Bow tuning with broadheads

[JApple]

Recently made my second set of wood arrows, enjoy the process.  I did some bareshaft  tuning after starting with StuMiller's recs for spine,etc.  The bareshaft seemed to show good spine (remember I'm new at this) and the target points flew great.  The broadheads however started flying all over, "divebombing" at the target.  After adjusting brace height and knock point they are flying much better, but not as true as the fields.  I shoot a Sarrel longbow, 50# at 28, pulling about 54# at 29".  Shooting 65-70 cedar with 125 points, cut to 30.25.  Any advice on better tuning technique would be appreciated.  I'm not sure if the woodies have a little more variability in spine than I would expect or if I need to do a better job bareshaft tuning,etc. I went down from a 70-75 spine with my first set because I like the shorter arrow.. Thanks for the help and advice..

[gringol]

Are you bareshafting the BHs?  I'm not sure if you'll ever get good flight like that.  With perfect form you might, but who has perfect form?  Try fletching one up and shooting a BH.  If you get good flight you're probably ready to go, if not you still aren't quite tuned.

[JApple]

Gringol,  I bareshafted with field only... added broadheads after bareshaft and field point tuning....

[SL]

Where in Texas are you?
Spine sounds about right. You might try a heavier head and see if it improves anything. If you pluck the string on release or drop your bow arm you will really know it with broadheads.
SL

[JApple]

SL,

I'm in Austin, appreciate the input....

[Bonebuster]

Broadheads MUST spin true to the shaft...if the heads wobble when you spin the shaft, they will act like a big wing on the FRONT of the arrow.

I shoot carbon shafts for hunting, but remember that I usually had to overspine wood shafts when shooting broadheads....heck, I had to overspine wood shafts by a big margin even for field points.

Another thing I have learned is a GOOD backstop helps in knowing all the effort and expense in purchasing arrow components would never go to waste, so I could relax and just shoot. Just less to think about for my feeble mind...lol

[Fletcher]

Broadheads are more sensitive to form and tuning and must be mounted spot on straight like Bonebuster said.  You really can't bareshaft with broadheads, but you can paper tune with them just fine.

[JimB]

1.What method did you use to assure the broadhead tips were aligned perfectly?
2.When bare shaft testing with field points,what distances did you shoot?

[KOOK68]

are you bareshafting broadheads? If so, your broadhead is acting like fletching, only in reverse.

[SL]

Japple
if you get down san antonio way give me a call. Ill PM my phone number to you. Im just a bit west of san antonio- 10 miles or so on Ih10. Ive been at this a while and can help. I have an area to shoot also.
SL

[AWPForester]

You are fixing on killing yourself or somebody if you are bareshafting with a broadhead.  All this is point weight and not plucking etc.. is real good advice with fletched arrows, but the best is quit bareshaft tuning with broadheads.  They go everywhere without fletches because of what has been stated above even when tuuned perfect.

Plucking, weak, stiff, or absolutely perfect doesn't really matter as they will never consitently tune without fletchings!  Seriously, I have tried it.  I have read where a high foc will stop this but I don't buy it.  For one I have tried it, but only briefly because I was afraid I was going to kill something or somebody inadvertantly, and I have yet to find those arrows.  Number two, if there isn't a drag on the rear end of that arrow to keep the broadhead from planing, it's going to go whatever direction if happens to be pointing due to that planing.  It simply does not work.

God Bless

[AWPForester]

Disregard my last post as I didn't intially see where you didn''t bare shaft with broadheads.  

Upon seeing that, I'll bet you are weak.  God Bless