is my arrow set up too stiff?

[deadpool]

im shooting 2 bows between 48-50lb a 28"
I have 2113's cut to 29 1/2" long, 3 4" parabolic feather, with points anywhere fro 100g to 190

I shoot a solid 28"draw length, and  will pull to 29 for the heck of it to see a difference in release.

the nock will kick ether up or diagonally to the left, I assumed my fletching could be to small,

my string nock is fine because it'll shoot my other arrows like lazers.

what am I missing here guys?

thanks,

Christian

[30coupe]

What are your other arrows? If they are smaller diameter, you would need to adjust the nock position accordingly. A 2113 is somewhere in the mid 500s for deflection. That should be somewhere in the ballpark for your bows. I would think at 29.5" it may be on the weak side rather than stiff though. I didn't see the 2113 in easton's chart, so I'm kind of guessing the deflection, but I know I'm pretty close.

Oh, and nock left for a right handed shooter would mean weak. Have you tried paper tuning? I find that to be the quickest way to tune.

Russ

[deadpool]

oh I have it backwards I thought knock left to stiff, now that you mention it though, the other arrows are beeman ics 400s and cx maximas,which are quite smaller diameter than the 2113s,

I never tried paper tuning, I need to look up some instructions for that.

it's too bad i get my 10gpp with the 2113's,

if i have to trade them I wouldn't mind that too much

[30coupe]

I just made a holder out of 1" pvc pipe and tape newspaper to it with duct tape. You can build it for under $5 including a roll of tape. Cut the pvc so you have a 22" x 22" square at the top. I used 2 elbows and 2 tees and 2 5' sections of pipe. You need about 10'. I already had a base with rods for my 3D deer target. If you need to make the base as well, get 2 more tees and another 5' section of pipe. If you want to cap the ends of the base to keep it from rocking that would be okay.

Then tape a piece of newsprint to the frame as tight as you can without tearing it. Put it in front of a bag target for a backstop. Back up 10' or so and using your best form, shoot through the paper with a field point tipped arrow. You should have one hole with three slits coming off of it. You probably won't at first, but that is what you are trying for. If you have two holes or a hole and a tear, you will have to adjust point weight or spine (either by cutting or changing shafts). If your point hole is to the right of your fletching hole, you are stiff. If the point hole is to the left of the fletch hole (nock left) you are weak. Of course you may also need to adjust for nock high/low conditions, which will also show up on the paper.

Do a search here. I'm sure someone has done a better job explaining it, maybe with pictures. I know Rod Jenkins shows how on one of the Masters of the Bare Bow DVDs. I think it was III. I like the instant feedback without having to shoot dozens of shots.

I don't think you will need to trade them. You have some room for cutting and plenty of weights to try. I like 1916s or 2016s if I shoot aluminum. I most often use carbons these days though. I would think 400s would be quite stiff for the bow weight you are using. I have to have from 225 to 310 on my 28.5" 500s for my 46 to 50 pound bows.

I draw right at 28" and with a 28.5" shaft and a 50 grain brass insert, I draw the back of my broadhead to my index finger, kind of like an extra anchor or a silent clicker if you will.

[deadpool]

Thanks coupe!!! Ill look  up! Brb!

[deadpool]

And you would be surprised with the 400s just leave then full length you can go as light as with a 75g head

[screamin]

If the 400's shoot well then the 2113's are to weak. Running the 400's through stu's calculator with the same point weight, feathers etc; compared to the 400's shows the 2113's are 15lbs to weak. Nock left would signify the same.

[deadpool]

The thing with the 400s is im shooting them full length so the spine is weaker.

[screamin]

Originally posted by deadpool:
The thing with the 400s is im shooting them full length so the spine is weaker.

actually, now that I account for the length the 2113's show 2 pounds weaker than the 400's, which shouldn't make all that much difference. It is a thicker shaft and a high left kick might be adjusted out by raising the nock. That might throw off the 400's tho but its worth a try.

How do they all fly bare shaft?

[Benny74]

1.  A trusted advisor at the local bow shop today suggested that brace heights on recurves is very important.  check your brace height and compare it with specs from your bow maker.  be sure it is within spec to start the tuning process.  The general theme is that the longer the BH the more forgiving the bow will be.
My martin dream catcher is 7.25-8 and I have it set at 7 5/8.
2.  run the spine theory calculators on the 3riversarchery site or the other ones they suggest to get within range of where you need to be.  make sure you have absolutely accurate data to plug in.  you will notice that very small increments in data make big changes in results.
3.  be sure your form is proper as that will throw everything off
4.  most suggest test shafts without feathers at 20ft into your target.  in general:  left knock means weak spine, right knock means too strong of a spine, knock high means what it says, your knock is too high.  Remember that there are forces acting on either end of the shaft at any given time.  Adding forces to either end will put more flex into the shaft (weaken).  shortening the shaft makes it more stiff or stronger.  
5.  I have been recently working with a new bow to tune.  The calculators were very accurate in my case and really helped dial it in.  I am still experiencing slight knock high but that is likely from my form and not much else.  The  math assumes we have proper form.  If we do not have proper form then the real world results could be anything and very hard to predict.  What arrow you need might even change from day to day depending on how much variance there is in your shooting style.  I have seen and heard of some very creative setups to compensate for bad shooting habits.  Qualify any advice you get from any source with something verifiable and reliable.  

I shoot a 45#@28 recurve bow too but pulling 29.25".  After significant testing, the 5575 32" 125gr point yields best results.  Dropping to 100gr doesnt seem to yield a stiff spine but it does seem to make the shots less reliable.  My local shop suggested 145gr which works fine too with no noticeable difference.

I hope that helps.