Author Topic: Arrow flight problems (Read 256 times)

Iowabowhunter · « **on:** March 28, 2012, 02:31:00 PM »

I am shooting full length GT 3555 5.5 in 3 fletch out of Indian recurve. 50 #s at 28 inches, pretty sure my draw length changes, but if I hit my anchor I'm pretty sure I hit 28 inches. Bought 200 grain field points because I want to shoot Simmons Treeshark broadheads. I was being helped at the traditional archery shop shooting bare shafts, and was told the flight was "good enough".....unfortunately after fletching the arrows they still aren't flying real straight, and when I put my broadheads on I'm worried that with the poor flight that is seriously going to hamper penetration! Any suggestions?

Rick Richard · « **Reply #1 on:** March 28, 2012, 02:41:00 PM »

If they were not flying straight for you when bareshafting, then you should not expect them to fly well after fletching. Now, depending on the flight characteristic, either under or over spined then make alterations to the shaft by decreasing length (under spined) or add additional upfront weight if over spined. I like to have the shafts fly a little on the under spined side when bareshafting since adding the fletching and or wraps adds to the spine stiffness.

wv lungbuster · « **Reply #2 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:23:00 PM »

Are RH or LH? How are your arrows flying. Nock right left, high or low?

JimB · « **Reply #3 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:27:00 PM »

If your field point arrows aren't tuned,you not only will lose a ton of penetration but your broadhead arrows won't even impact in the same place as your practice arrows.There is no such thing as good enough,with tuning.

With that arrow spine,length and point weight,your arrows are way weak.If those arrows were cut to 30",you could probably shoot a 145 gr point.Cut to 29",you might be able to shoot a 175 gr.I doubt if 200 grs would work unless you switched to 5575 shafts.

Go to bowmaker.net and read the tuning information and follow it to the letter.

Iowabowhunter · « **Reply #4 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:34:00 PM »

I am right handed, and it seems that it isn't really consistent as far as nock high/low/right or left. I was told to glue in the inserts, so those aren't coming out. I would prefer not to have to strip the fletching off as it cost me about $65 at the shop to get them glued on. I didn't think it would be this difficult to get the arrows to fly straight haha! I am just not comfortable shooting at game with the arrows flying as poorly as they are. It gets kind of discouraging because this will be the 3rd different arrow I have tried and its getting extremely expensive. I have Easton FMJ arrows that I shoot from my compound, but they are too heavily spines to use unfortunately. Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to mess with the tip weight and hopefully that helps, if not I guess I will have to strip the fletching off and cut the arrows a little bit

Iowabowhunter · « **Reply #5 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:47:00 PM »

Thanks Jim, I will definitely do that! This is quite a bit different than tuning my compound, and a lot more fun and frustrating at the same time!

Rick Richard · « **Reply #6 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:00:00 PM »

I know you don't want to spend additional money, but you will have to experiment with the shafts to get them to fly correctly. Bareshaft with the point weight that you desire and go from there. Just remember, point weight does not effect arrow spine near as much as removing shaft length...remove a little at a time from the shaft if it is underspined. Also, you do not have to glue inserts in when bareshafting. Use Saran Wrap or teflon tape on the insert. Once you have acheived correct arrow flight, then you can glue them in place.

Iowabowhunter · « **Reply #7 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:09:00 PM »

How would I keep the inserts in without glueing them in?

Mike Harris · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:13:00 PM »

If you need to remove the inserts after they have been glued in. I have found that a piece of steel rod that will slide freely inside the shafts can be used to knock them out. Take your nock out and use the rod (works best if it is longer that your shaft length), hold the arrow and throw the steel rod towards the back of the insert. Depending on the type of glue you used this should knock them out. Afterwards cut the arrows re-glue with a small drop of super glue and check the arrow flight. Hope this helps!

steadman · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:26:00 PM »

Jacob, i know your going to school, and doing what your supposed to be doing. If you need to strip the arrows, send them to me and I will refletch them free of charge, just let me know what colors you want. So get them bareshafted, and send them this way

Rick Richard · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:30:00 PM »

The Saran Wrap or Teflon tape wrapped around the insert and then pushed into the shaft will provide enough 'sticktion' to keep the insert in place while testing. This only works in most cases when shooting into a bag or soft target.

JimB · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:36:00 PM »

You could get by with only stripping one,if you wanted.As far as the inserts,I think you are going to need to get those arrows cut down to 29" or 30" before you can get any kind of decent point weight.You could knock out the old ones then or install new ones.I think those shafts,full length,might be too weak with 100 gr points.

I would start with a 100 gr point and see if that improves flight,then go from there.

wv lungbuster · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:44:00 PM »

Even if your arrows are not tuned they should still group together. It could be your form. I think the GT 35/55 will work. I would strip the feathers off one shaft and try bare shafting again.

emt137 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2012, 05:01:00 PM »

You mentioned the length of your pull changes and you don't hit your anchor point every time. This would lead me to believe your first step really needs to be perfecting your form and pulling to your anchor everytime.

Doing that will help you immensely when you go to tune arrows. Moebow has a fantastic video showing the importance of form. He shoots several different kinds of arrows (spine, weight, length) out of the same bow and his accuracy is remarkable. Fix your form issues first.

Just my unprofessional opinion.

Pat

Piratkey · « **Reply #14 on:** March 28, 2012, 05:12:00 PM »

Do you check the arrow clearance?

PaddyMac · « **Reply #15 on:** March 28, 2012, 05:13:00 PM »

I'm with JimB. 3555's sound too weak. I'm shooting 31" 5575's out of my 49#@29" recurve and out of my 53#@29 longbow with 175s. And they bare shafted way weak with 200 gr points. Out of my recurve, I see nothing but nock at 20 yards with the 5575's bare shafted. They fly like darts. (Nock high and slightly left on the longbow but they're so accurate fletched I'm not monkeying with it.)

Iowa, the smartest thing you can do is invest in a Bitzenburger, esp. a used one, then fletching and refletching one or two tuning shafts is simple. Rolling your own is the way to go.

Iowabowhunter · « **Reply #16 on:** March 28, 2012, 06:55:00 PM »

How would I keep the inserts in without glueing them in?

critman · « **Reply #17 on:** March 28, 2012, 06:56:00 PM »

I had some of the same problems shooting Easton 40/55 out of a 45# recurve with 100gr brass inserts and 100 tips. Changed over to Gold Tip Traditionals 5575, same tip and insert, they now fly awesome. Grab a couple of stiffer shafts and give it a try.

Iowabowhunter · « **Reply #18 on:** March 28, 2012, 07:45:00 PM »

Sorry for the dbl post, and thanks to everyone who offered their advice. I am going to strip the feathers (any recommendations for doing this the best way) and cut a little bit at a time. Has anybody found a way to keep the nocks in these arrows? Out stumping the other day I had 2 nocks either come out or break :mad:


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