Arrow "Feel"?

[greenbear]

Perhaps a different question but along the lines of spine... New bow (55# @ 31") Tried nine different arrows of different spine/weight combos- all unfletched.  Narrowed it down to two.  One arrow feels better out of the bow, but shoots a bit stiff- towards upper limit of front weights available to me without ordering online.  Other arrow shoots straighter (perhaps ever so slightly weak) but doesn't feel quite as nice.  I've run the data and tested many different combos.  Suggestions?  Thanks for your input.

[dragonheart]

Mass arrow weight can effect how the bow recoils and "feels".  Spine vs. the mass weight can make the bow feel dramatically different in certain designs of bows.  I know what I like to feel in the bow when it is shooting primo.

[Bjorn]

So what is the problem with ordering some heavier points etc on line? If it were me I'd go for the one that feels better.

[Bladepeek]

Originally posted by Bjorn:
So what is the problem with ordering some heavier points etc on line? If it were me I'd go for the one that feels better.

X2.

If you want to support your local archery shop (and I try to), but they don't have the points you want, order the minimum number available from an on-line source. If they pan out the way you expect, ask your local dealer to order a dozen or two for you.

[lpcjon2]

Strike plate can be adjusted to compensate for slight spine changes.

[Earl E. Nov...mber]

Can you shorten the weak one a bit (1/2" at a time) to get it right?

Might feel better then too.

[bowhuntingrn]

Are you shooting carbons? If so, how about ordering some brass inserts? Then you can use the lighter points and and still get the stiffer spines tuned. Just a thought.

[greenbear]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I am shooting carbons, do want to support the local shop, but don't have much room to shorten, but will give it a shot.  DL is 31" and arrows are 32.  I guess the brass inserts add a little extra length, and am using those.  Never though of shelf plate.  I'll give them a go.  Thanks all!

[smokin joe]

Try raising your brace height a few twists and see if the one that feels better settles in as the arrow that shoots better too.

[Bowwild]

I've done what lpcjon2 suggests on a couple of bows and it is like "magic" how a tweak of the side plate can matter.

Of course it isn't magic but physics.  My HS physics teacher figured I do better with magic anyway!

[Dave Bulla]

The ones that bareshaft just slightly weak should shoot perfect once you add feathers.  I would NOT cut them until you try that first.

As for the feel, the one you said feels better you said was also at the upper limit of the weight you can add so I am assuming that it is physically the heavier of the two.  THAT can very easily make it feel better when you shoot.  Heavier arrows almost always shoot smoother and less "twangy".  I'd keep the weight up and try heavier and heavier points, inserts, weights etc until it too shoots just barely "weak" bareshafted then fletch it up and enjoy.  To adjust the strike plate for it, you'd have to remove material for it to shoot better.  Like maybe use a thinner piece of leather for the strike plate.

I'd also try shooting the stiffer one from a slightly higher on the string nocking point.  Somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" should be about right but some guys end up very close to 1".  I never do and about 1/2 to 9/16 is my norm but different guys hold the bow different and release differently so all you can do is try it and see.

[AWPForester]

Put fletches on tem and shoot.  Realistically, yoou are not reliably going to be able to ever get the perfect shaftt unfletched shot after shot.  At least that has been my expierence.  God Bless

[greenbear]

The better feeling arrows are in fact heavier- 11 gpi for 300 spine vs. 8.9 for 340 spine.  I went to the local archery shop and purchased the heaviest points they had, but still not what I need to get them straight.  I did fletch a few of each, but need more time to get the front weights to where they need to be.  Thanks so much for the tips.  I have the 340s good enough for now, and may just need more time to get the 300s "perfect".

[Dave Bulla]

FYI, one way to add additional point weight is to use a screw in adapter for a glue on point.  I don't know what the adapter weighs but since it goes completely inside the point and the shaft, it's kinda just tucked away.  You can get glue on points up to about 190 grains and that with the glue in adapter and whatever point weights you have should be quite a lot of weight up front.

What draw weight is your bow?  I've got a gorilla draw too and can't really cut anything off of a carbon arrow at all.  I have a hard time getting them to fly right even with just a brass insert and a 125 grain head.  They still show weak.

Another thing you might do if you REALLY want to get these stiffer and heavier shafts to work is go to a high performance string.  It'll require about 10 to 15 pounds of additional spine over a B50 dacron string.  Most likely though you already have the high perf string.  Seems like not many people use the B50 anymore.  Trad has gone high tech in the string and arrow shaft areas.  I still love my cedars though...