I have to detune to tune! WHY???

[Brianlocal3]

I have my bows all shooting well. But in regards to bareshaft tuning I am stumped on one thing. I bareshaft to check for spine and mock height. I get my arrows flying straight to target out to 20 yds. Then I shoot fletched arrows and I'm porpusing all over the place. So then I raise my nock point up 1/8-1/4 " depending on bow and BAM!!!! Perfect arrow flight. Put on my BHs and they are flying like darts. So naturally I don't change anything from there, I am a hunter so my BH flight is my concern, and all 3 of my hunting bows are good to go. But it raises the question, why does this happen? Any ideas? I have 5 bows, 3 are for hunting and all but one I have done this way. The Huron flys bareshaft darts out to 25 yds and shoots fletched well, the rest I "detuned" for fletched arrows. Come on tune masters, I am very curious.

[m midd]

Could be fletching contact.

[ti-guy]

:confused:    

[Brianlocal3]

I'll look into that, thanks

[Axis Thinner]

Hard to say if all three bows are doing it. Why not just skip the whole bare shaft deal and go straight to Bheads?

[m midd]

Ive bareshaft very little. I moslty paper tune. Try shooting cock feather in and see if that helps.

[Looper]

Yeah, your fletching is hitting the riser and throwing it off. Shoot your broadheads and see how they hit with your field tips. If they are hitting low, you might find it better to build up your rest slightly directly under the arrow shaft, leaving a slight gap at the corner of the shelf. That'll give you some fletch clearance.

[Brianlocal3]

So the matchstick under the rug trick? I will do that, I read about it, but never tried.
Axis, BH tuning is all I did for 23 years really, paper and BS tuning is new, but everyone seems to like it ., and most books I've read talk about it so I was giving it a try this year. But when crunch time comes, if I don't have this resolved I'll go back to that for sure

[Looper]

You can use a matchstick, or a toothpick, or add an additional thin strip of leather, whatever works.
Here is a pic of a rest that gives some extra feather clearance. Notice how the rest is a separate piece than the strike plate.
 

[Looper]

BTW, all I do now is broadhead tune. I'll wet the fletch of one of my field tipped arrows just to check the flight every now and then.

[Brianlocal3]

Thanks for the picture. And explanation. I'll look into that

[Hornhead]

what i do is after i fletch the arrow, i give the nock a slight tweak.
so i have the cock feather at 8 o'clock and the other 2 feathers at 12 & 4 o'clock resp.
the fletchings then brush the outside of the rest and the right angle between the rest and the side.
i am right handed btw.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Axis Thinner:
 Why not just skip the whole bare shaft deal and go straight to Bheads?

Like you said in the original post, all you care about is broadhead flight, then tune your hunting setup as if you were hunting.  I don't bare shaft because I don't hunt with bare shafts.  Some guys have an Engineers mentality Nd everything must be perfect, I on the other hand (being a carpenter) as long as I'm on the right jobsite, I'm good to go.  And yes, my broadheads fly like darts.

[Easykeeper]

I'm a bare shaft tuner.  You need to shoot bare and fletched at the same time.  Try shooting three or four fletched shafts and two or three bare shafts into the same group. Shooting bare shafts alone without fletched to compare to all you can do is watch the arrow in flight or how sticks in the target...there really is no reference. Sounds like you were really close though if just a bump of the nock point cleared things up. Bare shaft tuning is touchy, one reason it works so well...

I have read in the past, and it sounds reasonable, that a slightly nock high tune is more forgiving than the "perfect" straight and level that we all try for. The theory is, if I recall correctly, that if you tune so a bare shaft is flying perfectly straight and level on a perfect shot, any non-perfect shots might send the arrow from the bow either nock high or nock low. A bow tuned to shoot slightly nock high from a perfect release will still shoot nock high even with a non-perfect shot. There is still an error and deviation from perfect flight, but the deviation is all in the same direction, i.e., always nock high.

I still like to see my bare shafts in the center of the fletched.  In the end what you want is broadheads and field points hitting the same spot with good arrow flight.  If you are there, don't sweat what you did to get there.

[JamesKerr]

I have never had problems from fletching contact. I think however if your field tips and broadheads are flying true than don't mess with it.

[Brianlocal3]

Regarding the statement made about why it's happening to all my bows. I am the common denominator and I probably don't have the best of form so I was assuming it has to do with my release, I just don't know whats wrong with it to fix. I will try the powder thing this weekend to see if I'm hitting anywhere on the riser and then I going to fiddle with BHs and get them flying with my FPs and again bareshaft to see what it looks like.

[Brianlocal3]

Bebe, thank you for that input. It does and does nt apply, I shoot off the shelve only, but I can change my cusion per'se with different materials and thickness on my riser and shelve.
I did find a flaw in my form tonight while shootimg and BBQing. With the recurve I seem to have a longer natural draw than with my string follow LBs, so I was drawing back farther, by a little, but it was enough to move my string and nick to the right a touch. So my arrow was not lined up under my eye anymore. I out some conscious thought into the anchor at 3yrd bales and got that squared away , so I stepped back to my 30 yd shots and was much more consisten to aim point. Still some wobble in the arrow. I'll play around with it more later. Thanks everyone for the hints.