape can be unpredictable...it may be the precise type used however. In general, I've found that if I can roll the adhesive easily, I might as well not use it. My preferred result is a rest which is hard to get loose...it's tight!

Brandon: This tape is 'tight' and stays? Not too thick?

[Brandon Stahl]

[Charlie Lamb]

Kevin,

I've always used Weldwood Contact cement and never had it fail. Clean slick surfaces well with alcohol and apply a coat of cement, then put at least two coats on porous surfaces.
Clean up takes serious solvents, but I find that most modern finishes are impervious to lacquer thinner and even acetone.

What I've been doing the last few years is gluing my rest material to Duct Tape and then putting in in place. Holds tight, comes off when you need it to and doesn't have clean up issues.

[BOWMARKS]

Barge all the way!!!

[Tater]

Originally posted by Mark Baker:
3-M used to make a two sided tape that you used a gun to apply, where the paper peeled off, and it left the residue....that stuff worked great, but I don't know where to get it anymore. That was years ago....it's not unlike the "booger" stickem stuff that is used in junk mail. If you could find that, you might have something.


   I was at Home Depot recently to pick up some Super Glue and while looking around the rack of adhesives, I found this small packet of double sided adhesive pads. The packet contains 5 1" X 2" rectangles and 10 1" X 3/4" (not absolutely sure on the quantities). This is like the "booger" material that comes in junk mail. I have attached a Seal Skin rest and Beaver tail side plate, they have only been on a little over a week, but seem to be working well.

[Keefer]

I never hunted Alaska but here's what I use cause it works much like Barge and its a clear heavy duty stuff called "Plumbers Goop" I use it on just about every thing like shelf plates rests and handle wraps..I can tell ya if you take a little popsickle stick and spread it to both surfaces and roll it or press it on and let the extra ooze out and set up about 1/2 hr to an hour you can peel the extra off and it feels like a rubber band and adheres very well..It can withstand water cause I use it on many plumbing projects as a backup under a sink drain just for extra measure..It is made to be watertight and really good stuff..It comes in a purple tube about the same size as Barge and I haven't ruined a bow yet with it..They make some called Shoe Goop but feels,smells and bonds the same as the Plumbers goop...I buy it at Lowes for about $4.75 a big tube in the glue/contact cement department...It can be rubbed with a rag to get it off after it dries some if it spears but let it dry first if you go overboard with it and make sure you don't roll or push all the adhesive out...Just another something that is much like Barge to try...Keefers <><

[Ground Hunter]

This is cool!  Good info all around.

[Zbone]

Just now caught this thread...

Back in the day, (late 1980s) Bighorn used to install on their bows and sell, spare leather strike plates and rug rests with a pre adhered adhesive on the back of the leather and rug that would be activated by saturating with acetone then set in place to dry. If I remember correctly, it could then be removed by again saturating with acetone.

Although extremely worn, my original strike plate and rest are still on my Bighorn and after a couple years was so impressed in how well they adhered I ordered a few spares while they were still in business and is mostly what I’ve used since on acquired bows, but now I’m out of spares.

If someone in the know with Mr. Asbell could please enlighten us on how they did such a thing, would be much obliged….

[Gator1]

I wanted to bump this up, as I recently got some sealskin, and am looking for ideas primarily that won't harm the bows finish?

Sounds like the plumbers goop or Weldwood is the way to go?

[Keefer]

Originally posted by Gator1:
I wanted to bump this up, as I recently got some sealskin, and am looking for ideas primarily that won't harm the bows finish?

Sounds like the plumbers goop or Weldwood is the way to go?

Mitch,  Plumbers Goop is about the only thing I can find around here without spending more then $4.75 a tube the Hobby Lobby now carry's Barge but it's  much more like $8.00 and I found Goop works nearly the same and waterproof...  

[Goshawkin]

Weldwood contact cement here too. I use it with great results on all of my archery or falconry leather projects. brush it on both surfaces,let it dry for 15-20 minutes and press them together,done.

[Walt Francis]

Kevin, thanks for the incentive and good luck on the moose.

I have always used Fletch Tite with excellent results. Contact cement for building laminate counter tops (Weldwood is one brand)  has worked well too.  Like the Zwickey broadheads I once tried and the welds kept blowing apart on impact, I must have gotten the cheap variety of barge cement, because the edges of the rests kept coming up every time I used it.

Fletch Tite will be holding the seal skin on the self bow in Alaska this fall.

[Mongo]

Go to an Auto Parts Store and buy some Super Weatherstrip Cement.  It works as good as barge and is half the price.

[Bldtrailer]

This is a great post and should be in HOW TO for future look  ups all great info!

[creekwood]

x14 (I think) barge for me with a seal skin rest and leather sideplate.

[traditionalman]

Barge works great