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Glue for GoldTip inserts?

Started by ChopOH, April 21, 2012, 09:16:00 AM

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ChopOH

What's the best glue for installing inserts into my GoldTip arrow shafts?

Doc Nock

You will get a broad range of suggestions based on individual's experience.

I worked at a local large retail archery place...they used the brown hot melt sticks.

What blew me away, was they NEVER cleaned shafts...we didn't have time...folks were stacked up like chord wood so we'd cut them, tap out the dust and warm the insert in a flame w/ pliars and then dip in hot melt and shove in shafts, twist, wipe off excess around lip and pu tin points! Done.

Best part was in 2+ yrs working there, many would take and shoot them RIGHT THERE on the range in 10-15 min of us doing them... the backstop on the range was compressed masonite! Dangest hard to pull arrows backstop I know!

Only ever heard of 2 pull outs of inserts..

I tend to clean mine with a q-tip and alcohol, but none of the sanding or scoring of some.

Each to his own... not the hot glue gun clear sticks, but the brown ones in archery supply places like Tim at Braveheart and others here.
The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Sasquatch LB

Alexander Traditional

I saw this on you-tube,and I haven't had a insert come out yet.  I use a super glue made by gorilla glue

ChopOH

Thanks!  I tried some a few arrows with the brown hot-melt glue, but they pulled right out.  The inserts really were only tight in the last 1/4 inch of their length.  Maybe I just needed more glue???  Maybe GoldTip sent  the wrong size inserts???

mjh

Well I know regular gorilla glue will eventually fail, I've lost several heads and inserts in bales, looking for new glue myself....

Alexander Traditional

I saw one on 3Rivers that was for carbon shafts. It was called ferr-t-lite cool flex. It is one you use with a burner and it's blue in color.

BUCKY

If you NEVER want to take them out again use JB Weld. Don't use the quick set stuff use the regular one.

Stone Knife

I have tried the following, JB weld, slow set epoxy, gorilla glue and Big Jim's hot melt. The only time I have had one fail is if the point hits a rock etc. The hot melt that Big Jim sells is as good as any of the others it's just faster and easier and if you want to change insert weight it reverses easier with heat that all of the others. The key is to rough up the inside of the shaft and then clean the inside of the shaft and the insert with acetone to assure a good bond. If you do your part any of those glues will do theirs.
Proverbs 12:27
The lazy do not roast any game,
but the diligent feed on the riches of the hunt.


John 14:6

bulldog18

I have switched over to bohning's cool flex.So far no failures.
Howard Hill Red Hawk,68" 46@28
Black Widow PCHXS , 58" 42@28
St. Patricks Lake Northern Styk, 68" 44@28
Black Widow PSAXS 60" 46@28
Black Widow PLIII, 64" 47@28
St. Patrick's Lake Northern Styk 68" 44@28

sneakybow

If you are using a hot melt type adhesive there really is no reason to clean the inside of the shafts with acetone or any other cleaner, you can rough it up but any residue left in there just acts like an aggregate in a concrete mix when you put your inserts in. If you clean the shaft with cleaner and a q tip you don't give it as much area to grip and it loses some of its adhesion. If you are using a super-glue type adhesive you can clean and prep to give it a clean surface area to bond to.
Sometimes nothing is a really cool hand.

cacciatore

I have many bows and many different set ups,so I end changing the insert weights pretty often if not daily.
This is the reason I use hot melt,I find it very tough though,having rarely one pulling out.
1993 PBS Regular
Compton
CBA
CSTAS

T-Bowhunter

I have been using the ferr-t-lite cool flex, I have not had a failure
William

JD Berry Valor 66" 45@28
Great Northern Bush Bow 62" 47@28"
Traditional Bowhunters of Florida

David Bartholomew

I've used the JB weld and many other things in the past.  I like the Ferr-t-Lite products (the brown and the blue)the best. Alum., or carbon... no difference. Reason... you can heat up the insert and remove if needed.  Also, if the insert pops out (for whatever reason)... just heat up the insert once again, and push it back in.

I've been using the Ferr-t-Lite cool flex (blue colored, 3" stick glue) for the last year, and this is where I'll stay.

David
WTCS(SW/DV)  USN Retired

koger

Big Jims is the best hot melt I have ever used, nothing else comes close, never had a insert budge while using it.
samuel koger

Reaper TN

I use Gorilla Glue Super Glue Impact Tough Formula. I rough up the inside of my GT's with a .243 bore brush and then clean with some acetone on a q-tip before gluing.
TT Pinnacle II  45# 62"
Hoyt Excel  50# 64"

The Whittler

I'll 2nd Big Jim's. Easy and works great.

Go to his site and view his video on how he does it.

champ38

The Gorilla Super Glue Gel has worked best for me. No shaft prep at all, havnt lost an insert in a long time.
56" Shrew Classic Carbon 68@29
58" 2-P Centaur Cabon Elite 57@29

Dan Adair

I found out today that epoxy only works really good until you hit something hard.  Then it'll tug the insert the next time you shoot a Rinehart 3D target.

So my buddy lent me some Gorilla super glue "impact" formula.  He's been shooting carbons a lot longer than me.

Craig

sneakybow, you hit it right on the nose. I have been using 3 Rivers low heat glue stick since they been selling them and never had one pull out. I never clean a shaft. I do heat the insert first then heat the stick, put some on, not much then heat a little then push right in. dip in water and finish. You can shoot them right away.
Schafer Silvertip


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