Replacement for HIT insert

[Rick Richard]

I have not had much luck with installing and the alignment of HIT inserts in Easton Axis shafts.  I use the tool provided to seat the insert, but when I install a point they don't spin true.  They wobble and effect arrow flight.

So, what are others experience and is there another insert that can be used other than the HIT insert.

Thanks in advance for your input.

[fz4vgq]

Hmmmm..... I've had great results with the 50/75 gr brass HIT inserts in Beman MFX Classics. Never had an alignment problem and sll spin perfect on a spin gauge.

[Tater]

Never had a problem and I use the standard inserts supplied with the shafts...

[Skipmaster1]

You need to make sure you use the stone provided to level the from to the shaft. I often use a G5 squaring tool. I had some issues until I started doing that. Now they spin great

[fz4vgq]

Yeah, I've always used the G5 squaring tool and chamfered the shaft with the stone/tool provided.

[Bowwild]

I wondered too if you are using the chamfering tool. I haven't had problems with them. The only problem I sometimes have is about 1-2 per dozen seem to get excess glue in the shaft and I have a difficult time getting a field point screwed in (or worse, back out). I've started using a thinner instant insert glue instead of the more viscous exposy provided in the packets.

For a while I was buying 100 grain brass inserts to use insted of the 50/75 inserts that come with the arrows. However, I'm done with that. I was spending $14/dozen extra and not using the inserts that came with. I can make up that extra 25 grains by simple leaving a tad more shaft on the arrow or adding a heavier point.

[Rick Richard]

Help me understand why the chamfering tool or the G5 tool aids in in seat alignment when the insert is embedded down in the shaft by a 1/2 inch or so.

Seems these tools only square off the face

[Bill Carlsen]

Your shafts need to be perfectly square so the points seat themselves solidly and in line. How did you cut the shafts?

[JRY309]

My arrow cutter saw cuts them pretty square,but I still use my G5 squaring tool to make sure everything is square.Never had any problem with the HIT inserts,unless the inside of the shaft is slightly reamed out,the inside of the shaft aligns the point shank.

[Rick Richard]

I use an electric arrow cut off saw. So I know it gets it as square and probably more so than the provided chamfer tool.

Thanks for all the responses.  It looks like most are not having any issues. Oh we'll, I will have to see maybe if it isn't the batch of points that are not machined correctly or something else I am doing.

[Jwilliam]

Never had any trouble with HIT inserts    


Bill

[fz4vgq]

Rick, my understanding is the chamfer tool/stone does not square up the shaft end (thats what the G5 ASD (Arrow Squaring Device)) is for. The chamfer stone puts a chamfer on the inside lip of the arrow for clearance to the field point/broadhead interface as those are usually not machined at a perfect 90 degree angle and it can cause some stress related problems if not chamfered.

All my arrows are cut on a Easton or Apple cutoff saw, As good as they are, sometimes they don't square up the cut end because you're starting with the arrow at a slight angle because of the cutoff disk. It doesn't take much to introduce some stress when the point is tightened down. The G5 ASD ensures it's as square as possible. I've used one for years after having problems with standard aluminum inserts in aluminum arrows... I'd square the shaft before glueing in the insert then I'd square the insert once it was glued into the arrow. Perfect point spin with no wobble.

[ishoot4thrills]

I use Beman MFX arrows with HIT inserts and never had a problem with squareness.

Have you ever used heat in any way at the point end of the shafts?

I know some people use hot melt to install their inserts which means heating the point to some degree which can cause the tip of the shaft to bend ever so slightly.

I NEVER use any heat whatsoever in any way anywhere near my carbon shafting. I learned long ago that even heating the point on a carbon shaft can and will warp the very end of the arrow. I only use epoxy and I learn to accept the insert that I have chosen to install.

[Oliverstacy]

Originally posted by fz4vgq:
Yeah, I've always used the G5 squaring tool and chamfered the shaft with the stone/tool provided.

Another vote for the G5 tool...picked one up that was on clearance, some of the best money I've spent!

Thanks,

Josh

[Orion]

The HIT system is about as foolproof as you can get. Your problem isn't with the inserts. It's not even with screw in field points.  Even if your shaft isn't squared on the end, the screw in points are self-centering, as are the adaptors on which you glue on points.  Your problem is the glue on points on the adaptors.  You, or whoever you got the points from, didn't get the points on straight on the adaptors. Heat them up and straighten them.

[Rick Richard]

Orion, there are no adapters. Screwed in points into the insert.

[Orion]

The screw in points is self centering on the inside of the shaft.  They can't be crooked.  An uneven end on the shaft will cause it to break easier, but it will not change the alignment of the point. Now, if the point is turned over on the end, or the point itself is not centered, it will cause the arrow to wobble when you spin it.  The problem may be in your points.  If you have any different screw in points, try them. If the insert isn't fully seated into the shaft such that the point shaft isn't fully enclosed within the arrow shaft, that could result in the point being on crooked. The only other explanation is a crooked shaft, and axis shafts are supposedly straight to .003.  Well, if the nock is on crooked, it will make a straight shaft look crooked when it's spun.    I
assume when you say spin the arrow, you're spinning it like a top on a hard surface.  If you're saying it's wobbling when you shoot it, that brings in a whole nother set of possibilities.

Might you have some pictures you can show us.

[Rick Richard]

No pictures, but when I spin them by the point on a table top they wobble.

[Bill Carlsen]

I've had the shank of the point bend ever so slightly on hard hits. Make sure the shank of the point is not bent. Aluminum broadhead adapters are very "good" at bending and if your practice points are mounted on aluminum adapters that is where I would look. I would also try spinning the same points on a different arrow shaft, say a good aluminum. That could tell you if  the points themselves have a problem.