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Author Topic: Riser repair?  (Read 1270 times)

Offline Benoli

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Riser repair?
« on: August 10, 2007, 12:25:00 AM »
I recently acquired this Bear Tigercat knowing it had a crack in the riser but I was told it was #25 when in fact it is #45. The crack does not seem to change when strung and drawn. I only had it strung for a short while and only drew a couple of times. Is this repairable and what might be the best approach?
 
 
 
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Offline Cupcake

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2007, 12:39:00 AM »
I would try feathering 24 hour epoxy in the whole crack.  It is running parallel to the stress in the riser when drawn so it might be OK.  I am not a bowyer (yet) but it is worth a try.

Offline dorris

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2007, 03:50:00 AM »
i would sat try useing CA super glue and wrappin the grip. looks like its on its way to explodeing
" If I fail trying my hardest did I really fail ? "

Jeff Dorris
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Offline Crooked Stic

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2007, 04:58:00 AM »
Hang it on the wall.
High on Archery.

Offline Earl E. Nov...mber

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2007, 07:29:00 AM »
Looks like the crack was created by some force perpendicular to the normal force of shooting. Like it was stepped on etc.. I think the "Think" super glue might hold it together. Then on the other hand Tiger cats are not very expensive, might be wise to retire it and look elsewhere for a shooter. If you put a slight side force on the bow does the crack open?
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One has died for my soul.

Offline Kindred Mark

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2007, 07:43:00 AM »
retire the bow before it hurts you.  CA or epoxy will not seep deep enough to ensure you maintain good strength in the riser.  That bow is about 5 pulls from becoming a 2 piece IMO.

Mark
Aim Small, Miss Small

Offline Benoli

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2007, 08:06:00 AM »
I can open the crack ever slightly by appplying side force especially if I twist at the same time. A cabinet maker friend suggested a wooden dowel, or two perpendicular to the crack only because the stress of shooting is running parallel to the crack.
One stick, one string and an arrow I'll fling!

Offline Tom Leemans

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2007, 08:20:00 AM »
Retire it
Got wood? - Tom

Offline Larry247

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2007, 09:05:00 AM »
If you don't retire the bow now, it might dangerous! I don't think any glue will save that one's life, I agree with hanging it up...
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Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2007, 09:12:00 AM »
If you just want a bow to shoot and don't care what it looks like I would have to try to save it. I would cut away all the wood from the crack out leaving the glass intact. Next I would start gluing very thin strips in to replace the removed wood and reshape the added wood to the original contours.  

I have done recoveries on worse wood bows, just to see if I could. Of course I make bows which gives me a little knowledge and experience with wood and glue.

I wouldn't take on a fix like that for someone else but I do like fixing my own.

Offline vermonster13

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2007, 09:17:00 AM »
I would post a picture of my left hand to let you see what happens when a bow lets go, but there are children on the site. I would retire it or at the most check out the thread on here where a set of limbs were removed from a one piece and mounted on a new riser.
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Offline d. ward

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2007, 10:06:00 AM »
I would drip loc tite 420 into it.The super glue of super glues (Grainer Hardware about 15.00 18.00 bucks a bottle).Regular super glue will work but not as well.I only use loc tite 420 cause it's real thin.I've repaired about 1,000 (no plug intended)or so bows with it and it works great.The crack will draw the 420 right into it.Keep dripping until it runs out the other side,it's full.Put about 2-3 clamps with only 1 pound or so of presure from side to side.Let it dry for at least 24-48 hrs.That will give the 420 time to dry inbetween.The glue joint should be stronger then the original one peace of wood was.I've had great luck in almost every case when done that way useing the 420.80% of the cracks in the throat of the grip are caused (in recurves and long bows) by stepping thru the bow to string it.(It's getting twisted and bent at the shelf even long bows are because you are pulling the upper limb towards you and not bending it).About 20% or so of shelf cracks are caused by a dry fire,you know like a split noc or broken string.Please guy's always us a bow stringer.Step thru is the worst thing on a bow.Keep me posted.bd

Offline xia_emperor

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2007, 11:02:00 AM »
I saw a bow blow up last night in a guys hands, he's fine. so I would say put on the wall.
“instinctive archery” is more like playing the violin. Without practice you may remember the mechanics, but you will not be a virtuoso.

62" titan riser and samick master limbs 50@28

Offline rbbhunt

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2007, 11:29:00 AM »
I would retire it, but I have repaired low poundage bows with the same crack by forcing some epoxy into the crack and then drilling and counterdrilling a cross hole to put in a screw and nut (don't forget washers) so everything is below the surace of the wood and then epoxy over it.  Acraglas used for glassbedding rifles works well.
RBBHUNT
"Those who will trade liberty for
security, deserve niether" B. Franklin (a long time ago and still valid)

Offline Benoli

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2007, 09:55:00 AM »
Thanks for the ideas and comments. I've not decided exactly what to do yet. It's just a shame to let this bow go unused. I've been looking for some 420 but nobody locally seems to carry it. Anyway thanks again.
One stick, one string and an arrow I'll fling!

Online buckeyebowhunter

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Re: Riser repair?
« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2007, 10:43:00 AM »
I'm sure an experienced bowyer could fix it. But he would have to replace the riser, and charge probably a minimum of $100.

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