There are a lot of factors to consider when tuning an arrow to a bow, and many different methods.... but all of them require a consistent anchor point, and a good clean release.
Changing from using a compound bow with a lighter holding weight, using a mechanical release aid, to a trad bow using fingers, can be one of the most humbling things you've ever done in your life..... it can also be one of the most satisfying experiences you've ever done.... but it's going to take a LOT more practice, and lots of patience.
I would recommend not overwhelming yourself with bare shaft tuning, or paper tuning suggestions until you've spent enough time getting good consistent shooting abilities established.
Get up to about 12-15 yards and work on your form with what ever arrows you have. if you can find another archer to shoot with you and watch you, it helps pinpoint irregular draw length, creeping, and alignment issues which all effect arrow flight.
once you start grouping your arrows consistently, a pattern will show...THEN it's time to make some fine tuning adjustments to your arrows.... now if they are flying really bad right now, there are 2 basic things to adjust. your string nock will adjust porpoising up and down. and your tail waging from side to side can be adjusted with tip weight, and adding more material to your strike plate.
If you go out on a rifle range to sight in your 30-06. you need to shoot well enough to form a group of 3 to 4 shots before you adjust your sights..... same theory applies to arrow tuning.
2016 aluminum shafts would be a good economical place to start. i'd say start at 30" length 145 grain points and get you form established. then fine tune from there... Kirk